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| Little Flicker Hat size Adult Small/Medium |
The story behind this hat is simple: I've been hanging onto this yarn for what feels like FOREVER now and I finally pulled it out of the drawer the other day and the light just flicked on - I knew exactly what it wanted to be. And this fun-to-knit hat is not just quick to work up, either, but also unisex so you can make it for whomever you'd like!
Sizes: Adult Small/Medium (Adult Medium/Large)
Yarn: Malabrigo Arroyo (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 335 yards [305 meters]/100 grams); #866 Arco Iris - one skein
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| A look at the finish. |
Notions: Tapestry needle
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
So let's make a hat! First off, then, using your size US 5 needles, cast on 108 (117) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a ribbing, as follows:
Ribbing Row: * p1, k2; rep from *
Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 2", transfer work to your size US 6 circular needle, and then we'll work some transition rows, as follows. Notice that you'll need the following notation to continue; you can also find videos for these techniques below.
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
So, once you've got those techniques down, proceed like so:
Transition Row 1: * p1, lt, p1, k2, p1, rt; rep from *
Transition Row 2: * p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl), k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, k1-tlb *
Transition Row 3: * p1, k1-tbl, lt, k2, rt, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 4: * p1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 5: * p1, k1-tbl, k1, lt, rt, k1, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 6: * p1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 7: * k1, lt, k1, rt, k1, rt *
Transition Row 8: knit
Transition Row 9: * k2, lt, k2, rt, k1 *
Transition Row 10: knit
Transition Row 11: * k3, lt, rt, k2 *
Transition Row 12: knit
Transition Row 13: * k4, lt, k3 *
Complete transition rows 1 - 13 (both sizes). Then, knit in stockinette until piece measures roughly 7 - 7.5" (8 - 8.5") and you've just finished a round (in my finished piece, which I made in the smaller size, I worked until it measured 7.5" but you can see that it doesn't fit snugly so you could make it a bit shorter). Then we'll work the following transition rows:
Transition Row 1: * k4, lt, k3 *
Transition Row 2: knit
Transition Row 3: * k3, rt, lt, k2 *
Transition Row 4: knit
Transition Row 5: * k2, rt, k2, lt, k1 *
Transition Row 6: knit
Transition Row 7: * k1, rt, k4, lt *
Transition Row 8: knit
Knit these eight transition rows (both sizes), and then we'll work the decrease, as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * p1, ssk, k4, k2tog * (84 stitches [91 stitches])
Decrease Row 2: * p1, k6 *
You'll probably want to transfer your work to your dpns now...
Decrease Row 3: * p1, ssk, k2, k2tog * (60 stitches [65 stitches])
Decrease Row 4: * p1, k4 *
Decrease Row 5: * p1, ssk, k2tog * (36 stitches [39 stitches])
Decrease Row 6: * p1, k2 *
Decrease Row 7: * p1, k2tog * (24 stitches [26 stitches])
Decrease Row 8: * k2tog * (12 stitches [13 stitches])
Complete decrease rows 1 - 8, clip yarn tail, and use tapestry needle to thread through remaining 12 (13) stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.
That's gorgeous! I love how the crown detail echoes the pattern around the brim.
ReplyDeleteThanks Robynn! That's just what I was going for. :)
DeleteLove this! Now I know what MY yarn wanted to be when it grew up! Thanks!!
ReplyDeleteJan
It's always so exciting moment, isn't it??? :) Anyway, let me know if you have any questions!!!
DeleteAwesome hat! I'm doing the 52 Hats in 2018 challenge & will definitely add this one to my list of hats to knit. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWow, I admire your resolve! Good luck and let me know if you need any help with this one! :)
DeleteHaven’t heard of the 52 hat challenge. Got info?
DeleteWish I could help you but even Google is failing me on this one... if I had to guess, though, I'd say it's making 1 hat a week! :)
DeleteLovely hat very intricate will try this. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteWonderful! Let me know if you have any questions!!! :)
DeleteThanks so much for this, and all the patterns you post! I have made quite a few of your patterns and they are always well received gift knits :) This will definitely be my next dk knit.
ReplyDeleteWonderful to hear! Let me know if you have any questions!!! :)
DeleteDo I use sz.5 or 6 to make my swatch ?
ReplyDeleteUS 6. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, I love this hat and I’m knitting it for my 26 yo daughter. I’ve made a mistake somehow with the pattern. Is there an email so I can send you a photo to see where I’ve gone wrong? Kind Regards, Rosanne, Tasmania, Australia.
ReplyDeleteHi! Yes, of course. It's ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com
Delete:)
Love your name. It's awesome I've been teaching for over 30 years knitting since I was nine. How can I work just the lace pattern?
DeleteThanks
Hi there! I give the twisted stitch pattern in transition rows 1 - 13, so you could work those over and over I suppose. I designed this as a single motif, however, and the pattern could probably use some modification to make it more suitable for an all-over design. :)
DeleteHi Gretchen,
ReplyDeleteSo after you cast on and you place a stitch marker and join in the round, are you using a knit stitch for the first joined round or do you go right into the ribbing?
Thank you!
Hi there!
DeleteI go right into the ribbing. :) Let me know if you have any other questions!
Hi I love this hat. Perfect for my daughters-in-law. Is it possible to knit it with straight needles?
ReplyDeleteYes, just cast on flat with 2 extra stitches (those will go into the seam at the end so you can knit or purl or garter them however you prefer for seaming). Then knit the pattern as written for the odd rows, and backwards for the even rows. For instance:
DeleteTransition Row 2: * p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl), k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, k1-tlb * (original pattern) becomes Transition Row 2: * p1 through back loop (p1-tbl), p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, p1-tbl, k1 * - so you work end to beginning, and every knit becomes a purl and vice versa.
Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
The yarn you used is a weight 3, dk/sport yarn. If I was going to use a weight 4, worsted yarn, could I simply adjust/decrease the pattern by 11 stitches?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteIt's a 9 stitch repeat, so you'll want to go down by a multiple of 9 stitches, not 11. :)
I just stumbled upon this, it's beautiful! I'd like to make this as a hat for running, but include a pony tail hole. How could I do that? Maybe knit it on regular needles (not in round) and just leave a long slit, like a big buttonhole, in the seam in the back?? What do you think?
ReplyDeleteThe most common way I've seen pony tail hats made is with a hole at the top. Or in other words, for this one, you could basically just follow the pattern until Decrease Row 6, and then bind off rather than completing the decrease! :)
DeleteI know this sounds picky, but - I don't wear my ponytail at the top of my head - but halfway up the back of my head. Do you think I could somehow make a slit, like a long lengthwise buttonhole, for the ponytail hole? As long as I casted on regular needles, and knit it flat? (Just not connect a small section Haley up the seam)??
ReplyDeleteSure, you could also knit it in the round, and then just knit back and forth in the section where you want the slit to happen - when it's big enough, you could join it back in the round and continue. That would be my preferred method (no seaming!), but I would want to reinforce the beginning and the end of the slit so that the stitches don't tear apart there. :) If you really prefer to knit it flat, of course, you can do that as well by adapting the even numbered rows of the pattern and then seaming as you see fit at the end.
DeleteI would like the ponytail hole part way up the back rather than at the very top. I think I will make it and just bind off a few stitches and then cast on the same number of stitches in the next row and that should make a buttonhole type ponytail hole. What do you think?
ReplyDeleteYes, that would work too! :)
DeleteHi please can I have this pattern with straight needles.
ReplyDeleteHere you go!
DeleteSo let's make a hat! First off, then, using your size US 5 needles, cast on 108 (117) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a ribbing, as follows:
Ribbing Row: * p1, k2; rep from *
Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 2", transfer work to your size US 6 circular needle, and then we'll work some transition rows, as follows. Notice that you'll need the following notation to continue; you can also find videos for these techniques below.
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
So, once you've got those techniques down, proceed like so:
Transition Row 1: * p1, lt, p1, k2, p1, rt; rep from *
Transition Row 2: * p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl), k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, k1-tlb *
Transition Row 3: * p1, k1-tbl, lt, k2, rt, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 4: * p1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 5: * p1, k1-tbl, k1, lt, rt, k1, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 6: * p1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl *
Transition Row 7: * k1, lt, k1, rt, k1, rt *
Transition Row 8: knit
Transition Row 9: * k2, lt, k2, rt, k1 *
Transition Row 10: knit
Transition Row 11: * k3, lt, rt, k2 *
Transition Row 12: knit
Transition Row 13: * k4, lt, k3 *
Complete transition rows 1 - 13 (both sizes). Then, knit in stockinette until piece measures roughly 7 - 7.5" (8 - 8.5") and you've just finished a round (in my finished piece, which I made in the smaller size, I worked until it measured 7.5" but you can see that it doesn't fit snugly so you could make it a bit shorter). Then we'll work the following transition rows:
Transition Row 1: * k4, lt, k3 *
Transition Row 2: knit
Transition Row 3: * k3, rt, lt, k2 *
Transition Row 4: knit
Transition Row 5: * k2, rt, k2, lt, k1 *
Transition Row 6: knit
Transition Row 7: * k1, rt, k4, lt *
Transition Row 8: knit
Knit these eight transition rows (both sizes), and then we'll work the decrease, as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * p1, ssk, k4, k2tog * (84 stitches [91 stitches])
Decrease Row 2: * p1, k6 *
You'll probably want to transfer your work to your dpns now...
Decrease Row 3: * p1, ssk, k2, k2tog * (60 stitches [65 stitches])
Decrease Row 4: * p1, k4 *
Decrease Row 5: * p1, ssk, k2tog * (36 stitches [39 stitches])
Decrease Row 6: * p1, k2 *
Decrease Row 7: * p1, k2tog * (24 stitches [26 stitches])
Decrease Row 8: * k2tog * (12 stitches [13 stitches])
Complete decrease rows 1 - 8, clip yarn tail, and use tapestry needle to thread through remaining 12 (13) stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.