Pansy Path Socks

Pansy Path Socks

I was recently presented with the opportunity to design another pattern for our friends at AllFreeKnitting, complete with this Lion Brand Sock-Ease yarn. And, long story short, this is what I came up with - a dainty color pattern that completes a clean design. I also knit one of these bad boys on 9" circulars, which I quite enjoyed (especially with this eensy weensy yarn). Anyway, you'll have to visit AllFreeKnitting to find the pattern for now (link below), but you can find all kinds of pictures right here in the meantime!

Sizes: adult small (adult medium; adult large) (small corresponds to the following US shoe sizes: women's 5 - 7 and men's 4 - 6, medium corresponds to women's 8 - 10 and men's 7 - 9, and large corresponds to women's 11 - 14 and men's 10 - 13)

Yarn: Lion Brand Yarns Sock-Ease (75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 438 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #100 Marshmallow - one skein (color A), #174 Green Apple – one skein (color B), & #139 Lollipop – one skein (color C) 

A closer view of these little snockerinos.

Needles: one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 1, one set of double pointed needles in size US 2

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch holder or scrap of yarn for holding stitches

Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 2 needles

So let's make some socks! First, then, using a Long-Tail or an Old Norwegian cast-on (for stretch), your color A yarn, and your size US 1 dpns, cast on 60 (68; 72) stitches loosely, divide between 3 dpns evenly, and join in round. Then we’ll knit our ribbing, as follows:
Ribbing Row: * p2, k2; rep from *

Knit this ribbing row until sock measures roughly 1.75” (2”; 2.25”). Then switch to your size US 2 needles and knit five rows around. Then we’ll work our color stripe as follows. Make sure to leave your yarn very loose behind the slipped stitches, or your sock will be too tight.

Color Rows 1 & 2: using color B, * k2, slip 2 with yarn in back (wyib); rep from *

Color Row 3: using color A, knit

Color Rows 4 & 5: using color C, * slip 2 wyib, k2; rep from *

Color Row 6: using color A, knit

Color Rows 7 & 8: using color B, * k2, slip 2 with yarn in back (wyib); rep from *

Knit color rows 1 – 8. Clip the tails of your color B & color C yarns, since you’re done with them. Using color A, knit 10 (15; 20) rows in stockinette.

Once these rows are done, it's time to begin working the heel portion of the sock. With that in mind, k15 (k17; k18). Then, turn work around and, using the same needle, p30 (p34; p36). The 30 (34; 36) stitches you just worked are your heel stitches, so you can go ahead and transfer the other 30 (34; 36) stitches to a stitch holder or yarn scrap to work later. Continuing with your heel stitches, then, we'll knit like so:

Heel Row 1 (right side): * slip 1 stitch purlwise (slip 1) with yarn in back (wyib), k1; rep from *

Heel Row 2: slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), purl to end of row

Knit heel rows 1 & 2 15 (17; 18) times. Then we'll begin our heel turn, which uses short rows for shaping. So we'll knit the following two transition rows:

Transition Row 1 (right side): k17 (k19; k20), ssk, k1, turn

Transition Row 2: slip 1 wyif, p5, p2tog, p1, turn

And once those two bad boys are done, we'll continue the heel turn as follows. Note that you'll be bridging the gaps made by the turns with your ssk and p2tog stitches, and that wrapping & turning isn't necessary in this instance.

Turn Row 1: slip 1 wyib, knit to one stitch before gap from turn on previous row, ssk, k1, turn

Turn Row 2: slip 1 wyif, purl to one stitch before gap from turn on previous row, p2tog, p1, turn

Knit turn rows 1 & 2 until you've worked all of your heel stitches. If you're knitting the large size, on your final repeat of turn row 1, you will omit the final k1, and on your final repeat of turn row 2, you will omit the final p1. When you're done with this section, you will have (18, 20, 20) stitches remaining on your heel, and it will be time to begin the gusset. With that in mind, we'll knit the gusset set-up row as follows:

Gusset Set-up Row: with first needle, knit across all heel stitches. Then, pick up and 16 (18; 19) stitches along edge of heel flap, placing each stitch in one of your slipped edge stitches, and placing the final picked-up stitch in the corner where the heel meets the top of the sock. With your second dpn, knit across instep (your 30 (34; 36) held stitches). Then, with 3rd dpn, pick up 16 (18; 19) stitches along other edge of heel flap, placing first picked-up stitch in the corner where the heel meets to the top of the sock, and then knit across first 9 (10; 10) stitches from first dpn, so that the round once again begins at the center back of the heel. You should now have 25 (28, 29) stitches on your first needle (or before your first row marker), 30 (34; 36) stitches on your second needle, and 25 (28, 29) on your third.

Complete the gusset set-up row. Now we're ready to work on the gusset, as follows. Make sure to read the directions below the rows carefully, as they will be specific for your size.

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 3 stitches left on your first needle, k2tog, k1; knit across second needle; k1, ssk, knit until end of third needle

Gusset Row 2: knit

Knit gusset rows until you have 15 (17; 18) stitches left on each of your first and third needles. Now we'll continue in stockinette, without decreases, until the piece measures roughly 7.5" (8"; 8.75") from the back of the heel, or until you're at about 2" (2.25"; 2.25") from your desired finished length. Now it's time to work on the toe decreases. With that in mind, we'll continue like so:

Toe Row 1: knit until 3 stitches remain on first needle, k2tog, k1; on second needle, k1, ssk, knit until 3 stitches remain on second needle, k2tog, k1; on third needle, k1, ssk, knit until end of needle

Toe Row 2: knit

Knit rows 1 & 2 until 32 (36; 36) stitches remain in sock. Then we'll work Toe Row 1 only (no toe row 2!) until only 12 (16; 16) stitches remain. Knit stitches from needle 1 onto needle 3, so that there are only 6 (8; 8) stitches on each of two needles. Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft final stitches. Then, tuck in ends, and block. Make another.