Super Baby Beanie

Super Baby Beanie
Pictured in size Adult Large

Before we dive into the specifics of the pattern, let's get one thing straight: yes, this hat is practically the same color as the last one I posted, the Four Winds Hat. As you'll remember, though, that's the yarn I snatched away from my husband before he could get too attached to it, and subsequently, the yarn that made me feel very, very guilty for the snatching. Hence the Super Baby Beanie for the Super Baby himself (hmm, that doesn't sound quite as flattering as I imagined it did). Anyway, this hat is made with an extra bulky fiber and big ol' needles, which makes it a perfect quick knit that still has plenty of pizazz. And while my girl Hedwig here looks pretty freakin' nice with it on (yes, I spent time braiding her wig), I should mention that it looks ever cuter on my husband!

Sizes: Adult Small (Adult Large)

Yarn: Lana Grossa Alta Moda Super Baby (67% Wool, 30% Alpaca, 3% Polyamide; 65 yards [60 meters]/50 grams); #01 Oliv Meliert - 2 skeins

A closer look at the pattern
and the finish.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 11, one 16" circular needle in size US 15, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 15

Notions: Tapestry needle, 1 stitch marker

Gauge: 10 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

So let's make a hat! Using your size 11 needle, then, cast on 52 (56) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then, we'll work the ribbing as follows:

Ribbing Row: * k1, p1; rep from *

Work this ribbing row until hat measures just over 2". Transfer work to your size US 15 circular needle, and then we'll begin the main pattern, which is Ringlet Stitch from page 136 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation:

make ringlet (mr): purl 2 stitches, then keeping the yarn in front slip these 2 stitches back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the 2 stitches back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the 2 purled stitches

And once you've gotten that down, continue as follows:

Row 1: knit

Row 2: * mr *

Knit these two rows until piece measures roughly 7" (8") in length and you've just finished row 1 of the pattern. Then we'll work the decrease, as you'll find below. For the decrease, you'll need some more notation, which is basically just a few variations of the ringlet, that go as follows:

make ringlet with purl 2 together (mr w/ p2tog): p2tog, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p2tog 

make ringlet with 1 stitch (mr w/ p1): p1, then keeping the yarn in front slip this stitch back to your left-hand needle, pass yarn from front of work to back of work and slip the stitch back to your right-hand needle, effectively wrapping the p1

And once you've got that covered, proceed as follows. Notice that the final decrease row is different for each size.

Decrease Row 1: * mr, mr w/ p2tog * (39 stitches (42 stitches))

You'll want to transfer your work to your dpns now... 

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: * mr w/ p2tog, mr w/ p1 * (26 stitches (28 stitches))

Decrease Row 4: knit

Decrease Row 5: * mr w/ p2tog * (13 stitches (14 stitches))

Decrease Row 6 (size adult small): mr w/ p1, * mr w/ p2tog; rep from * until end of round (7 stitches)

Decrease Row 6 (size adult large): * mr w/ p2tog * (7 stitches)

Clip yarn tail, thread through final 7 stitches and to inside of hat, pull tight and knot. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.