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| Banded Cable Beanie |
Sometimes a good hat needs no introduction. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself today because, quite frankly, I don't feel like writing one. Nevertheless, I will tell you that this hat works up quickly and reasonably easily for a cabled number and is suitable for the larger-headed amongst us (as well as the smaller-headed, although it won't be overly snug). It's also pretty snappy looking, if I do say so myself.
Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8% Nylon; 136 yards [125 meters]/100 grams); #6146 Azure - one skein
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| A better look at the decrease. |
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
So let's make a hat! Using your size 9 needle, then, cast on 75 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work our ribbing as follows:
Ribbing Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from *
Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 1.5." Transfer work to your size US 10 circular needle. Then, we'll work one transition row, as follows:
Transition Row: * m1r, k6, m1l, p1, k1, p1, m1r, k6 * (90 stitches)
Knit this transition row. And once it's done, it's time to begin our main pattern, which goes as follows:
Rows 1 & 3: * k7, p2, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl), p2, k6 *
Rows 2 & 4: * k7, p2, k1, p2, k6 *
Row 5: * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn, p2, k1-tbl, p2, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn *
Rows 6, 8, 10 & 12: * k7, p2, k1, p2, k6 *
Rows 7, 9 & 11: * k1, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches, k3, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k3, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches *
Row 13: * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn, p2, k1-tbl, p2, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn *
Rows 14 & 16: * k7, p2, k1, p2, k6 *
Row 15: * k7, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k6 *
Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit rows 1 - 11 again. Then we'll move to our decrease, which goes as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * k7, p2tog, k1, p2tog, k6 * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 2: * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn, p1, k1-tbl, p1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn *
Decrease Row 3: * k2, k2tog, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, ssk, k1 * (70 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: * k1, k2tog, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p1, k3, ssk * (60 stitches)
You may want to transfer your work to your dpns about now...
Decrease Row 5: * k5, p3tog, k4 * (50 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: * k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2 * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1 * (30 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: * k1, k2tog, p1, ssk * (20 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: slip first 2 stitches from 1st dpn to last dpn, then; * p1, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (10 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 9. Clip yarn tail and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 10 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Tuck in ends.
Cute! I haven't worked with bulky weight yarn yet...I'm surprised it works so well for a hat with such definition.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you like it! And I think a yarn's fuzz factor and color make the biggest difference as far as definition is concerned, but that's probably just me! :)
DeleteThanks for the patterns. You always have tons of
ReplyDeletegreat stuff here. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Anita.
Hi Anita!
DeleteGlad you like the pattern. :) I gave this to my brother-in-law, who's visiting right now. I don't think he's taken it off!
I absolutely love all your patterns. I've made at least TEN of your hats. I started the banded cable beanie and suddenly i'm stumped. HELP! I don't understand "pass yo over the last 3 stitches" -- won't I end up with too many increases?
ReplyDeleteRows 7, 9 & 11: * k1, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches, k3, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k3, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches *
Hello there!
DeleteFirst off, I'm very happy to hear that you are enjoying my site! :) And secondly, the bars are created when you pass the yarn over over the stitches; it does not end up being an increase, just that bar detail. So just, after you k3, insert your left hand needle tip into the yo before the three stitches, lift it, and then bring it off of your right hand needle, so that it is no longer a new stitch but just a wrap. Let me know if that makes sense, and if it doesn't, I'll make a video! :)
GRETCHEN! You are the best. Now I'm sort of smacking my forehead that I couldn't figure that out. DUH! It looks great. Thanks so much for getting back to me so quickly. I'll send a picture of the finished product. Happy holidays.
DeletePerfect, sounds great! Can't wait to see it when it's done, and happy holidays to you as well!!! :)
DeleteHi Gretchen - this is my 8th hat of the holiday and my first of yours, it's really a beautiful design! The detail is really lovely, and fun to knit. The person I'm making it for has a big head, like crown to ear is 9.3" or so. And she would like a bit of flop in the hat. What would be the best way to delay the decreasing rows so that the hat is a little taller? Thanks so much! Happy New Year, Wendy
ReplyDeleteHi Wendy!
DeleteGlad to hear you like the pattern! :) And with this particular design, the best way to add length if you're midway through is just to add another repeat of the main pattern (or you could stop it midway, but then you'd need to redo the decrease as well). If you haven't started yet, you could also consider an extra-long ribbed brim! :)
Thanks so much! I'm actually pretty far along, Row 6 of repeat of 11, and have to finish today so the hat can go off to University! I thought about longer brim but I didn't know the finished measurements - could you post those? Then I'll have to decide when to decrease. I get confused with one cable at R5 and the next at R13, what is the main pattern? I've never designed anything! I appreciate your quick response!
DeleteHi again!
DeleteThis hat is just over 9" long, finished. And by main pattern I just meant rows 1-16; you can do those twice, and then rows 1-11, if you want (instead of once through and then another 1-11 as the pattern suggests). However, if you finish rows 1-16 and 1-11 again and your hat measures roughly 7" then you should be on track for a 9"+ length; if it's much shorter you will probably want to know rows 1-16 again. Hope that helps!!! :)
Gretchen, thanks much! That helps so much- I see what you mean, and will make big decisions in about 5 rows.Too bad there is no way to do a half of pattern~ I really appreciate your quick answers, happy 2018!
ReplyDeleteI did it "as is" and it came out fantastic! Thanks again. Wendy
DeletePerfect, so glad to hear it!!! Happy New Year!!! :)
ReplyDeleteHi Gretchen ! Hoping you'll receive and respond to one probably very simple question (ooops, make that 2 questions) that has me stumped in your instructions which comes up immediately after your last round decrease: "Knit decrease rows 1 - 9". Am I supposed to knit an additional 9 rounds on the 10 stitches I will have left after all the decreases ? I'm so confused. Thanx much and looking forward to your response so I can start knitting :-) BTW...when you say ROWS do you really mean ROUNDS which is the term I always use when knitting on circular needles. Kind regards, Viola in Toronto
ReplyDeleteHi Viola!
DeleteNope, just knit decrease rows 1 - 9 once through - I imagine it would be very strange to try to knit them a second time! And yes, I do mean rounds when I say rows, and you're right that saying rounds is more precise, but I've never been able to retrain myself! :)
Gretchen...thanx so much for your reply and hope when I finish my hat it looks as beautiful as yours. I love the design which looks 3 dimensional and the top where it almost looks like a kaleidoscope. Unless I missed it somewhere in your instructions, I did a search on-line for the M1R and M1L increases. I'm curious, is the hat supposed to have a snug fit ?
DeleteBest wishes, Viola
PS...you've got a beautiful family :-)
Hi again! I have links embedded for those two stitches. :) And I don't remember this hat fitting too snugly, but if yours is a bit tight you could always block it bigger!
DeleteHi ! Just wanted to let you know the embedding link (only for m1r)isn't viable. This is the message I received: Sorry, the page you are looking for was not found or no longer exists.
DeleteRegards, Viola
Oh no! Thanks for letting me know, I'll investigate!
DeleteHi Gretchen...hopefully this will be my last time needing your amazing support ! I've knit rounds 1-7 on my circular needle and just about to begin my decrease on Round 8 and will now switch over to my DPNs. How many of the 30 stitches should be on each DPN ? 15 stitches on 2 DPN and use a third DPN to knit with ? Then the last instruction on Round 9 has my totally mystified after the p1. I have no idea what to do...slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso. I just can't visualize the process. Otherwise, the hat looks FABULOUS. I don't want to mess this up on the last 2 rounds :-(
DeleteI can't begin to thank you enough for all your support. Will definitely knit another of your patterns. Love your designs. Kind regards, Viola
Hi Viola!
DeleteI usually just keep my decrease sections together, so in this case, you have 30 stitches and you've been decreasing in groups that are now six stitches long (the repeat). You should have five of them, so I would put 10 stitches on one dpn, 10 on the next, and 5 on the last. And here's some information about the decrease :)
https://www.google.com/amp/s/blog.tincanknits.com/2016/01/21/central-double-decrease/amp/
Pls can you share this pattern on straight needles.
DeleteHere it is! I've had to change a few stitches in the adaptation.
DeleteSo let's make a hat! Using your size 9 needle, then, cast on 77 stitches. Then we'll work our ribbing as follows:
Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * p1, (k1, p1) twice *, end p1
Ribbing Row 2: k1, * (k1, p1) twice, k1 *, end k1
Knit this ribbing row until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you’ve just finished a right side row. Transfer work to your size US 10 needles. Then, we'll work one transition row, as follows:
Transition Row (wrong side): p1, * p6, purl front and back of stitch (pfb), k1, p1, k1, pfb, p6, pfb *, end p1 (92 stitches)
Knit this transition row. And once it's done, it's time to begin our main pattern, which goes as follows:
Rows 1 & 3 (right side): k1, * k7, p2, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl), p2, k6 *, end k1
Rows 2 & 4: p1, * p6, k2, p1, k2, p7 *, end p1
Row 5: k1, * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn, p2, k1-tbl, p2, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn *, end k1
Rows 6, 8, 10 & 12: p1, * p6, k2, p1, k2, p7 *, end p1
Rows 7, 9 & 11: k1, * k1, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches, k3, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k3, yo, k3, pass yo over last 3 knit stitches *, end k1
Row 13: k1, * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn, p2, k1-tbl, p2, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn *, end k1
Rows 14 & 16: p1, * p6, k2, p1, k2, p7 *, end p1
Row 15: k1, * k7, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k6 *, end k1
Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit rows 1 - 11 again. Then we'll move to our decrease, which goes as follows:
Decrease Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * p6, k2tog, p1, k2tog, p7 *, end p1 (82 stitches)
Decrease Row 2: k1, * k1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn, p1, k1-tbl, p1, slip next 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn *, end k1
Decrease Row 3: p1, * p1, ssp, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, p2tog, p2 *, end p1 (72 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: k1, * k1, k2tog, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p1, k3, ssk *, end k1 (60 stitches)
Decrease Row 5: p1, * p4, k3tog, p5 *, end p1 (52 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: k1, * k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2 *, end k1 (42 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: p1, * p1, ssp, k1, p2tog, p2 *, end p1 (32 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: k1, * k1, k2tog, p1, ssk *, end k1 (22 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: * p2tog * (11 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 9. Clip yarn tail and, using tapestry needle, thread through remaining 11 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Seam from bottom and tuck in ends.
Please can you convert this to straight needles for yarn with 22stitches = 4 inch using size 6 needles. Thanks
ReplyDeleteFor this variation, cast on 120 stitches and add extra repeats for length as necessary. You may also want to add another decrease row of k2tog.
Delete