cn: cable needle
dpn(s): double pointed needle(s)
k: knit
k-tbl: knit through back loop
k2tog: knit two stitches together
k3tog: knit three stitches together
kfb: knit front and back of stitch
m1l: make one left
m1r: make one right
p: purl
p-tbl: purl through back loop
p2sso: pass two slipped stitches over
pfb: purl front and back of stitch
sl: slip
sl 2 knitwise-k1-p2sso: slip 2 knitwise, knit 1, pass two slipped stitches over knit stitch
ssk: slip, slip, knit
st: stitch
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front
yo: yarn over
what does * mean? end? repeat?
ReplyDeleteYup, that's the repeat - anything surrounded by the *'s gets repeated either until the end of the round, or however is specified after the second one. :)
Deletethanks!
DeleteAny time! I'm always happy to answer questions :)
DeleteWhat *wyib* means ? Thank you.
DeleteHi! It means "with yarn in back." I'll add it to the list! :)
DeleteHello please can you tell me how to do pass yo over last 3 knit stitches...thanks
DeleteHi there! This example isn't exactly the same (it's passing a slipped stitch over one knit stitch) but it is the same concept for the passing! Let me know if it doesn't help, though, and I'll try to find something closer! :)
Deletehttps://www.craftsy.com/knitting/article/psso/
I am trying to make the Fan Lace Hat and noted that when you say ssk it looks like you slip 2 stiches then knit them together, is that right?
DeleteWhen you say tfb that is an increase stitch correct
DeleteYes, for the ssk there's a link to a video embedded in the description as well! And here's a link to a text site if you prefer that... https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/slip-knit-ssk-2116155
DeleteAlso, I'm assuming you mean kfb or pfb... Either way, yes, they're both increases! :)
What does " make 1 left " mean
ReplyDeleteHi JoAnne! Just follow the link (here it is again, for your convenience, http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1046-make-1-left-or-right-m1-m1l-m1r) and the good folks over at Twist Collective can show you! Hopefully one day I'll be able to add more instructional stuff to my own site, but I just don't have the time right now. Anyway, let me know if you have any more questions :) I'm always happy to help.
DeleteThank you for your quick reply. JoAnne
DeleteLike I said, I'm always happy to help :)
DeleteHi there, I'm knitting a 'rib and cable hat' and I'm at the decrease but the first row doesn't seem to fit. *p1, k2tog, p1 (k4, p1) twice, ssk* adds up to 17sts and that doesn't go into 80 sts evenly.
ReplyDeleteHi Muriel!
DeleteThat row adds up to 16 (14, if you count the k2tog and ssk as 1 stitch apiece) - is it possible you're counting something wrong? I'd love to help more but I'm not sure what else I can say :)
Isn't ssk count as 3 stitches? Slip, slip, knit.?
DeleteAh hah! I see your confusion. Nope, ssk is 2 stitches - you slip 1 knitwise, slip the next knitwise, and then insert your lefthand needle through the fronts of the two slipped stitches (which will basically put your right hand needle in knit position) and knit the two stitches together. So just two! Let me know if you have any more questions :)
DeleteThanks for this description, I was doing it wrong also! That will help me finish my hat. yeah.
DeleteMarie
Happy to help! And I'll admit it - I did this stitch wrong for a long time too! :)
DeleteOh it's ok. I didn't realise that the US doesn't do PSSO.
ReplyDeleteSuper! Let me know if there are any other translation issues then, I guess :)
DeleteHello, can you explain the diference between k2tog and ssk?
ReplyDeleteHello! The main difference between k2tog and ssk (other than execution) is that a k2tog is a right-leaning decrease, and an ssk is a left-leaning decrease. Or in other words, they mirror each other, which is great for laces and neat decrease lines. Or were you looking for more instructional information? :)
DeleteHi what is fagotting, I want to knit the slouchy hat bt the slip stitch all the way fm the ribbing has me baffled. I dnt see the longggg slip stitch on the picture
ReplyDeleteHi Judy!
ReplyDeleteFaggoting in a stitch pattern in which every stitch is either a yarn over or a decrease. So, in the Super Slouch Hat (which is the one I think you're talking about), the faggoting is the (yo, ssk) stitch. There aren't any slipped stitches in this pattern, however, so I'm a bit confused about the rest of your question. Can you tell me a little bit more about what's tripping you up? :)
what does the abreviation dpn mean?
ReplyDeleteDouble pointed needle. I try to define that term in every pattern I use it in - did you see it somewhere where I didn't? I would be happy to go back and fix it! :)
DeleteHi, im knitting the sailors rib fingerless gloves and I am confused on Gusset row 1. ( Knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first DPN, complete row 3, knit to the end. ) Well there are only 12 stitches how do I complete row three with 12 stitches? Why don't I understand this?
ReplyDeleteHi Marie!
DeleteThe first time you knit gusset row 1, you should have 13 stitches on your first needle (or 15 if you're knitting the large size) since you added one stitch on gusset set-up row 2. All this instruction is telling you to do is knit that added stitch, and then proceed in your original pattern for all of your original stitches. When you reach gusset row 1 the next time, you will have 3 extra stitches since you'll add another stitch to your first needle on gusset row 2 and another one on gusset row 4. At that point, then, you'll have to k3 before you have 12 stitches left, and then you'll again proceed in pattern for all original stitches. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Thank you, I finally finished one glove. It took me a while for the light bulb to come on. I wasn't sure I would make it through. Now on to the right glove. The gusset was a new twist for me. I've not mastered it yet, but love practicing.
ReplyDeleteMarie
I understand, sometimes it takes a little while to get the hang of new directions. :) The reason I write the gusset the way I do (rather than writing out each line) is for two reasons, though: 1. because it looks way more complicated when each line is written, which is off-putting, and 2. it works better for multiple sizes. Anyway, I'm glad you sorted it out! I hope the right glove goes perfectly! :)
DeleteI am working on the Little Arrowhead fingerless gloves. I have completed the pattern 10 times and am ready for the gusseting in the thumb. It doesn't quite make sense to me. I have 3 needles with 18 stitches each. row 1: knit until you have 17 stitches left on your first needle. I only have 18 stitches, so do I knit one, they yo and then continue? Row 2: knit until you have 18 stitches left on your first needle, I only have 18 stitches, so I guess I ignore that and continue with the pattern? I guess you are covering all the sizes, as the larger size has more stitches, but I find this part confusing. Thanks
ReplyDeleteGuess what, I am so happy that I have figured out this thumb business and your instructions were totally accurate and work. I just needed to try it and count! by the way, I have the Barbara Walker book, but my 1970 (!) edition does not have this stitch. It is a fun stitch and I like learning new, so this whole project is new and I am enjoying it. Many thanks.
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteFirst, I want to apologize for my delayed response - I've been traveling (and will continue to do so for the remainder of the week - ack!). On the plus side, it seems like you've figured everything out! And you're exactly right that I write my gussets that way to cover all of the sizes and so I don't have to write out every row individually - sometimes it does get confusing, but I still think it's less confusing than a whole mess of instructions for each size (although maybe I'm just crazy). Anyway, let me know if you ever have any more questions! And I love that Barbara Walker book. :) I have all four!
I just finished one of the Lizard People Fingerless mitts. Rather than having to count stitches for each gusset row, I placed a stitch marker with my 12 stitches that I needed to leave before doing a m1r stitch and it worked great for me. Maybe this would help others also.
DeleteI forgot to say that I also used one after my 12 sts on that needle as well. I really like using stitch markers to show beginnings and endings of gussets and stitch patterns when there are more sts on a needle that are required for the pattern I am working.
ReplyDeleteYes, stitch markers are very handy! :)
DeleteWhat does w&t mean?
ReplyDeleteHi there! That's a term for short row knitting meaning wrap & turn - my apologies for the fact it's not in the glossary, I embed a link to a short row knitting page in all of patterns where I use it, so I forgot to put it here! Anyway, you can find more information here: http://new.knotions.com/techniques/how-to-knit-short-rows/
Deletewhat does cn mean
ReplyDeleteCable needle! I'll add it here though, thanks! :) And let me know if you have any other questions.
Deletewhat does wrap and turn mean
ReplyDeleteHi there! I don't personally have a short row tutorial up but here's one I like: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
DeleteThat should tell you what you need to know, and if it doesn't, let me know! :)
I see where you say it is used to mean short row knitting but what do I have to do
ReplyDeleteHi! Here's a link to one of my favorite tutorials: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
DeleteHope that helps! :)
Do you know of a good site that will teach me how to knit using Dpns? Thank you so much. I love your site. ��
ReplyDeleteHmm... that's a good question (and a technique post I've considered posting!). I usually like Knitty's advice: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer03/FEATtheresa.html and TECHknitting is great too: http://techknitting.blogspot.ch/2007/04/how-to-avoid-ladders-on-dpns-double.html
DeleteOr are you looking more for a video? :)
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry if you answer this somewhere else on your site, but your photos are so stunning. What camera do you use, and are you a self-taught photographer?
Actually, this is not something I have up anywhere and I appreciate your question and remark! :) Anyway, I am self taught and the majority of my photos were taken with my Canon Rebel T3, although some of the more recent ones were taken on my super delightful Canon 6D!!!
DeleteI'm working on the "Funner Summer Beach Bag" Could you please explain (p1, k1) in double yo. Also, I can't not find directions any where for the "Little Lace Chain" can I substitute it with another lace pattern? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi there! First off, here is a link to a video for the (p1, k1) in double yo. The woman that I'm linking to knits continental style, but it's really just the basic idea of completing a p1 in the first loop of the double yo, and a k1 into the second loop:
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9xKdHWy1h4
Also, I give all of the required instructions for the lace pattern in the directions - I just use some lace, and some other things, and like to give credit if I'm using a stitch pattern I found in a book (again, though, you will still find all of the required directions for making the lace in my instructions - no need to find it elsewhere). If you'd like to replace the lace, however, you can just use another lace panel that's 8 stitches wide. :)
Hello, I am working on your Spring Shadows hat. After knitting row one of the hat body do you drop the yarn overs(row one) when knitting row two and adding the yarn overs for this row?
ReplyDeleteLove your patterns Thank you Robin
Hi Robin!
ReplyDeleteIn row 2, the yo will be one of the stitches that make up the p2tog - no dropping required! :)
Hi! I’m working on you Funner Summer Beach bag. I’m having trouble with the main increase of row 1 and 2, where it says “knit until you have one stitch on needle. Do you really knit all those stitches? Or repeat what was stated at the beginning? Please explain.
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Hi there! You should have your stitches divided evenly on four double pointed needles, and everything that happens between the *s is repeated. For instance, on row 1, you'll do this:
Delete* p1, knit until you reach marker, m1r, slip marker, k3, slip marker, m1l, knit until you have one stitch left on needle, p1 *
four times. The same for increase row 2, the instructions will be repeated four times.
Does that help? :)
what does it mean, make 1 right; make 1 left
ReplyDeleteHi there! I just realized those links were dead so I updated them. The m1r is a left-leaning increase; the m1r is a right-leaning increase. Here are the same links I put above:
Deletehttps://newstitchaday.com/m1l-make-one-left-increase-knitting/
https://newstitchaday.com/m1r-make-one-right-increase-knitting/
Hi There!
ReplyDeleteCould you tell me what sl1-k2tog-psso means? Thank you :)
Of course! Somehow that one didn't make it in here, huh? Anyway, it's a slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over the 2 knit together. Here's a link with more info: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/sl1-k2tog-psso/
DeleteLet me know if you have any other questions! :)
Hi there! I am starting on your float flutter fly scarf, and I am confused in row two you indicate to slip 15 wyib then knit 15. I think I’m supposed to need 15 but I am confused about the slip in 15 with the yarn in back. Thank you for your help! I am very anxious to start on this gorgeous pattern!
ReplyDeleteHi! The instructions read:
DeleteRow 2: p1, k15, slip 5 with yarn in back (sl5 wyib), k15, p1
So you're purling one, knitting 15, and then only slipping five stitches with the yarn in the back, which is what creates the little rib in the middle of the scarf. Then you continue by knitting another 15 and ending with a purl. I hope that helps! :)
Nice post thank you Wendy
ReplyDeleteon the pattern "Im Lichen this" hat there is an instruction i am not clear on: main pattern rows 5&6 ... it says to slip 6 with yarn in back (sl6 wyib), does this mean you leave the yarn 6 stiches long in the back? it seems awkward.. can someone help me understand what to do? thank you
ReplyDeleteHi there! It's just like slipping 1 stitch except with 6... It's what makes the hat gather along the back cable a bit. You will see the long bars of the working yarn from the wrong side but I don't think it's particularly awkward once you get used to it. Just don't pull the yarn too tight when you start knitting again after the slipped stitches or your cable will be bunched up and you won't see it as well... :)
DeleteHi Gretchen. I have recently found your blog(always late to the party, that's me) and felt I had to let you know just how brilliant I think it is/was. Not only are you a great designer, but by taking the time to support those of us who, sometimes, struggle with written instructions, in a clear concise and kindly manner puts you way ahead of many of your knitwear designer collegues. Time is a priceless commodity . That your share/shared your so willingly is, to say the least inspiring. I see your site has not been active for some time and wondered if you are taking a well earned break, or have you in fact put the ball away for good.
DeleteWhatever, I couldnt let opportunity to praise where praise is due pass by without some show of appreciation.
Michelle UK
Hi Michelle!
DeleteThanks for your kind words! Yes, I do still try to support people struggling with my patterns. Treat others as you would like to be treated and all that! :) Unfortunately I've developed some joint problems that mean I'm no longer able to knit. I'm still around so I still try to help though!
Gretchen; I too have just discovered your website and blog; and you are a kind patient person, thank you for being there for us! I have a question to ask, I have never done any intarsia, is there a video of the color changes to watch? I could knit the hat in a variegated yarn, but it looks so 'right' with the color change I would love to try that. Thank you for your patience, and I hope that you will feel better soon.
ReplyDeleteHello! Thanks for your support. :) And yes, here is a video that I made with the intarsia color change: https://youtu.be/MhO9jlI00YA?si=A7c12t01d4sIr9lD
DeleteHope that helps!
I’m going to try the Minky Mittens. I have a skein of sport weight turquoise yarn and the lighter color in worsted weight. Would that work or should I use both worsted? I do want them yo be warm. Also after the ribbing your pattern says k1, slip 1 with yarn in back. Is it slip 1 purlwise wyib or knitwise wyib? Have not done this before.
ReplyDeleteHi there! So I'm kind of a lazy knitter, which means that I'm always willing to try something to see if it works. If your yarns aren't too terribly different in weight, you could probably use the thicker one for the main color and the thinner for the accent with no problem. If the sport weight one is on the lighter side, you could also hold two strands of it together and see how that works out for thickness.
DeleteAs far as the slipping goes, you always slip purlwise unless the pattern specifies knitwise, since slipping knitwise would twist the stitch. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions! :)