Primavera Wrap

Primavera Wrap

When I first bought this yarn, I definitely considered it a bit of a score; not only was it a fancy color gradient with size and texture fluctuations to boot, but it was also HALF OFF, price-wise. What can I say - I'm my mother's daughter, and can't pass up a good deal. But then, when I actually started trying to design a pattern for the stuff, it took everything I had not to give up and crawl into the bottom of a bottle. Why? Because, my friends, fancy yarns like these do not take many (probably most) stitch patterns well, and I was also hell-bent on making something with some interest value that wasn't a cowl or a scarf. And while I'll spare you the full details of my tribulations, I will say that I think I came out victorious in the end. This pattern, after all, is well-suited to a fancy fiber, and also grows in a triangle shape so that you will still make something interesting and style-able even if you're not working with a huge amount of yarn.

Yarn: Lang Yarns Ella (38% Cotton, 30% Polyester, 26% Viscose, 6% Nylon; 174 yards [160 meters]/50 grams); #0048 Altrosa - two skeins

A better look at the pattern.

Needles: Straight needles in size US 7

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette

Okay, so let's make a wrappy thing! And with that goal in mind, first cast on 3 stitches loosely. Then work 5 rows in garter stitch, which will make a little tab from which you'll continue. So, without turning your work, continue as follows:

Tab Row: yo, and then pick up 3 stitches along the edge of your garter stitch tab. At this point, you should have 7 stitches on your needle (3 from the end of the tab; one yo, and 3 that you've picked up along the edge of the tab) (oh and if I'm confusing you, just watch the video, below)

Complete the tab row and then we'll begin our set-up rows, as follows:

Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): p4, k3

Set-up Row 2: k4, yo, ssk, k1

Set-up Row 3: k1, yo, ssk, k4

Set-up Row 4: k3, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1 (8 stitches)

Set-up Row 5: k1, yo, ssk, k5

Set-up Row 6: k5, yo, ssk, k1

Set-up Row 7: same as set-up row 5

Set-up Row 8: k3, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1 (9 stitches)

Set-up Row 9: k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k4

Set-up Row 10: k4, (yo, ssk) twice, k1

Set-up Row 11: same as set-up row 9

Set-up Row 12: k3, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1 (10 stitches)

Set-up Row 13: k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p1, k3

Set-up Row 14: k5, (yo, ssk) twice, k1

Set-up Row 15: same as set-up row 13

Set-up Row 16: k3, yo, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, k1 (11 stitches)

Set-up Row 17: k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2, k3

Set-up Row 18: k6, (yo, ssk) twice, k1

Set-up Row 19: same as set-up row 17

Knit these 19 set-up rows. Then we'll move straight to our main pattern, as follows. And yes, I know the thing looks like a beast, but it's not - it just takes this long to write out directions for an 8-stitch pattern during which you add 1 stitch every 4 rows. I promise you'll get the hang of it quickly! Anyway, continue to work like so:

Row 1 (right side): k3, yo, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 2: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row; end k4

Row 3: k4, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 4: same as row 2

Row 5: k3, yo, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 6: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in row; end k5

Row 7: k5, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 8: same as row 6

Row 9: k3, yo, k2, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 10: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 6 stitches left in row; end k6

Row 11: k6, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 12: same as row 10

Row 13: k3, yo, k3, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 14: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 7 stitches left in row; end k1, yo, ssk, k4

Row 15: k4, yo, ssk, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row 

Row 16: same as row 14 

Row 17: k3, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 18: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 8 stitches left in row; end k1, yo, ssk, k5

Row 19: k5, yo, ssk, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 20: same as row 18

Row 21: k3, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 22: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 9 stitches left in row; end k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k4

Row 23: k4, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 24: same as row 22 

Row 25: k3, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 26: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 10 stitches left in row; end k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p1, k3

Row 27: k5, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 28: same as row 26

Row 29: k3, yo, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row (+1 stitch)

Row 30: * k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2; rep from * until you have 11 stitches left in row; end k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, p2, k3

Row 31: k6, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, * k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; rep from * until end of row

Row 32: same as row 30 

Knit rows 1 - 32 until piece measures desired length or you're almost out of yarn, and you've just finished a right-side row (for reference, mine measures about 52" along the garter stitch edge and 22" wide at the base of the triangle after blocking). Bind off, knitting the stitches you would have knit in pattern and purling those you would have purled. Tuck in ends and block ferociously (or not, whatever - this pattern doesn't much curl, but you might like to stretch your stuff out, especially if you didn't start with much yarn).