Divine Drape Cowl

Divine Drape Cowl

If this cowl is one thing, it's a summer-to-autumn wardrobe staple that would look great in any color, at virtually any length. And if it's two things, it's also yet another one of my attempts at the absolute perfect cowl design: not too bulky around the back of the neck, but with enough fun in the front to attract some attention. And heck, while we're at it - why not make it THREE things -- or in other words, your next project? ;)

Yarn: Premier Yarns Cotton Fair (52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic; 317 yards [290 meters]/100 grams); #27-09 Lavender - one skein

The main stitch pattern. Airy
and pretty, no?

Needles: Straight needles in size US 3, straight needles in size US 4, straight needles in size US 8, and straight needles in size US 5 for provisional cast-on

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 23 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

So let's make a cowl! Using your size 5 needles and a length of scrap yarn, then, cast on 35 stitches provisionally. Transfer work to your size 4 needles and knit two transition rows, as follows:

Transition Row 1 (wrong side): purl

Transition Row 2: knit

Knit these two transition rows, and then transfer work to your size 3 needles and we'll work a ribbing for a bit, like so:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * k1, p1; rep from * until you reach the end of the row

Ribbing Row 2: k1, * p1, k1 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 7.5" and you've just finished a right side row. Transfer work back to your size US 4 needles. Then we'll work a few more transition rows, as follows. You'll need the following notation to continue:

lifted increase (li): insert right-hand needle straight through the middle of the next stitch in the row below, and knit; then knit the stitch on your needle normally

And once you're clear on that, continue like so: 

Transition Row 1 (wrong side): purl

Transition Row 2: knit

Transition Row 3: purl

Transition Row 4: knit

Transition Row 5: purl

Transition Row 6: * li * (70 stitches)

Transition Row 7: purl

Work transition rows 1 - 7. Transfer work to your size US 8 needles, and then we'll begin the main pattern, which is Rick Rib from page 260 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes like so:

Row 1 (right side): k1, * yo, slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back, k1, pass slipped stitch over (psso); rep from *; end k1

Row 2: p1, * yo, slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front, p1, psso; rep from *; end p1

Knit rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 24" (of course you can also make it longer), and you've just finished a right-side row. Transfer work back to your size 4 needles.  Then we'll work some final transition rows, which you'll find below:

Transition Row 1 (wrong side): purl

Transition Row 2: * k2tog * (35 stitches)

Transition Row 3: purl

Transition Row 4: knit

Knit transition rows 1 - 4. Leave working stitches on one needle, and then transfer your provisional cast-on stitches back to your other size 4 needle. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft. Tuck in ends, and, if desired, block (but I wouldn't stretch out the back ribbing, since having it all folded up nicely is the point!).