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| Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves |
You know what? I'm not even gonna intro these fingerless gloves. And you know why? Because Rihanna can definitely do it better -- not only was her song "Diamonds" the inspiration for the name of the Shine Bright Fingerless Gloves, but her video has it all; finger tattoos, wild horses, and burning roses. It's almost like my eleven-year-old self directed this video, except I would have included more crying in the rain. Ah, to be young again...
Sizes: smaller (for a hand roughly 7 1/2" - 8" in circumference at the base of the thumb) and larger (for a hand roughly 8 1/2" - 9" in circumference at the base of the thumb) - directions for larger size will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses
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| A bit closer look at the pattern. |
Needles: one set of double-pointed needles in size US 7, one set of double-pointed needles in size US 5
Notions: Tapestry needle
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles
And now that we've gotten that out of our system, let's make some gloves! So, using your size 5 needles, cast on 38 stitches (44 stitches) and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 13 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 13 on your third (place 13 stitches on your first needle, 18 on your second, and 13 on your third). Join in round. Then, knit the following set-up row 4 times (as you can see, it's different for the two sizes, but I've also used parentheses in the instructions for the smaller size. That's to indicate that a direction is repeated, and will occur again in the notation. Just remember that the alternate larger instructions will always occur after the smaller instructions in each row, and not in the middle of them):
Set-up Row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 (larger size: (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)
Once you've knit this row 4 times, switch to your size 7 needles. To continue, we'll also need the following notation:
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
And now that we've got that down, let's move on to the main pattern, which goes as follows. Notice that many of the rows are different for the two sizes; however, if there's nothing in parentheses after a given row, they're the same.
Row 1: knit across first needle, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 2 & all even rows: knit
Row 3: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 5: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 15: knit across first needle, k3, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k6, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round)
Row 16: knit
Knit rows 1 - 16 twice, and then knit rows 1 - 2 again. Now we'll begin gusseting in the thumbs. Once again, notice the difference in rows between the two sizes.
Row 1: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 2: knit (knit until there are 12 stitches left on first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of first and second needles, k12 from third needle, m1l, knit until end of round)
Row 3: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 & 14: knit until there are 12 stitches left on first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of first and second needles, k12 from third needle, m1l, knit until end of round
Row 5: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k3, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k6, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 14. Then, on your next row, knit across first 7 (8) stitches and then thread these stitches and the final 7 (8) stitches from needle 3 onto a scrap of yarn, to work later as thumb. And now, we'll resume our pattern, joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break. So let's continue like so:
Row 1: m1r, knit across first needle, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round, m1l (m1r, knit across first needle, k5, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round, m1l)
Row 2 & all even rows: knit
Row 3: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 5: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Knit rows 1 - 13 and then switch to your size 5 needles. We're going back to our set-up row for 3 rows now. Here's a reminder of what it looks like:
Set-up Row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 ((p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)
Once you've knit this row 3 times, bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. And when that's done, let's do the thumb. So, transfer your thumb stitches to your size 7 dpns, making sure to place stitches from before and after the break on a single needle (the break being where you rejoined the glove in a round after working your thumb gusset). Knit around, picking up two extra stitches at the break when you get there. Knit four rows around in total, and then switch to your size 5 needles and knit two more rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing. Bind off loosely in pattern, and tuck in ends. Make another glove, if you're so inclined.
And now that we've gotten that out of our system, let's make some gloves! So, using your size 5 needles, cast on 38 stitches (44 stitches) and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 13 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 13 on your third (place 13 stitches on your first needle, 18 on your second, and 13 on your third). Join in round. Then, knit the following set-up row 4 times (as you can see, it's different for the two sizes, but I've also used parentheses in the instructions for the smaller size. That's to indicate that a direction is repeated, and will occur again in the notation. Just remember that the alternate larger instructions will always occur after the smaller instructions in each row, and not in the middle of them):
Set-up Row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 (larger size: (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)
Once you've knit this row 4 times, switch to your size 7 needles. To continue, we'll also need the following notation:
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
And now that we've got that down, let's move on to the main pattern, which goes as follows. Notice that many of the rows are different for the two sizes; however, if there's nothing in parentheses after a given row, they're the same.
Row 1: knit across first needle, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 2 & all even rows: knit
Row 3: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 5: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 15: knit across first needle, k3, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k6, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round)
Row 16: knit
Knit rows 1 - 16 twice, and then knit rows 1 - 2 again. Now we'll begin gusseting in the thumbs. Once again, notice the difference in rows between the two sizes.
Row 1: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 2: knit (knit until there are 12 stitches left on first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of first and second needles, k12 from third needle, m1l, knit until end of round)
Row 3: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 & 14: knit until there are 12 stitches left on first needle, m1r, knit across remainder of first and second needles, k12 from third needle, m1l, knit until end of round
Row 5: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k3, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k6, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, knit until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 14. Then, on your next row, knit across first 7 (8) stitches and then thread these stitches and the final 7 (8) stitches from needle 3 onto a scrap of yarn, to work later as thumb. And now, we'll resume our pattern, joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break. So let's continue like so:
Row 1: m1r, knit across first needle, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round, m1l (m1r, knit across first needle, k5, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, knit until end of round, m1l)
Row 2 & all even rows: knit
Row 3: knit across first needle, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 5: knit across first needle, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 7: knit across first needle, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (k1-tbl, k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 9: knit across first needle, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k3, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 11: knit across first needle, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k4, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Row 13: knit across first needle, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round (knit across first needle, k5, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, knit until end of round)
Knit rows 1 - 13 and then switch to your size 5 needles. We're going back to our set-up row for 3 rows now. Here's a reminder of what it looks like:
Set-up Row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1 ((p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times)
Once you've knit this row 3 times, bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. And when that's done, let's do the thumb. So, transfer your thumb stitches to your size 7 dpns, making sure to place stitches from before and after the break on a single needle (the break being where you rejoined the glove in a round after working your thumb gusset). Knit around, picking up two extra stitches at the break when you get there. Knit four rows around in total, and then switch to your size 5 needles and knit two more rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing. Bind off loosely in pattern, and tuck in ends. Make another glove, if you're so inclined.
I love fingerless gloves. :) And I love the color on these.
ReplyDeleteYay! Me too. They're so good for dealing with car seats!
DeleteI've never had to deal with car seats. Hahaha... Kidless friend. :) But I like em for texting.
DeleteSo many uses!
DeleteMy daughter is a musician/performance artist. I can see these in navy with battery operated twinkly lights woven in. Thank you for the idea for the Christmas present. You rock!
ReplyDeleteThat sounds awesome! If you make them, please share a picture (preferably an action shot!). And it sounds like your daughter definitely rocks more than me, but I'll take the compliment anyway :)
DeleteHi - do you have to change the pattern for making the second glove?
ReplyDeleteHi Helen!
DeleteNo, no you don't. That's the beauty part of doing a glove with the pattern along the arm, rather than at the top of the hand!!! :)
Brilliant - thanks for replying, going to attempt these as Christmas presents and don't want to just give them gloves for one hand :-)
ReplyDeleteUnderstandable - I don't think that's a look that would work for a lot of people! :)
DeleteHello! What a cute pattern! I'm trying to figure out the "Set-Up Row," but the double parenthesis at the end are confusing me. I'm making the smaller size version of the gloves, and if I take the parenthesis out that belong to the larger size I see "k1, 9 times, 9 times, k1" which doesn't make much sense. Can you help me interpret? Thanks! Can't wait to see how they turn out!
ReplyDeleteHi Katie! I can totally see why you're confused - I have used parentheses for two different reasons, one to indicate the larger size pattern and one to indicate which direction needs repeating! I will see if I can modify it to be more clear. In the meantime, your row looks like this: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1. Or in other words, don't omit the stuff between those sets of parentheses, just the stuff in the other set of parentheses (yes, this row definitely needs help)!
DeleteHope that helps! And please, let me know if you have any more questions - I'm always happy to help :)
Ahh! That makes perfect sense! I figured it was something like that, but I wanted to be sure. Thanks so much!
Deletep.s. Maybe use [these type] of brackets to help differentiate? Might help clear up confusion. :)
I was wondering if these could be knit on circular needles? I am terrified of double pointed needles (afraid I will drop stitches off). Thank you. Beautiful fingerless mitts!! And thank you so much for sharing. Happy New Year.
ReplyDeleteRobin
Hi Robin!
DeleteIt sounds like you need the magic loop - video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdSpc0EZpnk
And if you do end up doing this, for a pattern like this, where things are measured by the number of stitches on each needle, you can go ahead and place markers where the breaks in the needles would occur. :)
Thank you for posting this pattern. The diamonds make this look clean and it isn't that difficult to knit. I was looking online for a pattern and found this one.
ReplyDeleteHi Ginny!
DeleteI'm glad to hear you like the pattern! Clean and not-that-difficult to knit is what I aim for :)
I am confused about the second part of the pattern where you knit 1-14 (when you have started the m1r and m1l in the pattern.) Do you actually knit rows 1-14 twice or are you simply stating it: (See below)
ReplyDelete"Knit rows 1 - 14. Then, on your next row, knit across first 7 (8) stitches and then thread these stitches and the final 7 (8) stitches from needle 3 onto a scrap of yarn, to work later as thumb. And now, we'll resume our pattern, joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break. So let's continue like so:"
Hi Jennifer!
DeleteI am simply stating that you should knit rows 1 - 14, and not that you should knit them twice. Please let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Are the needle sizes US?
ReplyDeleteYup! I will update the pattern to reflect that as well. :)
DeleteThese are so beautiful, but I really don't like to knit on double-pointed needles in the round. Any way I could make these on regular straight needles?
ReplyDeleteHi Kelly!
DeleteYes, I could help you convert this pattern. The only thing that gets a bit dodgy is the thumbs, since I would have to make up a design for you that I hadn't knit (although I'm confident they would work out, I just like to issue warnings when I'm designing stuff I haven't actually knit). Anyway, let me know if that appeals to you and I'll get started! :)
I would like to do this pattern with straight needles as well. A conversion would be awesome. Thanks these look great and I don't have any Dpn 's.
ReplyDeleteSure, give me a day or two and I'll post something back! :)
DeleteOkay, you can find the pattern conversion below! And, as a note (and as always when I convert), I haven't knit this, so please let me know if you see something funky! Oh, and I have to post it in two comments, since it exceeds the maximum length! :)
DeleteNeedles: one pair of straight needles in size US 5, one pair of straight needles in size US 7
So let’s make some gloves! We’ll begin with the thumbs. Using your size 5 needles, then, cast on 15 (19) stitches loosely. Then knit the following two edging rows:
Edging Row 1 (wrong side): purl
Edging Row 2: knit
And once these two rows are done, switch to your size 7 needles. Then we'll continue like so:
Row 1: purl
Row 2: knit
Row 3: purl
Knit rows 1 - 3, and then we'll begin the bind off rows at the bottom of the thumb. So let's work like so:
Bind Off Row 1 (right side): bind off one stitch, knit until end of row
Bind Off Row 2: bind off one stitch, purl until end of row
Work these two bind off rows until you have 3 stitches left on needle, at which point you should have just finished a wrong side row. Bind off on your next right side row. Then, make another!
Once these are done, we’ll continue with the mitts as follows. First, cast on 40 stitches (46 stitches) loosely. Then, we’ll knit some set-up rows, as follows
Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): p2, (k1, p1) 9 times, (p1, k1) 9 times, p2 (larger size: p1, (k1, p1) 11 times, (p1, k1) 11 times, p1)
Set-up Row 2: k2, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k2 (larger size: k1, (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times, k1)
Set-up Row 3: same as set-up row 1
Set-up Row 4: same as set-up row 2
Set-up Row 5: p14, place marker, p12, place marker, p14 (p17, place marker, p12, place marker, p17)
Knit set-up rows 1- 5, and then switch to your size 7 needles. Then we’ll move to our main pattern; please note that the rows are the same for both sizes.
Row 1 (right side): knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2, slip marker, knit until end of row
DeleteRow 2 & all even rows: purl
Row 3: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 5: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 7: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, (k1-tbl (through back loop), k1) twice, k4, (k1, k1-tbl) twice, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 9: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 11: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 13: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, k2, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 15: knit until you reach first marker, k3, k1-tbl, k1, rt, k1, k1-tbl, k3, slip marker, knit until end of row
Row 16: knit
Knit rows 1 - 16 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 13 again. Transfer work back to your size US 5 needles. Then we’ll go back to our set-up rows, as follows:
Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): p2, (k1, p1) 9 times, (p1, k1) 9 times, p2 (larger size: p1, (k1, p1) 11 times, (p1, k1) 11 times, p1)
Set-up Row 2: k2, (p1, k1) 9 times, (k1, p1) 9 times, k2 (larger size: k1, (p1, k1) 11 times, (k1, p1) 11 times, k1)
Set-up Row 3: same as set-up row 1
Knit set-up rows 1 – 3 and then bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. And now that your mitts and thumbs are done, it's time to assemble these bad boys! First, seam the thumb along the edging and main body rows (so stop seaming once the decreases begin). Next, measure the raw edge of the thumb, so you know how big of a hole to leave when you seam the mitts. I recommend putting the bind-off edge of each mitt at the top/finger edge of the mitt, so seam from that top edge down to where you want the thumb to begin (my measurement recommendations: seam down to 1.75" (2.25"). Then leave the required gap for the thumb, and seam the bottom edge of the mitt. Finally, seam thumb to mitt, lining thumb seam up with top seam of mitt. Repeat for second mitt, and tuck in ends.
To those who avoid DPNs (double pointed needles), I used to avoid them, but I got so tired of pulling the cable through using the magic loop method that I gave DPNs a try. I tried DPNs late in a sock pattern. I discovered the difficulty was getting started at the very beginning of a project. Once I tried them on an established project, I found I could work with them. Love them now!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the encouragement! :)
DeleteIs it okay to sell the finished product? Sorry might be a stupid question but I just want to get permission. I just quit my job to stay home with my little one and I was trying to find ways to earn a little extra around the holidays. Thx
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteYup, it's fine to sell - I just ask that you provide a link to my site if you're selling online. And good luck!!! :)