Friday, March 14, 2014

Tons of Triangles Cowl

Tons of Triangles Cowl

As promised, the yarns from the Field of Tulips Cowl are making a reappearance (and yes, that means that those three skeins will get you both of these cowls, plus whatever I decide to make with the leftover reddish one). And for this pattern, I mixed a slipped stitch triangle pattern with an overall triangle theme for an effect that's a bit tribal and of a larger size (when folded in half, which is how I blocked it for the crease effect, the piece measures about 15" along the neck and 20" along the bottom). Overall, it's also a pretty striking knit, and reasonably fun to make as well.

Oh, the triangles!
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% Pima Cotton, 20% Merino Wool; 191 yards [175 meters]/100 grams); #03 Vanilla - one skein (color A), #21 Royal Blue - one skein (color B)

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 8

Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Using color A, cast on 166 stitches, place marker, and join in round. K63, place marker, k40, place another marker, and knit until the end of the round. Then, we'll knit one set-up row, which goes as follows:

Set-up Row: using color A, p2, * k2, p1; rep from * until you are one stitch before first marker, p1; then, slip marker, and knit until second marker, slip marker, and then p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before end of round, p1

And now, let's move on to the main pattern, which is a combination of Chain of Triangles from page 100 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and another slipped stitch pattern. So let's keep going!

Row 1: using color B, k1, kfb, * slip 1, k3, slip 1, (k1, p1, k1) into next stitch * until you're 7 stitches before first marker, slip 1, k3, slip 1, kfb, k1; then, slip marker, slip 1, knit until you're one stitch before next marker, slip 1, slip marker; finally, k1, kfb, * slip 1, k3, slip 1, (k1, p1, k1) into next stitch * until you're 7 stitches before end of round, slip 1, k3, slip 1, kfb, k1

Row 2: using color B, k3, * slip 1, k3 * until you reach first marker, then, slip marker, slip 1, ssk, knit until you're three stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip 1, slip marker; finally, k3, * slip 1, k3 * until end of round

Row 3: using color A, k3, * ssk, slip 1, k2tog, k3 * until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, slip 2, and knit until end of second marker; then, slip marker, k3, and * ssk, slip 1, k2tog, k3 * until the end of the round

Row 4: using color A, p3, * k1, slip 1, k1, p3 * until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, slip 2, p2tog, purl until you're three stitches before second marker, p2tog, k1; then, slip marker, p3, * k1, slip 1, k1, p3 * until end of round

Row 5: using color B, k2, kfb, * (slip 1, knit 1) twice, (k1, p1, k1) in next stitch, k1 * until you're six stitches before first marker, slip 1, k1, slip 1, kfb, k2, slip marker, slip 1, knit until you have one stitch before second marker, slip 1, and slip marker; then, k2, kfb, * (slip 1, knit 1) twice, (k1, p1, k1) in next stitch, k1 * until you're six stitches before end of round, slip 1, k1, slip 1, kfb, k2

Row 6: using color B, k4, * slip 1, k1, slip 1, k5 *, ending your last repeat before first marker k4 instead; then, slip marker, slip 1, ssk, knit until you're three stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip 1, slip marker; finally, k4, * slip 1, k1, slip 1, k5 *, ending your last repeat k4

Row 7: using color A, k4, * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k5 *, ending your last repeat before first marker k4 instead; then, slip marker, knit until you have three stitches left before your second marker, slip 2, k1, and slip marker; then, k4, * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k5 *, ending your last repeat before end of round k4

Row 8: using color A, p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before first marker, p1; then, slip marker, k1, p2tog, purl until you have five stitches left before your second marker, p2tog, slip 2, k1, and slip marker; then, p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before end of round, p1

Knit rows 1 - 8 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 7 once more. Then, we're going to replace row 8 with the following transition row:

Transition row: using color A, p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before first marker, k1; then, remove first marker, slip1-k2tog-psso, slip2-k2tog-p2sso, k3tog, remove second marker; finally, k1, p1 * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before end of round, p1

And now we'll be knitting just the triangle pattern around, or in knitting terms:

Row 1: using color B, k1, kfb, * slip 1, k3, slip 1, (k1, p1, k1) into next stitch * until you're 7 stitches before the end of the round, slip 1, k3, slip 1, kfb, k1

Row 2: using color B, k3, * slip 1, k3 *

Row 3: using color A, k3, * ssk, slip 1, k2tog, k3 *

Row 4: using color A, p3, * k1, slip 1, k1, p3 *

Row 5: using color B, k2, kfb, * (slip 1, knit 1) twice, (k1, p1, k1) in next stitch, k1 * until you're six stitches before the end of the round, slip 1, k1, slip 1, kfb, k2

Row 6: using color B, k4, * slip 1, k1, slip 1, k5 *, ending your last repeat before the end of the round k4 instead

Row 7: using color A, k4, * slip 1-k2tog-psso, k5 *, ending your last repeat before the end of the round k4 instead

Row 8: using color A, p2, * k2, p1 * until you are one stitch before the end of the round, p1

Knit rows 1 - 8 twice through, and then bind off loosely, purling the purl stitches and knitting the knit stitches. Tuck in ends and block to prevent from curling.



The back. Of course.
The triangle pattern at the bottom.

16 comments:

  1. Oh what a beautiful project, Im going to knit this!

    Thankyou so much for sharing I love your projects xxx

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm glad to hear you like it; I thought this one turned out nicely. And please, if you're ever knitting any of my patterns and have questions, let me know. I'm always happy to help :)

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  2. Hi! This pattern is beautiful! I really want to make it as a gift for my sister. Do you mind if I ask a few questions about it?

    1) As far as the two colors go, how do you deal with switching from one to the other? Do you just have lots of weaving in strands at the end (that can't be right) or do you hold in back somehow? I'm sorry. I've never done a pattern like this, so if you could link to a video or just give me the name of the technique I can google it.

    2) Can you explain what "slip 1, k3, slip 1, (k1, p1, k1) into next stitch" this means, specifically the "into the next stitch" part. I know the abbreviations and everything, I've just never seen that prhasing in a pattern before. Does it mean to k1, p1, k1 into one stitch before dropping it from the left needle?

    Sorry for my confusion!

    Also, I wanted to tell you that I've made FIVE pairs of your Staghorn Fingerless Gloves for all the women in my family. Love your website!

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    1. Hi Jennifer! I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying my patterns. :) And I've answered your questions below!

      1) I hold the colors in back and work them when needed. I know I've found web tutorials on this before, but I'm not coming up with any of them now. Basically, you just want to twist your colors around each other so they lie neatly and without holes. Oh, here's one that shows the back: http://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/03/09/stripes-in-the-round/ Maybe that will help?

      2) The (k1, p1, k1) in next stitch is, indeed, an increase where you turn one stitch into three. So it sounds like you have it exactly right - k1, p1, k1 in one stitch and then drop it from the needle!

      Let me know if you have any other questions. :)

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    2. Thanks so much for responding. I'm going to my local yarn shop tomorrow to get started on this project!

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    3. Wonderful! Let me know if anything else comes up! :)

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    4. Hi! I finished knitting this. It knitted up a lot faster than I thought it would. I need to block it as you suggested in the pattern. Can you give me any suggestions as to how you blocked it out. I want it to fit well on the shoulders and neck.

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    5. Hi Jennifer! I soaked it in cold water for about 20 minutes, then squeezed/patted it a bit dry with a towel (just don't twist or wring it!). Then I simply folded it in half down the middle (so my fold was at the back seam and right through the middle front) and pinned it on a towel to dry flat!

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    6. Thanks so much! I'll do that tonight!

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    7. Wonderful! I hope it turns out beautifully. :)

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  3. Lovely cowl. I want to try it in some new Miss Babs Caroline and Anzula Cloud that I have laying around. They are both quite fine, using a US#3. Can you tell me what the stitch repeat is so that I can adjust my cast on numbers? Thank you! Diane

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    1. Hi Diane!

      For the triangle pattern you're going to need a multiple of 6 + 3 stitches (which is why I start with 63 stitches between the row marker and the 1st marker and the 3rd marker and the row marker - 60 is a multiple of 6, and then you add 3). However, this pattern also contains shaping in the front part - that whole middle panel has decreases so it reduces in size. If you want to keep the shape of the cowl more true, you'll need to adjust the number of stitches between the 1st and 2nd markers as well. If you give me a bit more information about your gauge I can help you with that as well! :)

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  4. Thank you! I will give it a try and send you pictures when it is complete... :)

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    1. Wonderful! Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

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  5. Hi Gretchen
    I’ve been in love with this cowl for quite awhile. Finally working up courage to try it. I have some 100% pima cotton yarn that I’d like to use. It says the gauge is 22-24 stitches =4” on us 5-6. I was using the yarn to make sweater and used size 7 but I’m assuming I’d need to increase number stitches. Could you help me?
    Thank u
    Amy

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    1. Hi Amy!

      Glad to hear you're ready to get started. :) And I think you have a lot of flexibility with options here - I'll outline three of the ones that seem the best to me!

      1) First, and easiest - you could use size 7 needles and just cast on as written - the cowl will be a bit smaller, depending on your exact gauge, but should still be plenty big to fit over your head, etc.

      2) If you want to maintain more or less the same size, then you can use size US 6 needles, cast on 36 more stitches, and divide them as follows: "K81, place marker, k40, place another marker, and knit until the end of the round." (I wouldn't change the number in the middle; the difference in scale shouldn't be terribly noticeable and you can always add length at the end if you'd like if it's a bit shorter). You should be able to follow the pattern with that stitch distribution.

      3) (and sort of most complicated) You could add a different number of stitches - either 12 or 24, and then distribute them on either side of the middle bit evenly (so put 6 or 12 before the first marker, then 6 or 12 after the second). This gives you a bit more flexibility if your gauge is more like 20 stitches per 4 inches.

      All in all, though, I wouldn't stress about it! This pattern is big enough, and your yarn is close enough in size, that any solution should work! :)

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