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| Twilight Rose Beanie |
I have developed a weird fetish for the game of yarn chicken, and found the completion of this hat very exciting for exactly that reason; for a good hour or two, I was convinced I would have to run to the store for another skein of my fiber, and then for an hour or two after that I felt bold enough to continue without. At the end of the day, I finished this bad boy with about 2 yards of my first skein remaining, something I would brag about incessantly if anyone in my household actually cared (the boys are far more concerned about whether or not I'm going to feed them vegetables, and the husband makes an effort to nod politely, but I still know he doesn't know what I'm talking about, which ruins the fun). So what's my point? Oh yeah, this hat is lightweight, pretty, and a reasonably easy knit considering the look of the finished result, whether you require one skein or two.
Yarn: Lang Fantomas Superwash (75% Virgin Wool, 25% Polyamide; 153 yards [140 meters]/50 grams); #0209 Rosa Dunkel - 1-2 skeins
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| A better view of the finish. I'm pleased with how it turned out. |
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 25 stitches = 4 inches on size US 4 needles
So let's make a hat, shall we? Using your size US 3 needle, then, cast on 130 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. We'll need the following definitions to continue - and remember, you can always skip the cable needle if you're so inclined:
front cross (fc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front; k3, k3 from cn
back cross (bc): slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back; k3, k3 from cn
And with that defined, we'll continue as follows. If you're a chart person, you can find a chart of the entire hat below all of the written instructions; please note that I have included all rows in the chart, including the knit-only ones from the main pattern below the ribbing. Oh yeah, and if you're not a chart person we're working like so:
Ribbing Rows 1 - 2: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *
Ribbing Row 3: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, fc, k3 *
Ribbing Rows 4 - 6: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *
Ribbing Row 7: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k3, bc *
Ribbing Row 8: * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *
Knit ribbing rows 1 - 8 and then knit rows 1 - 7 once more. Transfer work to your size US 4 circular needle. Then we'll begin the main pattern, which contains an adaptation of Pointed Chevron from page 276 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and a braided cable, as follows:
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit
Row 2: * yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1) twice, k1, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 4: * yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *
Row 6: * yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 8: * yo, k2tog, k5, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k3, bc *
Row 10: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 12: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *
Row 14: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 16: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3, bc *
Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more. Then we'll begin our decrease, as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (130 stitches - no actual decrease in this one!)
Decrease Row 2: * k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k11 * (120 stitches)
Decrease Row 3: * yo, k2tog, (ssk) twice, (k1, yo) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, ssk, yo, fc, k3 * (110 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: * k2, (ssk) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, k11 * (90 stitches)
At this point you'll want to transfer your work to your dpns...
Decrease Row 5: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: * k2, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k11 * (70 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, bc * (60 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k9 * (50 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: * k1, ssk, k5, k2tog * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 10: * k1, ssk, k3, k2tog * (30 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: * k1, ssk, k1, k2tog * (20 stitches)
Decrease Row 12: * k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso * (10 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 12. Clip yarn tail, and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 10 stitches and pull tight. Tuck in ends.
Row 2: * yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1) twice, k1, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 4: * yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *
Row 6: * yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 8: * yo, k2tog, k5, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k3, bc *
Row 10: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 12: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *
Row 14: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *
Row 16: * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3, bc *
Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more. Then we'll begin our decrease, as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (130 stitches - no actual decrease in this one!)
Decrease Row 2: * k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k11 * (120 stitches)
Decrease Row 3: * yo, k2tog, (ssk) twice, (k1, yo) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, ssk, yo, fc, k3 * (110 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: * k2, (ssk) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, k11 * (90 stitches)
At this point you'll want to transfer your work to your dpns...
Decrease Row 5: * yo, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: * k2, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k11 * (70 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, bc * (60 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k9 * (50 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: * k1, ssk, k5, k2tog * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 10: * k1, ssk, k3, k2tog * (30 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: * k1, ssk, k1, k2tog * (20 stitches)
Decrease Row 12: * k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso * (10 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 12. Clip yarn tail, and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 10 stitches and pull tight. Tuck in ends.
Just finished this hat and, while the finished product was perfect in the cable section, the feathered SSK sections don't look quite the same as your photo. However, all-in-all an okay outcome. Thank you for sharing
ReplyDeleteIf your ssk's get a little funny you can always scootch the stitches a bit with the tip of your needle... anyway, glad you enjoyed the pattern! :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, I love your hat patterns! I have a quick question about your yarn notations....when you mention two different yarns - Are these suggestions for yarn that will give us the proper gauge for the pattern?
ReplyDeleteI want to make so many of your designs...
Glad to hear you like my patterns! And I don't ever list yarn suggestions, just the one/ones I used. :) Is there a specific pattern that you have questions about?
DeleteHi Gretchen, i like your hat patterns too! i walnt to ask you about the cast of stitches. So, 130 stitches isn't a lot for the hat? or than number of stitches give us an ordinary size?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThe cast on number is really just dependent on the gauge of your yarn... so, since this yarn is small, giving you 25 stitches per four inches, 130 is perfectly appropriate! :)
First off, thank you for all of your free patterns! I just found your site and am working on your "Friend of the Forest Hood". I love complex patterns!
ReplyDeleteSecondly, I don't really like hats that don't come down all the way over my ears(it looks like there's a bit of the manikin's ear that's not covered), is there any way to make the body of the hat longer?
Hi there!
DeleteGlad to hear you're finding patterns you like on my site. :) And yeah, with this hat I was limited by my yarn so it's not terribly long. You can always add another repeat of the pattern if you'd like, though - so instead of the direction "Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more" you can knit rows 1 - 16 three times, then rows 1 - 9, and then begin the decrease!!! Just make sure you have enough yarn. :)
Such a beautiful hat! Could you please speak to the round gauge you got? I'd like to know whether I'm close enough, or if I need to change yarns. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThe hat should be about 21" around, which can of course stretch a few inches bigger. Of course your ribbing probably won't seem that big fresh off your needles so make sure you stretch it to get gauge. :)
Thank you! I was actually hoping for round per inch - row gauge sounded wrong in my head for an item knit in the round. /grin And yes, not too worried about the "ribbing shrinkage" haha; t'is the nature of the beast.
DeleteLove your patterns! Great for all ages! I recommended your site to all my adult school knitting students!
ReplyDeleteOh thank you! I'm so happy to hear it!!! :)
DeleteOlease can you share this on straight needles.
ReplyDeleteYes, I'll do it when I get a chance. In the meantime, here's an article with instructions how to do it yourself. This pattern also has a chart, which can be used for flat or circular knitting! :)
Deletehttps://knittingforprofit.com/blog/convert-a-pattern-from-in-the-round-to-flat-knitting/
Here you go! I had to change the decrease a bit since I don't know how to do one of the decreases from the wrong side.
DeleteUsing your size US 3 needle, then, cast on 132 stitches loosely. Then we'll continue as follows.
Ribbing Row 1 (right side): k1, * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *, end k1
Ribbing Row 2: p1, * p9, (k1, p1) 8 times, k1 *, end p1
Ribbing Row 3: k1, * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, fc, k3 *, end k1
Ribbing Rows 4 & 6: p1, * p9, (k1, p1) 8 times, k1 *, end p1
Ribbing Row 5: k1, * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k9 *, end k1
Ribbing Row 7: k1, * p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k3, bc *, end k1
Ribbing Row 8: p1, * p9, (k1, p1) 8 times, k1 *, end p1
Knit ribbing rows 1 - 8 and then knit rows 1 - 7 once more. Transfer work to your size US 4 needle. Then we'll begin the main pattern, as follows:
Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl
Row 2: k1, * yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1) twice, k1, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1
Row 4: k1, * yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *, end k1
Row 6: k1, * yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1
Row 8: k1, * yo, k2tog, k5, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k3, bc *, end k1
Row 10: k1, * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1
Row 12: k1, * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *, end k1
Row 14: k1, * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1
Row 16: k1, * yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3, bc * , end k1
Knit rows 1 - 16 twice and then knit rows 1 - 9 once more. Then we'll begin our decrease, as follows:
Decrease Row 1 (right side): k1, * yo, k2tog, ssk, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1 (132 stitches - no actual decrease in this one!)
Decrease Row 2: p1, * p11, p2tog, p9, ssp, p2 *, end p1 (122 stitches)
Decrease Row 3: k1, * yo, k2tog, (ssk) twice, (k1, yo) twice, k1, (k2tog) twice, ssk, yo, fc, k3 *, end k1 (112 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: p1, * p11, (p2tog) twice, p1, (ssp) twice, p2 *, end p1 (92 stitches)
Decrease Row 5: k1, * yo, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, yo, k9 *, end k1 (82 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: p1, * p11, p3tog, p2 *, end p1 (72 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: k1, * ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, bc *, end k1 (62 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: p1, * p9, p3tog *, end p1 (52 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: k1, * k1, ssk, k5, k2tog *, end k1 (42 stitches)
Decrease Row 10: p1, * p2tog, p3, ssp, p1 *, end p1 (32 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: k1, * k1, ssk, k1, k2tog * , end k1 (20 stitches)
Decrease Row 12: p1, * p3tog, p1 *, end p1 (12 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 12. Clip yarn tail, and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 12 stitches and pull tight. Seam from bottom and tuck in ends.