Rainbow Baby Wrap

Rainbow Baby Wrap

First off - yes, I bought this yarn last March and I have absolutely no excuse for why it took me so long to work it up - except for the fact that it was SO DANG PRETTY that I worried I wouldn't do it justice, of course! Luckily, I think the Rainbow Baby Wrap is a perfect vehicle for your own similarly pretty yarns - and to make it, all you'll need is roughly 100 grams of fingering/sock weight yarn of your main color and another 20 apiece of your accents (I used a set of minis for this purpose!). Oh, and yes - it is also named after a Kesha song, which I suggest listening to now, for mood (if you don't mind a little bit of swearing and a whole lotta [tasteful-ish] inner side boob, that is)...

Finished Dimensions: roughly 10.5" at widest point and 48" end to end, excluding i-cords

Yarn: Skein Queen Wriggle (100% Superwash Merino; 400 yards [366 meters]/100 grams); Pink - one skein (color A) and Skein Queen Little Wrigglers (100% Superwash Merino; 5 x {80 yards [73 meters]/20 grams}); Pink & White - one mini skein (color B), Yellow - one mini skein (color C), Pink & Yellow - one mini skein (color D), Pink & Purple - one mini skein (color E), and Pink & Orange - one mini skein (color F)

Don't you just wanna eat that
delicious yarn???

Needles: One 32" or longer circular needle in size US 4, two or three double pointed needles (dpns), preferably 2 in size US 3 and 1 in size US 5, although 2 dpns in size US 4 will also work instead

Notions: tapestry needle, 5' of scrap yarn (preferably cotton), 7 stitch markers

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches on size US 4 needles

So let's make a wrap! Using your size US 3 dpns (or your 4s if you don't have 3s), then, cast on 4 stitches and work them in an i-cord until the i-cord measures roughly 12". Then, we'll start casting stitches on as we continue to work the i-cord, as follows:

I-cord Cast On: kfb, k3; then, when you go to begin your next row, use your tapestry needle to thread the first of kfb stitches onto your scrap yarn purlwise to hold for later

Frost on the Windowpane Shawl

Frost on the Windowpane Shawl

To introduce the shawl, I think it's best to start at the beginning: it's a rainy, blustery day, the place is rural Romania, and the year is 1988. Okay, okay, maybe the origins of this piece aren't quite that dramatic... the truth is, I got the idea for the Frost on the Windowpane Shawl while attending a shawl shaping class with Chrissie Day at the Loch Ness Knit Fest in Inverness this last October, when she mentioned a concept called sequence knitting. And while I am no sequence knitting expert (if you want one, you should check out the definitive book by Cecelia Campochiaro), I understood enough of the basics to want to give it a shot.

Okay, first then - what is sequence knitting? As I have a very basic understanding, I again refer you to the book. What you need to know in order to make this piece, however, is that instead of using a multi-row stitch pattern, in which you line up your current work with your work from the previous row, you will simply be repeating the same combination of stitches over and over again to create the pattern on the non-stockinette portion of the shawl. Of course, since there are also increases and that stockinette stripe to deal with, it's perhaps easier to think of knitting this shawl using a few algorithms, or rules. I realize that that might sound complicated right now, but I hope you'll realize that it's easy and fun once you get started. Another bonus is that this shawl uses an almost identical amount of your color A and B yarns, so you can knit without waste (which I personally find terribly enjoyable).

Oh, and as a final note - you'll notice that I played pretty fast and loose with the gauge on this puppy. Almost any lighter-weight yarn will work; since it's just an increasing triangle shawl, you have a lot of freedom with your yarn choice!

Also, this shawl pattern was featured on AllFreeKnitting's collection of 11 Elegant Knit Triangle Shawl Patterns. :)

Please note: I edited the instructions for getting started row 11 on January 11, 2024

Finished Dimensions: roughly 56" along the stockinette stripe, 45" along the top, and 64" along the diagonal

Yarn: Skein Queen Linger (75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon; 465 yards [425 meters]/100 grams); Sea Holly - one skein (color A) and My Happy Place - one skein (color B)

A closer look at the details.

Needles: One 24" or longer circular needle in size US 5, and one US 4 needle for icord bind off (optional)

Notions: tapestry needle, one stitch marker

Gauge: 36 stitches = 4 inches on size US 1/2 needles, 20 stitches = 4 inches on size US 5 needles

So let's make a shawl, then! And I know I said some stuff about sequence knitting before, but we will begin with the stockinette portion of this shawl, so don't worry about that stuff for now. Using your color A yarn, then, cast on 8 stitches loosely and then go immediately to some beginning rows, as follows. As you'll notice, there are faux icord edgings on both sides of the shawl; leave those loose, especially the one at the beginning of your wrong side rows, in order to get the best stretch on your shawl when you block it. Anyway, let's continue like so. Note that I've included a video of the set-up below as well. :)

Beginning Row 1 (wrong side): using color A, slip 3 stitches with yarn in front (sl3), purl until you have 3 stitches left in row, sl3

Beginning Row 2: using color B, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, (yo) twice, k3 (+2 stitches)

Rock That Selfie Cowl

Rock That Selfie Cowl
in the farmer's market at Bürkliplatz

Okay, I'm scared I'm going to forget to tell you all of the relevant information about this cowl if I ramble on too long beforehand, so let me skip the intro and go straight to the details. First off, then, I made this cowl with a 120 gram bundle of 6 mini skeins; often, mini skeins come in 100 gram bundles with 5 skeins and if you have one of those that's okay too! You can still use your bundle to make this cowl, you'll simply have two fewer stripes (but since mine measures over 14" long I promise yours will still have a decent length too!). Secondly, I made this cowl top-to-bottom, because I wanted my gray yarn to be nearest to my face. You can make your cowl top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top, as you prefer, but I highly recommend finishing the TOP end with the i-cord bind off and the BOTTOM end with the picot bind off, since it spreads more and I personally prefer that spread towards the bottom. And third, this cowl is a perfect choice for scrap yarn if you don't have minis, and the basic design makes it a perfect choice to adapt for different weight yarns - so if you have any questions in that vein, just hit me up in the comments! :)

Oh, and yes - I did selfie for all of these pictures myself (it's such a nice pop of color for a picture!)... but with a friend in tow, so everyone we passed very clearly thought I was a lunatic who refused to ask for help with my photos!!!

Yarn: Martin's Lab Mini Bundle (100% Merino; 6 mini skeins of {80 yards [73 meters]/20 grams}); gray (color A), pink (color B), purple speckled (color C), green (color D), dark purple (color E), and periwinkle (color F)

You can see the i-cord bind off
on top and the picot bind off on
bottom... and the Limmat
in the background!

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 3, one needle in size US 2 or 3 (for i-cord bind off; smaller size is recommended), and one needle in size US 4 (optional, for provisional cast on)

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker, roughly 3' of scrap yarn for provisional cast on

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 3 needles

So let's get started! Using your color A yarn and your larger needles, if required (otherwise your size US 3 circular is fine), cast on 155 stitches provisionally. Then, if you used a larger needle to cast on, transfer stitches to your size US 3 circular, and in both cases place marker and join in round. Knit twelve rows, including your provisional row in that count, and then begin the striping pattern, as follows:

Rows 1 - 12: using your color B yarn, knit

Rows 13 - 24: using your color C yarn, knit

Starlight Slouch Hat

Starlight Slouch Hat
pictured in size Adult Medium

The story behind this hat is simple: although it's been months since I attended the Edinburgh Yarn Festival in March, I am still struggling to give myself permission to use all of my beautiful yarns (seriously you guys - the best way to give yourself knitting writer's block is just to buy an obscenely expensive skein and then MAKE YOURSELF DO IT JUSTICE!!!). However, since I ALSO just got back from another knitting festival with even MORE yarn, I figured it was finally time for me to work up the first batch. So I approached this hat with my best foot forward, and decided to design a pattern that was simple enough to do the beauty of the yarn justice while also containing enough detail to make it pop. What resulted, of course, was the Starlight Slouch Hat, a pretty pattern for a pretty yarn that still has enough oomph to turn a few heads. :)

Sizes: Adult Small/Teen (Adult Medium; Adult Large)

Yarn: Martin's Lab Merino Singles (100% Merino; 400 yards [366 meters]/100 grams); Fairy Dust - one skein 

A better look at the finish.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 2 (2.5 mm), one 16" circular needle in size US 3 (3.25 mm), and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 3 (3.25 mm)

Notions: tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches on size US 3 needles

So let's make a hat! Using your size US 2 needle, then, cast on 144 (156; 168) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k2, p2; rep from *

Work this ribbing row until ribbing measures roughly 2" (2"; 2.5"), transfer work to your size US 3 circular needle, and then we'll work one transition row, as follows. Notice it's different for the different sizes so make sure to find the right one for your project!

Transition Row (size: Adult Small/Teen): * k6, make 1 (m1); rep from * (+24 stitches)

Transition Row (size: Adult Medium): * k6, make 1 (m1), k7, m1; rep from * (+24 stitches)

Transition Row (size: Adult Large): * k7, make 1 (m1); rep from * (+24 stitches)

Follow Your Arrow Shawl

Follow Your Arrow Shawl

First and foremost: a quick thanks to Nikki from Zender Studios for taking these photos for me; you're a doll for helping (and lending me your shoes for the pictures)! And with that being said, let's get to some details about the pattern...

... like the fact that I should probably apologize for the fact that I made this delightful shawl using mill ends that I bought at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival, which means that I can't tell you *exactly* what's in the thing. However, I CAN tell you that I carefully measured everything I used, and added a 10% allowance to the values below, so you can find grams/yards/meters for every color, which should help you to choose your own materials (just remember: having the appropriate yardage is more important than the weight, especially for colors D & E [since those are my heavier weight yarns]). I also encourage you to view the pattern as a jumping-off point for your own color ideas; overall, it's made of 10 sections with 2 colors apiece, so the possibilities abound!

Speaking of the fact that it's 10 sections (and kite shaped, when laid out!), I should also mention that this pattern has not been tech edited, and since it's one of my lengthier designs I welcome any questions or comments about errors that you may find. Ultimately, it's not terribly complicated since I used the same pattern all over (a combination of garter and a mesh pattern), but once you add color choices and increases and decreases to the thing, I'm certain I slipped in my notation at least a few times. So again, I'm very happy to help with any issues you may find; in fact, I've even labeled each section of the design so that it's easier for you to identify any problems to me (just give me section and row number and we'll be good to go!).

Oh, and I know I'm being verbose today, but one last thing; I noticed, as I worked this, that it's easier to make knitting errors in the sections in which you're beginning with your color A, or the mesh pattern. If you notice that your counts are off, don't despair! This mesh pattern is VERY forgiving of errors, and as long as you correct your stitch counts by the end of each section you will be able to proceed, even if you've made a mistake (and, again, I highly doubt you'll find your error ever again). All in all - bon courage, and I hope you like your finished shawl as much as I like mine (IT'S AMAZING!). Also, if one of you actually makes it in the target yarn (ideally John Arbon Textiles Knit by Numbers 4 Ply) please send me pictures, so I know what it would look like if I didn't have such a strong attraction to the mill ends bin. Of course, even if you make it with a bunch of odds and ends like I did, I think it will turn out great just the same!!! :) (other ideas: scale it up with DK weight yarn and the appropriate sized needles if you'd like, or even worsted it you want a real sleeping bag of a shoulder wrap. and again, send pics!)

Finished Size: 75" long in total, 28" inches wide at the widest point

Yarn: John Arbon Textiles mill ends; White (Alpaca Delight, 70% Alpaca, 30% Merino; Color A; 120 grams, or roughly 510 meters/558 yards), Green (Knit by Numbers 4 ply, 100% Merino; Color B; 8 grams, or roughly 32 meters/35 yards), Orange/Green (unknown fiber; Color C; 30 grams or roughly 120 meters/132 yards), Dark Orange/Red (100% Merino; Color D; 58 grams or roughly 145 meters/159 yards), Light Orange (Knit by Numbers DK, 100% Merino; Color E; 100 grams or roughly 250 meters/274 yards)

From the side

Needles: One pair of needles in size US 3 (3.25 mm) (I used a 32" circular needle, but I think you should be able to make this on straights if need be, although they will get quite crowded!)

Notions: tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: I am a terrible person and used two different weight yarns in this shawl, as mentioned. Colors A, B, and C are 28 stitches = 4 inches on US 2 needles, the rest are 24 stitches = 4 inches on size US 4 needles. I am loosely averaging this to mean 26 stitches = 4 inches on US 3 needles for all. Like I said, terrible!

So let's get started! Using your color B yarn, cast on 2 stitches. Then, right next to those 2 stitches, use your color A yarn to cast on 3 stitches as well (at this point, that means that these two sets of stitches are not connected). Then, using intarsia color joins for all color changes, we'll begin our first color section like so:

Little Birds Hat

Little Birds Hat

Yet again the story behind this hat is simple: while at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival in March, I went on a quest to find the perfect silvery yarn for a hat design. After combing through all of the booths, I finally settled on the subtle luster of this 4 ply from Ripples Crafts. Then, of course, once I had the fiber picked out I had to figure out the pattern, and ultimately decided to let a play on a basic stockinette let the yarn shine through. So if you, too, have a gorgeous 4 ply at home this may just be the design for you! (or - even better - order one of the gorgeous colorways from Ripples!!!!)

Yarn: Ripples Crafts Hand Dyed Yarn 4 Ply - Burras (100% Wool; 400 yards [366 meters]/100 grams); Moonshine - 1 skein (I used 58 grams, or roughly 232 yards)

A look at the finish.

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 2, one 16" circular needle in size US 3, one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 3

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 3 needles

Using your size US 2 needle, cast on 154 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures roughly 1.5". Transfer your work to your size US 3 circular needle. Then we'll begin our main pattern, which is Little Birds from page 105 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Rows 1 - 3: knit

A Is For Ascot

A is for Ascot - toddler size

Oh man, this is a project that I finished quite some time ago, but then I couldn't photograph and post it because my wild third child didn't want to get in front of the camera to model. And, of course, as soon as I FINALLY snapped these pics he also let me cut his hair, which makes him look like less of a goober than he does in these photos. However, his gooberness aside - this is a fun cowl/scarf project that's perfect for a kid who keeps losing his or her scarfs (since there's a slit in one end and the other end tucks in!). It will also, adorably, make your child look ever-so-slightly like a sailor. :)

Sizes: Toddler (Child)

Yarn: Lang Yarns Mille Colori Baby (100% Virgin Wool; 208 yards [190 meters]/50 grams); #0050 - one skein (one to two skeins)

Could I have put him in a less
colorful shirt? Probably, but then
he would have been screaming.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 4; one needle in size US 5 for provisional cast on

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

And now that we've gotten that taken care of, let's make an ascot! First, then, using your size 5 needle, cast on 40 (48) stitches provisionally. Transfer to 3 of your size 4 dpns, distributing the stitches as follows: 20 stitches on your first needle, 10 stitches on your second needle, and 10 on your third (24 on your first; 12 on your second, 12 on your third). Join in round. Knit in stockinette until piece measures roughly 6" (7"), at which point we'll knit one decrease row, as follows. Notice that the rows are different for the two different sizes.

Decrease Row - toddler size: [(ssk, k1) three times, k2, (k1, k2tog) three times] twice (28 stitches)

Decrease Row - child size: [(ssk, k1) three times, k6, (k1, k2tog) three times] twice (36 stitches)

Rib & Braid Headband

Rib & Braid Headband

I wish I had a cool origin story for this headband, but the truth of the matter is that I was in the mood for a small project and I wanted to use my leftover yarn (the rest of this color went into the Zigazig Ah Scarf). Other than that, I went with a dainty cable to suit the light weight of the fiber, and a smaller needle so the ribbing would be nice and tight!

Yarn: Lang Yarns Merino 150 (100% Virgin Wool; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #197.0085 - one skein

A better look at the cute little pattern.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 3, cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

So let's make a headband! We'll start by casting on 144 stitches loosely, and then placing a stitch marker and joining in the round. Then we'll move straight to the main pattern, which is a variation on Rib and Braid Pattern from page 201 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and for which you'll need the following notation:

front cross (fc): slip 1 stitch to cn and hold in front; p1, k1 from cn

Crystal and Pearl Cowl

Crystal and Pearl Cowl

Considering I'm quite pleased by the way this warm-weather cowl turned out, it feels like I should have more to say about it. Still, all I can think is: three colors! lightweight! lace! yay! So, you know, if you want to get excited about a lightweight cowl, try this one! Or not. You know, your choice. :)

Yarn: Maddison Bio Baby (100% Organic Cotton; 197 yards [180 meters]/50 grams); #06 Purple - one skein (color A); #03 Tan - one skein (color B), & #01 White - one skein (color C)

The pattern.
Plus a little corner of my outdoor table.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 3

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches on size US 3 needles

So let's make a cowl! First, then, using your color A yarn, cast on 152 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll move straight to the main pattern, which is a three color adaptation of Crystal and Pearl from page 266 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:

Row 1: using color A, purl

Row 2: using color A, * k1, (yo, ssk) 3 times, k1; rep from *

Row 3: using color A, knit

Pomp and Power Cowl

Pomp and Power Cowl

First off: yes, I know it's a weird name! But that's only because, in researching the particular color of yarn I chose, I realized that "pomp and power" is actually a color of purple, and, in my opinion at least, the closest name I could find for this particular shade (go ahead! Google it! I'll be here when you get back!). And, ultimately, it's also not a bad name for this super lightweight, drapey cowl either, especially since the cowl made by knitting sock weight yarn on larger needles and has a very sophisticated look.

Yarn: Maddison Bio Baby (100% Organic Cotton; 197 yards [180 meters]/50 grams); #06 Pomp and Power (I couldn't find an official name, so I'm sticking with the theme here) - one to two skeins, and scrap worsted weight yarn for i-cord (I used a bit of the Lang Yarns Riva (52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic; 115 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); # 0009 Rosa/Grau/Blau I had left over from the Building Bridges Cowl)

The lacing in the back, for reference

Needles: One set of needles in size US 9, two double pointed needles in size US 9 for i-cord

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches on size US 3 needles (roughly 18 stitches = 4 inches on size US 9s)

And now that we've got the details out the way, let's move on to the pattern for this delightful lightweight cowl. And let's begin by casting on 19 stitches loosely, and then moving straight to some transition rows, as follows. To work them, we'll need the following notation:

Zigazig Ah Scarf

Zigazig Ah Scarf

The inspiration behind this scarf is simple: there are so many chevron patterns scattered around Zürich that I've lost count. Even better, though, is the fact that this slipped stitch color pattern works up quickly and easily once you've gotten the hang of it, and looks almost impossibly good. Long story short, if you wannabe the the best-accessoried human at the grocery store, then this is the pattern for you!

Yarn: Lang Yarns Merino 150 (100% Virgin Wool; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #197.0085 - two skeins (color A), & Lang Yarns Mille Colori Baby (100% Virgin Wool; 208 yards [190 meters]/50 grams); #845.0055 - two skeins (color B)

A closer look at the zigzags.
I mean the zigazig, ah...

Needles: One pair of needles in size US 4

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches 

And now, let's make a scarf! Using your color A yarn, then, cast on 56 stitches loosely. Then we'll work a few edging rows, as follows:

Row 1 (wrong side): using color A, p4, k3, p2, * k2, p2; rep from * until you have 7 stitches left in row; end k3, p4

Row 2: slip 4 stitches with yarn in back (sl4 wyib), p3, k2, * p2, k2 * until you have 7 stitches left in row; end p3, sl4 wyib

Rainbow Maze Hat

 

Rainbow Maze Hat
Size Toddler

The story behind this hat is simple: I've been hat-shamed for not sending my youngest to his preschool with a proper head-covering, so I decided to make one for him (to be fair, he's a very stubborn child, and has only recently been willing to wear one). And not only did the Rainbow Maze Hat turn out quite well, but he's also even worn it once or twice. Small victories, you know!

Sizes: 12 Months (Toddler; Child Small; Child Large; Adult Small; Adult Large)

Yarn: Lang Yarns Merino 150 (100% Virgin Wool; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #197.0035 - one skein (one skein; one - two skeins; two skeins; two skeins; two skeins) (color A), & Lang Yarns Mille Colori Baby (100% Virgin Wool; 208 yards [190 meters]/50 grams); #845.0050 - one skein (all sizes) (color B)

The pattern, and the back
Plus the baby's new jacket

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 3, one 16" circular needle in size US 4, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 4

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 27 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

So let's make a hat! Using your size US 3 circular needle and your color A yarn, then, cast on 114 (120; 126; 132; 144; 156) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll move to our ribbing, which goes as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 3.5" (3.5"; 3.5"; 4"; 4"; 4"). Transfer work to your size US 4 circular needle, and then we'll knit two transition rows as follows:

Autumn Rose Cowl

Autumn Rose Cowl

While I love (virtually) all knitting, I especially love designing pieces with a certain person in mind. This cowl was inspired by one of my kids' teachers, who has definitely earned something extra through her kindness and patience despite my kids' occasionally, ahem, * energetic *, behavior. As an added bonus, this cowl's simple design shows off the beauty of the yarn, and is also suitable for beginning knitters or as something to keep your hands occupied during a good movie.

Yarn: Malabrigo Mechita (100% Merino Superwash; 420 yards [385 meters]/100 grams); #862 Piedras – one skein 

It's amazing what you can do with a few knits
and some purls!

Needles: One 16" or 20" circular needle in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 26 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 2 needles

Which brings us to the cowl-making! With that in mind, cast on 140 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll begin our edging rows, as follows:

Edging Rows 1 - 4: * k10, p10; rep from *

Pansy Path Socks

Pansy Path Socks

I was recently presented with the opportunity to design another pattern for our friends at AllFreeKnitting, complete with this Lion Brand Sock-Ease yarn. And, long story short, this is what I came up with - a dainty color pattern that completes a clean design. I also knit one of these bad boys on 9" circulars, which I quite enjoyed (especially with this eensy weensy yarn). Anyway, you'll have to visit AllFreeKnitting to find the pattern for now (link below), but you can find all kinds of pictures right here in the meantime!

Sizes: adult small (adult medium; adult large) (small corresponds to the following US shoe sizes: women's 5 - 7 and men's 4 - 6, medium corresponds to women's 8 - 10 and men's 7 - 9, and large corresponds to women's 11 - 14 and men's 10 - 13)

Yarn: Lion Brand Yarns Sock-Ease (75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 438 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #100 Marshmallow - one skein (color A), #174 Green Apple – one skein (color B), & #139 Lollipop – one skein (color C) 

A closer view of these little snockerinos.

Needles: one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 1, one set of double pointed needles in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch holder or scrap of yarn for holding stitches

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 2 needles

So let's make some socks! First, then, using a Long-Tail or an Old Norwegian cast-on (for stretch), your color A yarn, and your size US 1 dpns, cast on 60 (68; 72) stitches loosely, divide between 3 dpns evenly, and join in round. Then we’ll knit our ribbing, as follows:

Sea & Shore Cowl

Sea & Shore Cowl

When I first started knitting this piece, it seemed very timely; the tulips were starting to bloom, and the weather was finally heating up. I even took the flannel sheets off my bed. Of course, every action has an equal and opposite reaction, so now it's freaking snowing. Before I start complaining about the cold spring, however, I should mention some important stuff - mainly, that this cowl is worked in two colors of sock weight yarn on size US 5 needles to give it extra airiness. Because the warm weather will arrive eventually, right?

Yarn: Schachenmayr Original Egypto Cotton (100% Cotton; 197 yards [180 meters]/50 grams); #00174 Leaf Green - one skein (color A) and #00166 Mint - one skein (color B)

A close up of the piece

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size US 5

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches on size 2 needles 

So let's do this thing! First, then, using your color A yarn, cast on 183 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit a couple of set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1: using color A, p16, place marker, p152 (or until there are 15 stitches left in round), place marker, and purl until end of round

Simple Eyelet Cowl

 

Simple Eyelet Cowl

I bought this yarn quite some time ago, on sale at the local yarn store. And I've been staring at it ever since, trying to find a way to show off the delicacy of the yarn in a compelling manner. Finally, I settled on this simple eyelet design, which brings a touch of class to a basic style. And while I don't have much else to say about the piece, I should mention - it was while knitting this item that I finally taught myself to hold the yarn continental style. The learning curve threw off my gauge, so I didn't get quite what the yarn package predicts. It's not a big deal, of course, just something to note if you're going to use the exact same fiber.

Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Peruvian wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #1214 Steel Cut Oats - one skein

The eyelets

Needles: One 20" or 24" circular needle in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers

Gauge: 26 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 2 needles

So let's do this thing! First, cast on 162 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 4: purl

Set-up Row 5: p80, place marker, purl until end of round

And once those are done, we'll move on to the main pattern, which is Simple Eyelet Pattern from page 168 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. And we'll proceed as follows:

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - right side

My five-year-old picked out this yarn ages ago, and has been bugging me to make something with it ever since. And after rejecting my first two designs (what can I say? the kid knows what he wants!), this fun hat finally passed muster. Even better, the wrong side of the design is just as charming as the right side, so the child you knit it for can wear it either way!

Kids' Reversible Cocoon Hat - wrong side

Sizes: Ages 18 months - 3 years (Ages 4 - 6; Ages 7 - 10)

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Fingering (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 273 yards [250 meters]/50 grams); #9430 Forest Green - one skein

Needles: 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double pointed needles, also in size 3

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches

So let's do this thang! First, using your circular needle, cast on 128 (144; 144) stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit 1" (1.75"; 1.25") in a k1, p1 ribbing. And then we'll get right to the main pattern, which is Cocoon Stitch from page 131 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. As you can see, there is no difference in pattern between the three sizes. And here we go!

Little Ladders Coasters

Little Ladders Coasters. Er, coaster...

I suppose I should begin this post with a clarification; despite the fact that I called it "Little Ladder Coasters," I only actually knit one (the yarn is leftover from the Mirage Cowl, in case you're wondering. And I could have knit many, many more). Anyway, it turns out that knitting with a new baby is not easy, and one single coaster has now become an entire week's worth of knitting. Luckily, one is all you need if you're drinking alone!

Some pattern detail... with terrible color! Whoops.

Yarn: Regia Angora Merino (65% New Wool, 25% Polyamide, 10% Angora; 219 yards [200 meters]/50 grams); #7080 Fuchsia - one skein (color A) & #7083 Teal - one skein (color B)

Needles: Straight needles in size 2

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 30 stitches loosely. Then, we'll work the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 - 3: using color A, * k1, p1; rep from *

Set-up Row 4: using color B, knit

Mirage Cowl

Mirage Cowl

When I first bought this yarn, I had no clue how I was going to use it (well, I knew I would use the two shades together - I love this color palette). And then I made the Slip-Stitch Mesh Fingerless Gloves and matching hat and the Water Lilies Cowl, and I saw a nice opportunity to combine variations on the slip stitch patterns I used for those pieces to maximum effect. Long story short, while the pictures don't quite do the front slip stitch pattern justice, color-wise (the pink shows up behind the teal a bit more in person than it does in the photos), the combination of the two is quite striking in this closer-fitting cowl.

Yarn: Regia Angora Merino (65% New Wool, 25% Polyamide, 10% Angora; 219 yards [200 meters]/50 grams); #7083 Teal - one skein (color A) & #7080 Fuchsia - one skein (color B)

My attempted close-up of the mirage-like color pattern.
Or something.

Needles: One 20" circular needle in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches

Using your color A yarn, cast on 160 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll knit four rows in a k2, p2 ribbing, followed by a knit row during which you'll place your extra stitch markers 20 stitches from either side of your row marker. And then, we'll move on to the main pattern, which is...

Row 1: using color B, * k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib) * until you reach first marker, m1l, slip marker, k2, and * slip 1 wyib, k1 * until you reach second marker; then, slip marker, m1r, and * slip 1 wyib, k1 * until end of round

Water Lilies Cowl

Water Lilies Cowl

Somewhat unbelievably, even after making the Razor Shell Fingerless Gloves and the Staghorn Fingerless Gloves out of my single skein of Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine, I still had a bunch left. And because I love to pair variegated yarns with similarly-colored single-color skeins, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to use up the Crystal Palace yarn I originally bought for the Starry Night Cowl. Long story short, the Water Lilies Cowl uses two sock weight yarns, a slip stitch color pattern, and a simple striped rib to make a nice, closer fitting design whose top portion is entirely reversible, for drape.

A close-up of the slipped stitch pattern.

Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Panda Superwash (51% Bamboo, 39% Superwash Wool, 10% Nylon; 186 yards [172 meters]/50 grams); #2004 Mint Print - 1 skein (color A), Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Superwash Wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #12177 Kaffir Mix - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 20" circular needle in size 2

Notions: Tapestry needle and stitch marker

Gauge: 30 - 31 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Using your color A yarn, cast on 180 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Next, purl 5 rows for the edging. Then, knit one more row. And then, it's time to begin our first pattern, which is Corn on the Cob Stitch from page 54 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. And it goes like so: