Tropical Twist Hat

Tropical Twist Hat

First off, I have to say it: I've been having a great time taking my knitting photos in my yard, even if my neighbors now think I'm nuts (and they definitely do). But I don't care, because the Tropical Twist Hat looks great out in the wild. Sure, it's nothing fancy - just some alternating cables - but it's a nice, clean, unisex design that takes variegation well. And sometimes, that's all you need!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Hand Painted Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9859 Tropical Punch - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 6, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 6, and one cable needle (cn) or dpn for cabling (or you can always cable without a needle, if you'd prefer)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

So let's make a hat! First, then, using your circular needle, cast on 120 stitches, place marker, and join in round. If you want to get really fancy, you could knit the first five or six rows in a smaller gauge needle to create a tighter brim, but it's certainly not necessary. Either way you do it, we'll get straight to the main pattern, after a little notation as follows:

front cross (fc): slip 2 stitches to your cn and hold in front; k2; k2 from cn

left twist (lt): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

And now that we've covered that, let's get to it!

Rows 1 & 2: * p1, k4, p2, k4, p1; rep from *

Row 3: * p1, k4, p2, fc, p1 *

Rows 4 - 8: * p1, k4, p2, k4, p1 *

Pollyanna Purse

Pollyanna Purse

I've been itching to do another bag ever since I finished the Funner Summer Beach Bag, in large part because I've been bursting with design ideas. And I'm pleased to report that the Pollyanna Purse represents many of them, including faux i-cord edgings in both the strap and the sides and a seamless design. Long story short, it's both sturdy and cute and a reasonably easy knit despite its kinda-fancy design features.

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 120 yards [109 meters]/70.9 grams); #01215 Robin's Egg - 2 skeins (color A), and #01322 Lilac - 1 skein (color B)

A closer picture of the front middle of the purse.
That's a thing, right? The "front middle"?

Needles: One 24" or longer circular needle in size US 7, one set of straight needles, also in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7, as well as size US 9 or 10 needles for provisional cast on

Notions: Tapestry needle, 6 stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's get started! First, then, let's discuss the structure of this bag - you'll begin by knitting the bottom of the bag & strap (which are connected in a continuous loop). Once that's done, you'll pick up stitches along the edges to create the sides of the bag. So with that in mind, using your larger needle, a provisional cast on, and your color B yarn, cast on 23 stitches loosely. Transfer work to your size 7 straight needles, and then continue as follows:

Row 1 (right side): using color B, knit

Row 2: using color B, k1, slip 3 stitches with yarn in front (wyif), p15, slip 3 wyif, k1

Stripes & Diamonds Scarf

Stripes & Diamonds Scarf

Right now you're probably wondering if I've gone crazy - after all, I went from making zero scarves to making two in, like, a month. But I couldn't help myself; once I realized that I could make a slipped stitch, two-color number with a quick enough color change that I wouldn't have to cut my yarn ends for each stripe, I simply had to do it. The result, of course, is the Stripes & Diamonds Scarf, which employs a basic garter edging and a slipped stitch color pattern in the center for a lovely and very graphic effect that won't leave you cursing a bajillion ends when you're done.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3736 Ice - one skein (color A), #3727 Sky Blue - one skein (color B)

The diamond motif

Needles: Straight needles in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get this scarf party started! First, then, using your color A yarn and your size 5 needles, cast on 31 stitches. Then knit the following set-up row:

Set-up Row: using color A, knit

Knit this set-up row 6 times (yes, this is just six rows of garter stitch). And now that that's done, we'll begin our main pattern, which is a strip of Stripes and Diamonds from page 70 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, as well as some garter stitch. As a side note, the pattern might look long, but it's super easy to remember. So let's proceed as follows:

Row 1 (right side): using color B, k15, slip 1 stitch with yarn in back (wyib), k15

Row 2: using color B, k10, p5, slip 1 wyif, p5, k10

Honey Cowl

Honey Cowl

I know summer hasn't even technically begun yet, but I figure there are at least a few of you who are already planning for fall. With that in mind, the Honey Cowl is made from a worsted-weight cotton-mix yarn and worked on large needles to give it a little bit more of a relaxed appearance. And while it might be difficult to tell from the pictures, the basketweave pattern that I've chosen for the main design is also a mesh, which gives this design a very unique look. Long story short, this cuddly cowl is perfect for the shoulder seasons, and would work well in most cotton- or acrylic-based worsted weight yarns!

Yarn: Berroco Remix (30% Nylon, 27% Cotton, 24% Acrylic, 10% Silk, 9% Linen; 216 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3953 Burnt Orange - one skein

A closeup of the basketweave.
Plus some really terrible lighting.
Apologies.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 10.5 (there are a lot of stitches to begin with, so if you don't like knitting on full circulars you might want to start with a 24" or a 20" instead), cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles

So let's get started! First, then, cast on 119 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then, we'll knit a marker placement/set-up row, as follows:

Marker Placement Row: p16, place marker, p1, k8, p1, place marker, p67, place marker, p1, k8, p1, place marker, purl until end of round

And now, we'll begin incorporating our main pattern, which is Open Basketweave Mesh from page 252 of Barbara G. Walker's Charted Knitting Designs: A Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns, a cable, and some decreases. Oh, and we'll need the following notation:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

bc (back cross): slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

fc (front cross): slip next 2 stitch to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

And now that that's out of the way, let's proceed as follows:

Floral Mesh Bonnet

Floral Mesh Bonnet

I can proudly state that this is my first-ever matching product; in fact, it goes with last week's design, the Floral Mesh Scarf. And while I haven't ever used the same stitch pattern week-to-week before, I just couldn't resist with this one since, as soon as I saw the scarf completed, I knew it had to have a bonnet. I also sized it for children through adults for a super-fun, multi-seasonal look that will fit most everyone in your family. Why? Well, 'cause they're all going to want one!

Sizes: Child's Small (Child's Large; Teen/Adult Small; Adult Large) (as far as the child's small and the child's large are concerned - think maybe 2 - 5 years for the small, 6 - 12 or so for the large)

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Pantino (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic; 98 yards [90 meters]/50 grams); #0007 Egg Yolk (that color name is still made up) - 2 skeins

A close-up of the pattern.
I left in the creepy eyes because I could.

Needles: Straight needles in size US 5, 16" circular needle in size US 5, and one set of dpns, also in size 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches

So let's make a hat, shall we? First, then, we'll start with the brim of this bonnet, which is knit back and forth. So, using your straight needles, cast on 84 (98; 112; 126) stitches loosely. Then we'll knit a few edging rows, as follows. Notice you'll be placing two stitch markers on your third edging row.

Edging Row 1 (right side): purl

Edging Row 2: knit

Floral Mesh Scarf

Floral Mesh Scarf

I hope you all are holding onto your butts, because this week's post is a big one! Well, that may be overstating things, but since this purty little number is only my second scarf I feel like it should receive some recognition. And even if it doesn't, I should also mention that it has a fun-to-knit and relatively quick-to-learn lace pattern that pops beautifully, and that its shape features tapered ends so it's a bit more of a challenge than just a rectangle. Basically, this bad little mamma jamma would make a nice addition to your scarf collection, or a lovely gift.

* As of November 25, 2015, I have added a second chart to correspond better with the given row numbers. You can find it right below the first!

You also have two choices for a matching hat: the Floral Mesh Bonnet, or the Floral Mesh Beanie!

Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Pantino (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic; 98 yards [90 meters]/50 grams); #0007 Egg Yolk (I made up that color name) - 3 - 4 skeins, depending on finished length

A close up of the pattern
and the decrease end of the scarf

Needles: Straight needles in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches

So let's make a scarf, people! First, then, I should mention that I actually charted this pattern, so you can find it down at the bottom. Also, since I charted the cast on, the pattern, and the decrease, you could knit almost exclusively from that (except I didn't chart the wrong side rows. The edge of the scarf has two stitches in garter - otherwise, the whole back is purled). Of course, I'll also spell things out. With that in mind, cast on 5 stitches loosely. Then we'll work some set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): k2, purl until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2

Set-up Row 2: k2, m1l, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, m1r, k2 (+2 stitches)

Knit set-up rows 1 & 2 until you have 13 stitches on your needle and you've just completed row 1 of the pattern. Now we're going to begin working in some of our pattern, which is Floral Mesh from page 218 of Barbara G. Walker's A Fourth Treasury of Knitting Patterns, as follows:

Set-up Row 3 (right side): k2, m1l, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, m1r, k2 (15 stitches)

Set-up Row 4 and all wrong-side rows: k2, purl until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2

Set-up Row 5: k2, m1l, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, m1r, k2 (17 stitches)

Funner Summer Beach Bag

Funner Summer Beach Bag

Yeah, I know "funner" isn't a word. But my kids don't, and that was the inspiration for this brightly striped, cleverly constructed (in my opinion, at least!) bag. Designed seamlessly with faux i-cords for structure and a fun lace pattern, this is one of the sturdier and prettier knit bags you'll find. Knit it, and you'll make your summer more fun. Or, you know, go to the water slides or something like that instead. Your call. :)

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Whitney (91% Cotton, 9% Nylon; 87 yards [89 meters]/50 grams); #1001 Natural - three skeins (color A), #1009 Cranberry - two skeins (color B)

The lace pattern. So purty!

Needles: One set of double pointed needles in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, 9 stitch markers

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches 

So let's make a bag! First, then, I should mention that any time you're slipping stitches in this bag, you're pulling the yarn tight behind them. This will help to create that faux i-cord rib, and the edges of the strap. I should also mention that this bag is worked bottom-up. So with that in mind, using your color A yarn and your dpns, cast on 8 stitches loosely, divide evenly between four dpns, and join in round. Then we'll work a few set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1: using color A, * p1, m1r, p1; rep from * (+4 stitches)

Set-up Row 2: using color A, * p1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1 *

Set-up Row 3: using color A, * p1, m1r, k1, m1l, p1 * (+8 stitches)

Once these three set-up rows are done, we'll knit a marker placement row, as follows:

Butterfly Eyelet Hat

Butterfly Eyelet Hat

As a woman who has had short hair the majority of her life, I rarely find myself needing a very slouchy hat (and thus often design beanies). But sometimes I remember that the rest of you may very well have crazy, messy, big hair that needs a big ol' hat to go on top of it. And that's why I designed the Butterfly Eyelet Hat, which has enough stretch and length to fit over a long, luscious 'do (or just to accent a short one). Anyway, if there's anyone out there who likes the pattern but would prefer a snugger fit to their hat, just hit me up in the comments and we'll see what we can do!

Yarn: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1940 Peach – one skein (color A) and #910A Winter White - one skein (color B)

The pattern. Cute little eyelets, eh?

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

So let's make a hat! First, then, using your size 5 needle and your color A yarn, cast on 112 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following ribbing row to get started:

Ribbing Row: using color A, * k2, p2; rep from *

Cherry Blossom Cowl

Cherry Blossom Cowl

Holy moly. It's been a bit of a stressful morning; not only was the baby unwilling to eat or sleep, but he also spent an hour or two screaming nonstop. Finally, after carrying him around and trying to make him happy all morning, I needed some lunch, so I heated up some pizza. And despite the fact that he had rejected cereal, strawberries, and a squish bag full of baby food, he went DOWNTOWN on the pizza, and now he's happy as a clam. Clearly, he needs to learn how to talk.

And speaking of talking, I should say a word about this piece! First, the name - it's a late spring here in Wisconsin, and the cherry trees are spreading those delightful, pale pink blossoms that I love so much. The color of this cowl and the bobbles reminded me of them. And yes, you're right - it is my first time knitting bobbles! Turns out it's not so hard. So if you haven't done it before, this lovely, lightweight piece is a great place to start!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sateen (100% Acrylic; 300.7 yards [275 meters]/100 grams); #7 Ballerina Pink - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches

Anyway, let's get started! First, then, we'll cast on 152 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. As a note, this piece will be fitting pretty close to the head (my finished piece is about 20" in circumference, unstretched). And while I have no trouble getting it over my 22" noggin, you may want to cast on a few extra stitches if you have a larger head. Just let me know if you need help modifying the pattern! Anyway, let's continue. It's time to knit the following set-up row, to get started:

Set-up Row: p21, place marker, p110, place marker, purl until end of round

And once this bad boy is out of the way, it's time to begin on our main pattern, which incorporates a large section of Field of Wheat from page 278 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and some decreases, since I am obsessed with a nicely-shaped cowl. Anyway, to continue, you'll need the following notation:

mb (make bobble): (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in one stitch, which will turn one stitch into five; turn and k5; turn and p5; turn and k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1; turn and p3tog, which completes bobble. When you reach this stitch again on the following row, knit through the back loop of the bobble stitch rather than the front loop. 

And now that that's out of the way, let's get knitting!

Cute & Cabled Baby Bib

Cute & Cabled Baby Bib

I have had this yarn in my stash for an embarrassingly long time - I bought it over a year ago with the intention of turning it into a cowl, and then promptly forgot about it. When I ran across it at the end of a hectic week, however, I realized that it would be perfect for a quick-knitting project like this one. So I conceived of the Cute & Cabled Baby Bib, which is thick, cute, detailed but not too difficult to knit, and works up in a snap. Also, I'm pretty sure you could get two bibs out of one skein, although I haven't tried it (yet).

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Jeannee Chunky (51% Cotton, 49% Acrylic; 106 yards [97 meters]/100 grams); #10 Blue - one skein

A close-up of the side detail.
After a long debate, I used
decreases for shaping
instead of short rows.

Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 10 and two double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 10, for working the i-cord ties

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches 

So let's make a bib! First of all, then, using your size 10 needles, cast on 29 stitches loosely. Then, we'll knit the following two set-up rows: 

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): knit

Set-up Row 2: p9, place marker, p11, place marker, purl until end of row 

And once those rows are done, it's time to begin our pattern, which includes some shaping and also a strip of "Opening" Double Cable from page 113 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. At any rate, we'll be continuing like so:

Row 1 (wrong side): purl until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, p7, k2, slip marker, purl until end of row

Feathered Arrow Headband

Feathered Arrow Headband

One of knitting's greatest challenges (in my opinion, at least) is finding a good way to use your yarn scraps. I never have the heart to throw them away, after all, and then I never have quite enough yarn to do anything really spectacular with my leftovers. Luckily, the humble headband can be a great solution to this problem - quick, fun, and gratifying to knit, they're also highly wearable and a great gift. Case in point: the Feathered Arrow Headband, which uses less than 50 yards of yarn and is easy to customize for teens to adults.

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure New Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #202 (Cream) - one skein

The pattern.
Subtle, but niiiiice.

Needles: straight needles in size US 8, straight needles in size US 10 (for provisional cast-on)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

So let's make a headband! First, then, using your size 10 needles and a provisional cast on, cast on 17 stitches loosely. Then, we'll move straight to our size US 8 needles and our main pattern, which is Expanded Feather Pattern from page 194 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Sea & Shore Cowl

Sea & Shore Cowl

When I first started knitting this piece, it seemed very timely; the tulips were starting to bloom, and the weather was finally heating up. I even took the flannel sheets off my bed. Of course, every action has an equal and opposite reaction, so now it's freaking snowing. Before I start complaining about the cold spring, however, I should mention some important stuff - mainly, that this cowl is worked in two colors of sock weight yarn on size US 5 needles to give it extra airiness. Because the warm weather will arrive eventually, right?

Yarn: Schachenmayr Original Egypto Cotton (100% Cotton; 197 yards [180 meters]/50 grams); #00174 Leaf Green - one skein (color A) and #00166 Mint - one skein (color B)

A close up of the piece

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches on size 2 needles 

So let's do this thing! First, then, using your color A yarn, cast on 183 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit a couple of set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1: using color A, p16, place marker, p152 (or until there are 15 stitches left in round), place marker, and purl until end of round

Spring Shadows Hat

Spring Shadows Hat

Well, what can I say about this hat? First and foremost, I guess, Malabrigo still makes a damn fine yarn. And with that out of the way, I should also mention that this hat has more openwork than it might initially appear - basically, all of the stuff between the braids is mesh. So it's a great change-of-seasons number, if I do say so myself.

Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool ; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #875 Arapey - one skein

A braid, and some nice mesh.
In short, a lovely spring hat!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 9, one 16" circular needle in size US 10.5, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 10.5, and a cable needle (cn), or dpn for cabling

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches on size 10.5 needles

So let's make a hat! First, then, using your size 9 needle, cast on 65 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit some edging rows, as follows:

Edging Row: * (p1, k1) four times, p1, k2, p1, k1; rep from *

Knit this edging row until piece measures just over 1". Then we'll knit the following transition row:

Nom Nom Garter Hat

Nom Nom Garter Hat

You may be wondering why this thing is called the Nom Nom Garter Hat. The answer to that question is simple - it's because it will eat up your yarn scraps like "nom nom nom!" Before we get started, however, I should tell you a couple of things - first of all, you need roughly 50 yards each of your two main colors in order to get this hat going. Provided you have that, you can do your accent colors with quite small amounts of any worsted- or dk-weight yarns (or smaller, if you hold two strands together!). Also, I wrote my color combination out here so that you could make the hat with the exact same color scheme, if you wanted. Please, however, feel free to ignore my accent coloring (colors C - J), and do your own instead! If you choose to do this, however, you'll definitely want to pay attention to the length of the stockinette stripe on this hat - it is a better indication of the finished length than the garter stitch. To make the color pop, after all, you'll be blocking the snot out of this thing, and the garter will stretch a LOT.

Oh, and last but not least - I designed this hat back-and-forth, both for my peeps who avoid circular knitting, and because that's the only way to truly take advantage of the garter stitch. If you need help converting the pattern for circular knitting, just ask!

Sizes: Adult Small (Adult Large)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1948 Mystic Purple - one skein (color A), #908 Magenta - one skein (color B) & various scrap yarns in worsted & dk weights (colors C - J) - roughly 50 yards total

This is how I kept my colors straight!
My children thought I was working on a cool
art project, at least.

Needles: straight needles in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette, 16 stitches = 4 inches in garter

So let's get started! First, then, using your color A yarn, cast on 82 (90) stitches. Then we'll work the edging rows like so:

Row 1: using color A, p3, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, p3

Row 2: using color C, knit

Bricklayer's Lace Baby Blanket

Bricklayer's Lace Baby Blanket

The story behind this project is simple: I've reached the age where my friends are starting to have babies, so I've started to knit baby blankets. Therefore, as soon as I knew a friend was pregnant, I began looking for the right fiber at my local yarn store. And I passed this one by for months and months before I finally saw it knit up, and loved the way the stitches looked like rain drops. So I brought it home and found this lovely stitch pattern, which shows off both the yarn and the pattern. And it's a quick knit, since it's chunky and all!

Yarn: James C. Brett Flutterby (100% Supersoft Polyester; 192 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #B3 Blue - 3 skeins

The pattern. For all the bricklaying
babies out there.

Needles: 32" or longer circular needle in size US 10

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 11 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Okay dudes, are you ready to make a baby blanket? Then let's get started! First, cast on 96 stitches loosely. And then we'll knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): knit

Set-up Row 2: knit

Set-up Row 3: knit

Set-up Row 4: knit

Pretty in Pink Cowl

Pretty in Pink Cowl

I've been staring at this page for a while now, trying to figure out what to say about this pattern. The problem, of course, is that I can only think of one thing - namely, that I'm super pleased by how well this little turkey turned out. It's light, it's springy, it drapes beautifully, and my baby CANNOT STOP GRABBING IT whenever I put it on (what can I say? The kid's got taste). It's also a very versatile piece, and looks good with anything from a flannel to a tank top and jeans. Just make sure to make it in a neutral-ish color, 'cause you're going to want to wear it every dang day.

Sizes: Small (Large) - fyi, the only difference in these two patterns will be the number of stitches in your cast on and the marker placement row. Also, the only reason I'm offering two sizes is based on head size - you're going to want this thing to fit snug up against your neck, and you're going to want the small if you have a smaller head, the large if you have a larger head.

Yarn: Berroco Folio (65% Superfine Alpaca, 35% Rayon; 219 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #4524 Bailey - 1 skein

A closer pic of the lace

Needles: 16" circular needle in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, five stitch markers

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's do this! First, cast on 142 (152) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following marker placement row:

Marker Placement Row: k35 (k40), place marker, k19, place marker, k34, place marker, k19, place marker, knit until end of round

And once that's done, begin to incorporate Miniature Leaf Pattern from page 215 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, which goes like so:

Beauty of a Basketweave Hat

Beauty of a Basketweave Hat

Recently, AllFreeKnitting offered me the opportunity to review this yarn, Brown Sheep Company's Lanaloft, and design an exclusive pattern for their site. And obviously, since I'm only human (and cannot resist the thought of receiving yarn IN THE MAIL like it's freaking magic), I jumped at the chance. For now, you'll have to visit their site to find the pattern, though. You can find more pictures and the link below. :)

Yarn: Brown Sheep Company, Inc. Lanaloft (100% Wool; 160 yards [146 meters]/100 grams); LL83W Victorious Violet – 1 skein

That, my friends, is a basketweave.

Needles: one 16” circular needle in size US 7, one 16” circular needle in size US 8, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 8

Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size US 8 needles

As promised, then, you can find the rest of the pattern here. Make it, and be merry!

Minky Mittens

Minky Mittens

I've been plotting another pair of mittens for awhile now. In fact, I've been plotting them for so long that I didn't manage to complete them until our first spring-ish week here in Wisconsin (oops). While my timing is terrible, however, these mittens are not; made with a slip stitch color pattern, they are thick and warm, and can be sized from toddlers to adults. Now I just have to hope my kids don't grow out of them before next winter...

Sizes: Toddler (Child Small; Child Medium; Child Large/Adult Small; Adult Medium; Adult Large)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #1946 Silver Grey - one skein (color A), #810 Teal - one skein (color B for the toddler sized mittens) & #9863 Spring Meadow - one skein (color B for the children's small mittens)

The pattern. Plus an eye! Notice how the variegated color B
yarn changes the look of the mitten.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's do this thang! Using your size 5 needles and your color A yarn, cast on 30 (34; 36; 40; 44; 48) stitches and divide evenly between 3 dpns. Join in round. Then knit the following ribbing row:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1.5" (1.5"; 1.75"; 2.25"; 2.25"; 2.5"). Then switch to your size 7 needles and knit one row around, still in your color A yarn. And once that's done, we'll work a few more rows before we gusset in the thumb, as follows:

How to Make a Yarn Tassel

So here's the thing - tassels are an excellent flourish for many knit projects, and can take a hat or a scarf from "blah" to "bam!" They're also very easy to make by following the steps below.

1. Cut a rectangle of cardboard. The height should be at least as long as you want your tassel (you can always trim the ends; you can’t make ‘em grow!), and it should be wide enough to fold in half easily.

Diana's Cowl

Diana's Cowl

The story behind this cowl is simple: a lovely friend sent me a wonderful Galentine's Day package, and I wanted to reciprocate with a knit good (or a good knit! See what I did there? Yes, I'll show myself out...). Anyway, she gave me the item and the color, and I designed something that (I hope) will suit her perfectly. And while this particular item is made extra-scrumptious by the alpaca yarn, I think a cotton or silk would also suit it well.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pure Alpaca (100% Baby Alpaca; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3003 Ruby - one skein

The pattern. It's got holes!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's do this! First, cast on 91 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following marker placement row:

Marker Placement Row: k1, (p1, k1) 17 times, place marker, k21, place marker, k1, * p1, k1; rep from * until end of round

And now we'll move on to a few edging rows that begin to use our pattern, which incorporates a strip of Double Herringbone Mesh from page 301 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Edging Row 1: p1, * k1, p1 * until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, (yo, ssk) 3 times, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, (yo, k2tog) 4 times, yo, k2, slip marker, p1, * k1, p1 *

Edging Row 2: k1, * p1, k1 * until you reach first marker, slip marker, knit until next marker, slip marker, k1, * p1, k1 *

Lace Cable Fingerless Gloves

Lace Cable Fingerless Gloves

First and foremost: I highly recommend against viewing these photos larger. We are in the middle of a cold, dry winter here in Wisconsin, and my hands are SCARY. Luckily, not everything is quite so terrifying. And that includes these gloves, which are designed and knit on straight needles for all of my dpn-despising peeps. Of course, if one of my dpn-loving peeps wants to see this pattern adapted for the round, just hit me up in the comments and I'll help you out too!

Sizes: small (medium; large) (the small will fit a hand roughly 7" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb, the medium a hand about 8" - 9", and the large 9" +)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9461 Lime Heather - one skein

A close up of the pattern.
Leafy, no?

Needles: One set of needles in size US 7, one set of needles in size US 5, one cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles

So let's get started! We're going to work our two gloves a teensy weensy bit differently (the cables will be reversed). So, for the first one, you'll start by using your size 5 needles, and casting on 38 (42; 46) stitches loosely. Then we'll work the following ribbing rows, which will be the same for all sizes:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from *

Iris Bloom Bonnet

Iris Bloom Bonnet

First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn. And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight needles. Both begin in the same way, below. 

Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments below. :)

Update February 22, 2021: For some reason, the comments no longer seem to work on this post. Please email me with any questions at ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com.

Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein

This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!"
My kids would be so embarrassed.

Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 5, one set of straight needles in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7 (if you're knitting it entirely on straight needles, you don't need the circulars or dpns)

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows:

Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from *

Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 * 

Simple Eyelet Cowl

 

Simple Eyelet Cowl

I bought this yarn quite some time ago, on sale at the local yarn store. And I've been staring at it ever since, trying to find a way to show off the delicacy of the yarn in a compelling manner. Finally, I settled on this simple eyelet design, which brings a touch of class to a basic style. And while I don't have much else to say about the piece, I should mention - it was while knitting this item that I finally taught myself to hold the yarn continental style. The learning curve threw off my gauge, so I didn't get quite what the yarn package predicts. It's not a big deal, of course, just something to note if you're going to use the exact same fiber.

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Peruvian wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #1214 Steel Cut Oats - one skein

The eyelets

Needles: One 20" or 24" circular needle in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 26 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 2 needles

So let's do this thing! First, cast on 162 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 4: purl

Set-up Row 5: p80, place marker, purl until end of round

And once those are done, we'll move on to the main pattern, which is Simple Eyelet Pattern from page 168 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. And we'll proceed as follows: