Rose Briar Bag

Rose Briar Bag

I'll admit it; my reasons for designing this Rose Briar Bag are totally self-serving. Namely, I think it will make a nice holiday gift, when the time comes. Of course, it has other nice details as well, such as the triangular base (it's knit bottom-up) and the lace stripes. As pictured, it's also finished with a three needle bind off to attach the handles, although you're welcome to seam them instead.

Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 120 yards [109 meters]/70.9 grams); #01322 Lilac - 3 skeins

A closer look

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles, also in size US 7, size 10 or larger needles for provisional cast on, and one 24" circular needle in size US 7 (recommended but not required)

Notions: Tapestry needle, four stitch markers

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles

First and foremost, let's knit some handles! So, using your largest needles and a provisional cast on, cast on 11 stitches (if you plan to seam this bag rather than use the three needle bind off to attach the handles, you don't need to use a provisional cast on). Then switch to whichever set of size 7 needles you want to work back and forth on and knit the following set-up rows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): p11

Set-up Row 2: k11

And once those are done, let's go straight to the main handle pattern. The three slipped stitches on either side will serve to create i-cords as you work. Anyway, let's proceed as follows:

Handle Row 1: slip 3 with yarn in back (wyib), k5, slip 3 wyib

Handle Row 2: p3, k5, p3

Knit handle rows 1 & 2 until handle measures 10" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Then we'll knit the following three rows:

Finish Rows 1 & 3: knit

Finish Row 2: purl

Knit these three rows and then transfer live stitches to scrap of yarn or stitch holder (to attach later in a three needle bind off - once again, if you don't plan to use one, go ahead and bind off regularly). Clip tail of yarn and make another handle in the same way.

And now that the handles are done, let's make the rest! As a note, we'll be working the bag part bottom up, so we'll begin on our dpns. Cast on 6 stitches, then, and place two stitches apiece on three needles. Join in round, and then we'll knit two set-up rows. Notice you'll be placing three stitch markers on row 2.

Set-up Row 1: knit

Set-up Row 2: (kfb, place marker, kfb) three times (+6 stitches)

And once your set-up rows are done, we'll move to our increase rows, which we'll knit until the bag reaches its full diameter. Remember to switch to your 16" circular needle once you have about 80 stitches on your needles (and to place your row marker, of course).

Increase Rows 1 - 2: (knit until you're one stitch before marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo, knit until end of needle) three times (+6 stitches with each repeat)

Increase Row 3: knit

Increase Row 4 - 5: repeat row 1

Knit increase rows 1 - 5 until you have 120 stitches on your needle and you've just knit row 3 of the pattern. Go ahead and remove your extra markers. Transfer work to your 24" circular needle, if desired. And now, it's time to begin our main pattern, for which we'll need the following notation:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again.  Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

And now that that's out of the way, let's proceed as follows:

Row 1: * k1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k1; rep from *

Row 2: * k1, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 3: * k1, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 4: * k1, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 5: * k1, yo, k2tog, k6, rt, k6, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 6: * k1, yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog, (yo twice), ssk, k5, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 7: * k1, yo, k2tog, k4, k2tog, yo, k1 in first yo, k1 through back loop in second yo , yo, ssk, k4, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 8: * k1, yo, k2tog, k3, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k3, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 9: * k1, yo, k2tog, k2, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k2, ssk, yo, k1 *

Row 10: * k1, yo, k2tog, k14, ssk, yo, k1 *

Knit rows 1 - 10 six times, and then we'll switch patterns for the top portion of the bag. So let's proceed as follows:

Finish Row 1: * k11, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2, (k1, p1) 4 times, k11, (p1, k1) 5 times, (k1, p1) 5 times *

Knit this finish row until this section of the pattern measures roughly 2". If you're seaming your bag, go ahead and bind off in pattern and then stitch handles in place above stockinette portions of bag - each handle should be attached so that the [(p1, k1) 4 times, p2, (k1, p1) 4 times] section of the pattern is between the two ends of the handle. If you're using the three needle bind off, go ahead and transfer the stitches from one end of one handle to a dpn. Using the three needle bind off and with right sides together, attach the first end of the first handle to the first 11 stitches of bag; then bind off regularly in pattern until you reach the next set of 11 stitches done in stockinette. Attach the other end of the first handle in the same way. Bind off regularly, in pattern, until your reach the next set of 11 stockinette stitches. Attach the first end of the second handle using the three needle bind off, and repeat the instructions to bind off to, and attach, the second end. Finally, finish binding off in pattern, tuck in ends, and block. And FINALLY finally, if you need more detailed instructions for the three needle bind off, check out the bottom of my post on the Chevron Market Bag. I took pretty pictures for that one and everything!!!