Chevron Market Bag |
When I first considered the idea of making a bag like this one, I picked a lovely yarn that I knew would be perfect and started to design the thing in my head. Unfortunately, however, while I PICKED a yarn, I didn't actually BUY it, and it was gone by the next time I visited the shop. So the Chevron Market Bag is the redesigned version of my imaginary-yarn bag, not that you would know it in a glance. This bad boy turned out pretty striking on its own, after all, even if it might be a bit rainbow-y for some people's tastes (luckily, you can pick your own yarn!). Furthermore, while I knit this bag with a provisional cast-on and a three-needle bind off to attach the handles, I am providing two sets of instructions, one for a bag exactly like the one I made, and one for a bag that skips the provisional cast-on and seams the handles in place rather than attaching them with the three-needle bind off. So, it's your choice how you want to make it, and you'll find the second set of instructions following the first!
Yarn: Lily Sugar 'n Cream (100% Cotton; 95 yards [86 meters]/56.7 grams); #02739 Over the Rainbow - 4 skeins
A close-up of the chevron pattern |
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 7 needles
Let's begin with the handles! Using your largest gauge needles and the provisional cast-on technique (we'll be working back-and-forth for these guys, and using a three-needle bind off to attach them to the top of the bag so we want live stitches on either end of each handle), cast on 9 stitches. Transfer stitches to any of your size 7 needles and knit the following set-up rows:
Set-up Rows 1 & 3: knit
Set-up Rows 2 & 4: purl
Now, we'll begin to work I-cord edgings on to both sides of the handle, which are accomplished simply by slipping stitches. Or in other words, we'll be knitting like so:
Handle Row 1: slip 3 stitches with yarn in back, k3, slip 3 stitches with yarn in back
Handle Row 2: p3, k3, p3
Work handle rows 1 & 2 until handle measures about 13" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Then, knit your set up rows again. Once those four rows are done, transfer live stitches to a piece of scrap yarn to hold. Make another.
Once your handles are done, it's time to begin the bag. So, using your largest 24" circular needle and the provisional cast-on technique, cast on 120 stitches. Transfer to your size 7 24" needle, place marker, and join in round. Then knit the following set-up rows:
Set-up Rows 1 & 2: * k3, p3; rep from *
Set-up Row 3: * p3, k9 *
Once you've knit these rows, it's time to move on to our main pattern, which is a variation of Daintier Chevron from page 275 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. So let's keep going like so:
Rows 1 & 2: * p3, k1, ssk, (k1, yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1 *
Row 3: * p3, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1 *
Row 4: * p3, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2 *
Row 5: * p3, k3, yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, yo, k3 *
Knit rows 1 - 5 fourteen times. Then, we'll begin the decreases at the bottom of the bag, like so:
Decrease Row 1: * p3, k9 *
Decrease Row 2: * p2tog, p1, k9 *
Decrease Rows 3 - 5: * p2, k9 *
Decrease Row 6: * p2tog, k9 *
Decrease Rows 7 - 9: * p1, k9 *
You may want to switch to your 16" needle about now...
Decrease Row 10: * ssk, k8 *
Decrease Rows 11 & 12: knit
Decrease Row 13: * ssk, k7 *
Decrease Rows 14 & 15: knit
Decrease Row 16: * ssk, k6 *
Decrease Row 17: knit
You may want to switch to your dpns about now...
Decrease Row 18: * ssk, k5 *
Decrease Row 19: knit
Decrease Row 20: * ssk, k4 *
Decrease Row 21: knit
Decrease Row 22: * ssk, k3 *
Decrease Row 23: knit
Decrease Row 24: * ssk, k2 *
Decrease Row 25: knit
Decrease Row 26: * ssk, k1 *
Decrease Row 27: * ssk *
Clip tail, thread through final 10 stitches, and pull tight. And now that most of the body of the bag is done, we're going to work a few more border rows and then bind off and seam the handles. So, pick up your provisionally cast on stitches using your 24" size 7 needle, place row marker, and then proceed as follows. Note that you may need to un-twist your provisional stitches, but that the pattern of the bag will also effectively hide it if a few remain twisted.
Border Rows 1 & 2: * k3, p3 *
Border Rows 3 & 4: * p3, k3 *
Border Rows 5 & 6: repeat rows 1 & 2
Once these six rows are complete, it's time to bind off. We are going to attach the handles to the bag using a three needle bind-off, and bind off the rest of piece normally. You can look at the tutorial I've linked to for some guidance, and I'll also walk you through it below.
First, then, bind off 12 stitches normally, purling the purls and knitting the knit stitches. You should now have 1 stitch on your right-hand needle, and you should be about to begin a set of nine stitches that turn into our nine-stitch chevron below. Place the live stitches from one end of one of your handles onto one of your dpns and place it next to bag, with right sides together. Transfer the stitch on your right-hand needle to your larger gauge needle for the purposes of the three needle bind off.
The handle, the live stitches, and my larger needle holding a stitch |
Inserting as if to knit |
Looping yarn around needle |
Sliding stitches from needle |
Binding off |
Alternate Instructions:
Let's start with the handles! Using any set of your size 7 needles, cast on 9 stitches loosely. Then work the following four set-up rows:
Set-up Rows 1 & 3: knit
Set-up Rows 2 & 4: purl
Now, we'll begin to work I-cord edgings on to both sides of the handle, which are accomplished simply by slipping stitches. Or in other words, we'll be knitting like so:
Handle Row 1: slip 3 stitches with yarn in back, k3, slip 3 stitches with yarn in back
Handle Row 2: p3, k3, p3
Work handle rows 1 & 2 until handle measures about 13" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Then, knit your set up rows again. Once those four rows are done, bind off loosely. Make another handle.
Now, it's time to work the bag. Using your 24" size 7 needle, cast on 120 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work the following border rows:
Border Rows 1 & 2: * p3, k3; rep from *
Border Rows 3 & 4: * k3, p3 *
Border Rows 5 & 6: repeats rows 1 & 2
Border Rows 7 & 8: repeat rows 3 & 4
Border Row 9: * p3, k9 *
Once you've knit these rows, it's time to move on to our main pattern, which is a variation of Daintier Chevron from page 275 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. So let's keep going like so:
Rows 1 & 2: * p3, k1, ssk, (k1, yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1 *
Row 3: * p3, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1 *
Row 4: * p3, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2 *
Row 5: * p3, k3, yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso, yo, k3 *
Knit rows 1 - 5 fourteen times. Then, we'll begin the decreases at the bottom of the bag, like so:
Decrease Row 1: * p3, k9 *
Decrease Row 2: * p2tog, p1, k9 *
Decrease Rows 3 - 5: * p2, k9 *
Decrease Row 6: * p2tog, k9 *
Decrease Rows 7 - 9: * p1, k9 *
You may want to switch to your 16" needle about now...
Decrease Row 10: * ssk, k8 *
Decrease Rows 11 & 12: knit
Decrease Row 13: * ssk, k7 *
Decrease Rows 14 & 15: knit
Decrease Row 16: * ssk, k6 *
Decrease Row 17: knit
You may want to switch to your dpns about now...
Decrease Row 18: * ssk, k5 *
Decrease Row 19: knit
Decrease Row 20: * ssk, k4 *
Decrease Row 21: knit
Decrease Row 22: * ssk, k3 *
Decrease Row 23: knit
Decrease Row 24: * ssk, k2 *
Decrease Row 25: knit
Decrease Row 26: * ssk, k1 *
Decrease Row 27: * ssk *
Clip tail, thread through final 10 stitches, and pull tight. Seam handles as shown, so each handle base lines up with a chevron stripe and that the two ends of the handle have two stripes between them. Tuck in ends and block.
See! I can block things. |
The three-needle bind off sure does make a pretty seam! |
Thank you!! I just finished my first Little Arrowhead fingerless glove. Your pattern was so well thought out and written . I have finally come back to lace and succeeded. I love how you made the thumb part of the pattern as it went along. Very clever. THanks. Im posting about your pattern on my blog today : irisheyesknitters.blogspot.com. Thanks again
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad to hear you had luck with my pattern! And I'll check out your blog - I love to see pictures :)
DeleteLove your yarn choice! And your dog & sheep pics... :)
DeleteI love your site's name! While I am not a great knitter, I am going to "attempt" this pattern! Thanks for posting the pattern.
DeleteThank you, it took me a long time to find a knitting pun that wasn't taken (although I'm not sure why no one had snapped this one up!)! And please, let me know if you have any questions!!! :)
DeleteI love the Pattern and I love these colors. I have just the yarn to make this out of! Thanks for sharing all your patterns.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to hear it! Let me know if you have any questions about the pattern. :)
DeleteExcuse me for being a novice- this maybe a dumb questions. For the *alternate pattern* once the handles are done its says to
ReplyDelete"Now, it's time to work the bag. Using your 24" size 7 needle, cast on 120 stitches. Then we'll work the following border rows:"
Are we not supposed to "join in the round" like the original pattern? If not are we supposed to just seam the sides?
Thanks for this pattern!!
Hi there!
DeleteYou are totally right - this should instruct you to join it in the round. I'll get it fixed, and please let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Could somebody please tell.me what the measurements are for the bag?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThe bag is about 24" in circumference and roughly 12" from the top to the beginning of the bottom decreases. :)
Can you please tell me what "ssk" means. I found two versions of the abrev. Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi there! An ssk is a slip, slip, knit, which is a left-leaning two-to-one decrease. You can find more information here: http://knitting.about.com/od/knittingglossary/g/slip-slip-knit.htm. You can also find a link to my glossary at the top of the page - that should help clear up most terminology-related questions! :)
DeleteWhy do you use a size 10 or 10.5 needle to do provisional cast on? I have not done provisional cast on that much but when I have I have used crochet hook. So not understanding why the bigger needle. Could I do the cast on using a crochet hook would it matter?
ReplyDeleteHi Tammy!
DeleteFirst off; nope, if you're using a crochet hook don't worry about the needle thing in the slightest. Do what you ordinarily do! And the reason for the bigger needle is if you're using knitting needles to cast on and you're pulling your yarn tight around your scrap yarn; then your stitches could get too small of you don't cast on with a bigger needle. :)