She's A Betty Bonnet

She's A Betty Bonnet
Isn't she, though?

When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way.

Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins

A closer view of the back finish.
It's different, no?

Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11

Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles

So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows:

Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from *

Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 *

Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows:

Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8

And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well):

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

And once you have that down, we'll continue like so:

Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches)

Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them 

Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches)

Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them

Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows:

Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them

Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times

Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them

Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1

Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows:

Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches)

Decrease Row 2: knit

Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches)

Decrease Row 4: knit

Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches)

Decrease Row 6: knit

You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now...

Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches)

Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches)

Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches)

Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches)

Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches)

Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches)

Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.