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| Fan Lace Hat |
Well, I figured it was high time for me to use the rest of this yarn. And after completing the Field of Tulips Cowl and the Tons of Triangles Cowl, all I had left was the reddish color, and just enough for a slouchy, spring-weight hat. Therefore, the Fan Lace Hat was born. And it's a fun knit, if I may say so myself!
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| The fan lace pattern, closer-up |
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 8, one 16" circular needle in size US 6
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles
So let's do this thing! First of all, then, using your size 6 needle, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll begin with this ribbing row:
Ribbing Row: * (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from *
Knit ribbing row 6 times and then switch to your size 8 needle and knit the following transition row:
Transition Row: * k1, p1, kfb, p1, k1 * (120 stitches)
And now, it's time to move to our pattern, which is a slight variation on Fan Lace from page 216 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows:
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit
Row 2: * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *
Row 4: * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *
Row 6: * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1 *
Row 8: * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, k1 *
Knit rows 1 - 8 three times (you could even knit one more repeat, if you desire an extra-slouchy hat and have enough yarn). And now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:
Decrease row 1: knit
Row 2: * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3 through back loops, k1, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 * (110 stitches)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2 through back loops, k1, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 * (100 stitches)
Row 5: * k14, sl1-k2tog-psso, k3 * (90 stitches)
Row 6: * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 * (80 stitches)
You'll probably want to switch to your dpns right about now, if you haven't already
Row 7: * k12, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1 * (70 stitches)
Row 8: * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, sl1-k2tog-psso * (60 stitches)
Row 9: * ssk, k7, k2tog, k1 * (50 stitches)
Row 10: * ssk, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k2tog, k1 * (40 stitches)
Row 11: * ssk, k3, k2tog, k1 * (30 stitches)
Row 12: * k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2 * (20 stitches)
Row 13: * sl1-k2tog-psso, k1 * (10 stitches)
Clip tail, thread through remaining 10 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.
That's a b. e. a-utiful design and I love the slouch.
ReplyDeleteSince you seem to love to design, could you make recommendations to make this more chemo-patient friendly? Something smaller, no slouch perhaps? I love having options to take to our Infusion Unit ;)
I'm glad you like my design! I think the best way to convert this to a less-slouchy shape (without completely rewriting the pattern) would be as follows:
DeleteInstead of using a worsted-weight yarn, use a sport weight yarn where 23 stitches = 4 inches. You'll probably be knitting on a size 4 or 5 16" circular needle to accomplish this. Then, using a 16" circular needle that's one size smaller than your gauge size, cast on 120 stitches, and complete 6-8 repeats of a simple k1, p1 ribbing (depending on how long you want the ribbed section - and the reason I don't recommend the ribbing as given is that it won't line up with the pattern in this variation). Anyway, once you're done with that, change to your gauge-size needle, skip the transition row, and move straight to the pattern as given. You will probably need to knit the pattern rows one more time than I did (you'll want the hat to measure 6 or so inches before you begin the decreases), but other than that, the directions should be exactly the same, and the hat won't puff out after the ribbing any more, but fit closer to the head instead. Hope that helps!
I love all your patterns.
ReplyDeleteThanks Debby, I'm glad to hear it! Please let me know if you ever choose to knit any of them and have trouble. I'm always happy to help :)
DeletePortuguês do Brasil:Eu adoro gorros, e os seus,são maravilhosos!! Agora, vou tentar escrever em Inglês, mas entenda, eu não sei falar inglês bem, ok? Um grande abraço!!
ReplyDeleteEnglish: I love hats, and yours, are wonderful!! Now, I am trying to write in english, but you must undestand that I don't know speak english well, ok? A big hug!!
Well, your English is definitely better than my Portuguese! And I'm glad to hear you like my patterns :) If you every knit any and have questions, please let me know!
DeleteGretchen,
ReplyDeleteI love this pattern, but it doesn't have the number of stitches per line. Do you have them, it will make it easier for me to knit.
Thank you!
Hi! I've been out of town, so I apologize for the delayed response. But I will get to this just as soon as I can - worst case scenario it will be later this afternoon, and hopefully sooner! :)
DeleteWhen ever you can, its a holiday weekend.
ReplyDeleteThey should be up now! Let me know if that's not what you mean, though :)
DeleteThank you, I just don't see it for the pattern part. Sorry to bug you!!
ReplyDeleteNo worries! There is no change in stitch count for any of the pattern rows - the 120 stitches are maintained, with a 12 stitch pattern repeat. Is that what you're asking?
DeleteThank you!!
ReplyDeleteI love, love, love this pattern! So well written and so much fun to watch it take shape! I will make another! Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHi Jane!
DeleteI'm so glad to hear it! Can't beat a pretty hat :)
Help please I'm working on this pattern down to row 8 of dec's I put all 70 sts on dpn which took 5 needles evenly space. I now know this was a mistake. Can I use a straight needle to get to my next step? Will this ruin the hat? I don't have another dpn. Will you help me move on to my next step ? Thank you . Cassandra
ReplyDeleteHi Cassandra!
DeleteSorry for the delay in replying - yesterday was busy with the kids! Anyway, just distribute your stitches on three dpns and you should be fine (even if you can't distribute your stitches exactly evenly). You may need to scoot a stitch or two between needles at some point, but it should definitely work out! Let me know if that doesn't make sense or if you have any more questions - I should be quicker to reply during the week :)
Hi Gretchen Tracy!
ReplyDeleteI know how it is when you have little ones. It makes sense to me I have taken care of that problem, I have a even bigger problem while I was putting the stitches on dpn's some of the stitches fell off the needles and I don't have a clue on how to fix lace stitches on dpn's. I can't find the lose stitches all I see are long loops. That is one reason why I don't like using dpn's. And this is my first lace hat. Can you help me please. Thank you in advance. Cassandra
Hello again!
DeleteUnfortunately, I have no magic solutions (wouldn't that be nice!). However, I did find this youtube video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3D18epTwq0. It shows what dropped yo's look like and how to fix them. As a last resort, if you're unable to find your yo's, you can always also rip out a few rows very carefully and pick your stitches back up a few rows down. And please, let me know if I've misunderstood your problem and I'll try to find another resource for you! :)
I am hoping to knit this hat but need to buy the circular needles, are the sizes UK or US? Could you please advise, thank you.
ReplyDeleteThey are US! I am trying to add this info to my new patterns (and I'll update this one now), and I apologize for the confusion :)
DeleteThank you. I have got my circular needles 16" (40cm), but they look a bit small?
DeleteDo you mean that 16" looks too small for a hat? Don't worry, you can fit 20-some inches of stitches on a 16" needle, and this hat is definitely sized for adults! :)
DeleteI don't know what it means to 'knit through the back loop', because all my knit stitches are in the back of my work. I knit Eastern European style.
ReplyDeleteHi Kay!
DeleteThe purpose of knitting through the back loop is to twist the stitch. As far as your question is concerned, I am not familiar with Eastern European style, but I looked a video up on YouTube, and it seems like you would twist a stitch by simply knitting through the front loop. I may be wrong about this (since I don't knit this way and watched a basic instructional video), but, like I said, all you're really trying to do is twist the stitch. Hope that helps :)
Your Fan Lace Hat is beautiful! Just one question. When you say "knit 3 through back of loops," do you mean knit 3 "together" through back of loops or each of the 3 stitches separately through the back of the loops? Thank you so much. I really want to make this hat.
ReplyDeleteHello there! And nope, not k3 together, just knit three stitches individually through their back loops. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
DeleteThanks again!. I certainly did not expect such a quick reply, but I do appreciate it. Think I'll get the yarn to start the hat today. Hope you had great Thanksgiving.
DeleteYou're welcome! And happy knitting (and belated Thanksgiving)! :)
DeleteOh my! I have been trying to figure this out all weekend! Thanks! :)
DeleteGlad my old comments are still helping! And again, let me know if you have any other questions. :)
DeleteHello! I love this pattern, but I was hoping you might be able to help me scale it down to a smaller size? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteSure! :) What size are we talking about?
DeleteI was hoping to scale it down to maybe 70 or 80 stitches? But I wasn't sure what multiples the stitches are worked in. And thank you for replying so quickly
ReplyDeleteHello again! Just to be clear, you still want this to be an adult sized hat, right? Assuming that to be true, you need a yarn and needles that yield about 12 stitches per 4 inches (this will be a chunky yarn, likely on size 11 needles). Using a size 10 16" circular needle, then, cast on 60 stitches. Then follow the pattern exactly, switching to your size 11 needle right before your transition row. This row will take you to 72 stitches, which will work with the pattern as written. The only other difference is that you'll have 6 stitches at the end rather than 10. Of course, changing the yarn gauge will change the look of the hat as well - it is likely that the lace will be less well defined :)
ReplyDeleteOkay. Thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome! Just let me know if you have any more questions :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, I think your hat pattern is beautiful, but I do not have circular needles...is there a way I could do this on straight needles?
ReplyDeleteHello there!
DeleteYes, this pattern could be converted to be knit on straight needles. I have another pattern conversion in the queue ahead of this one, so give me a few days and I'll get it up!
Awesome, thanks!
DeleteWill it be posted separately? or on this page?
DeleteI'll post it as a reply to your comment. That way you can't miss it! :)
DeleteOh perfect! Thank you :)
DeleteHello again! I have worked up this pattern for you, but I should warn you of one thing; in order to maintain the decrease as-is, I had to put in some weird wrong-side decrease stitches. Namely, the ssp and the sssp. You will find a link to instructions for them below (when you reach them). If you'd rather not do them, you can replace them with a p2tog and p3tog, but of course that will change the finished look of the hat. Oh, and make sure you're knitting the right one - ssp does look an awful lot like sssp, after all! :)
DeleteAnyway, let me know if you have any questions! Good luck!
So let's do this thing! First of all, then, using your size 6 needle, cast on 102 stitches. And then we’ll move straight to the ribbing rows, like so:
Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * (p1, k1) twice, p1; rep from * until you’re one stitch before end of row; end p1
Ribbing Row 2: k1, * (k1, p1) twice, k1 *; end k1
Knit ribbing rows 1 – 2 three times and then knit row 1 once more. Then, switch to your size 8 needle and knit the following transition row:
Transition Row (right side): k1, * k1, p1, kfb, p1, k1 *; end k1 (122 stitches)
And now, it's time to move to our pattern, which is a slight variation on Fan Lace from page 216 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns and goes as follows:
Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl
Row 2: k1, * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1
Row 4: k1, * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1
Row 6: k1, * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1 *; end k1
Row 8: k1, * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, k1 *; end k1
Knit rows 1 - 8 three times (you could even knit one more repeat, if you desire an extra-slouchy hat and have enough yarn). And now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:
Decrease row 1 (wrong side): purl
Row 2: k1, * ssk, k3 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3 through back loops, k1, k3 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (112 stitches)
Row 3: purl
Row 4: k1, * ssk, k2 through back loops, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2 through back loops, k1, k2 through back loops, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (102 stitches)
Row 5: p1, * p3, sssp, p14 *; end p1 (92 stitches) (okay, I had to make up the sssp. It stands for “slip, slip, slip, purl” and should be performed the same as the “slip, slip, purl” except with one extra stitch. Here’s a link to the ssp, for instruction: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1141-slip-slip-purl-ssp)
Row 6: k1, * ssk, k1 through back loop, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1 through back loop, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (82 stitches)
Row 7: p1, * p1, sssp, p12 *; end p1 (72 stitches)
Row 8: k1, * ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, sl1-k2tog-psso *; end k1 (62 stitches)
Row 9: p1, * p1, p2tog, p7, ssp *; end p1 (52 stitches)
Row 10: k1, * ssk, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k2tog, k1 *; end k1 (42 stitches)
Row 11: p1, * p1, p2tog, p3, ssp *; end p1 (32 stitches)
Row 12: k1, * k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2 *; end k1 (22 stitches)
Row 13: p1, * p1, sssp *; end p1 * (12 stitches)
Clip tail, and transfer final 12 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold. Seam hat from the bottom edge. When you reach the top, thread seaming yarn through final 12 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.
yay! I hope this wasn't too much work! thank you :)
DeleteYou're welcome!
DeleteMade this hat for myself (that's rare, me knitting for myself!) and love this hat (and I don't wear hats!) A couple of tips that helped me keep from making mistakes - I put markers in at each of the 5 sections, that way I could quickly count to make sure I had the right number of stitches before moving on to the next section. I also chose to go for "extra slouchy" by adding one more repeat of 1-8 which was perfect for accommodating my abundant curls and not flattening them out. I used exactly one ball (literally, 5 inches ish left ~) of Red Heart Boutique Midnight "Nightfall" yarn. It's lovely. Thank you for sharing your patterns.
ReplyDeleteYay! I'm glad to hear that this hat turned out so well for you. :) It sounds like you're full of good lace-knitting tips. And finally: don't you love it when that happens with the yarn? I love feeling like I'm not wasting anything!!!!
DeleteWhat does kfb mean? I assume it's some sort of increase since it goes from100 to 120 stitches. I have never seen kfb.
ReplyDeleteHi Julia! It's knit front and back. You can find additional instruction here, if you need it :) : http://newstitchaday.com/knit-front-and-back-increase-kfb/
DeleteThanks,I realized what it was about five minutes after I posted the question. I'm looking forward to knitting this hat!
DeleteThat kind of stuff happens to me all the time! Let me know if you have any more questions.
DeleteHi, I am decreasing and noticed that you mention using dpns. I don't have any dpns and have not used them. Can I continue on the circular needles?
ReplyDeleteHello there!
DeleteUnfortunately, you will get to a point where you have too few stitches to knit comfortably on the 16" circular needle. You could always try the magic loop if you don't have dpns, though. There's an explanation of it here: http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2009/09/16/the-magical-magic-loop.aspx
You can also find lots of youtube videos if you simply look for "magic loop knitting." :)
I love this pattern! :) I'm on my third one. This was the very first hat I've ever made! :) I'm trying one of your other hat patterns now! :)
ReplyDeleteYay! I'm so glad to hear that this pattern has worked out well for you. :) And if you're ever knitting any of my stuff and have questions, please don't hesitate to ask!
DeleteOn the transition row that knitting into the front and back all the way around gives you more than 5 increases am I doing this wrong
ReplyDeleteHello there! You should start with 100 stitches and increase to 120 at the end of the transition row (adding 1 stitch every 5 stitches). Does that answer your question? :)
DeleteSorry my mistake I need to wake up I thought it was a 5 st increase I see now it's a 20 st increase
ReplyDeleteNo worries! I'm always happy to help. :)
DeleteThis hat looks lovely. Do you happen to know what the finished saze of the band is? I want to make one for my DD with a HUGE noggin.
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThis is one of my larger-banded women's hats (it could easily stretch to 24") so I think it would be very suitable. Just remember to go for that extra pattern repeat too! :)
Hi, I hope you'll somehow still get to see this. I'm a beginner so sorry if this sounds silly but when learning how to yo they always do a k1 straight after so when you say yo and then k1 does it mean to take the yarn over K1 + k1 or just yo k1 and move on. Or to put it another way does yo increase include a k1 already? Thanks a lot for sharing your creations, I hope to manage to do this beautiful pattern justice :-)
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteFirst off, don't worry, there are no silly questions. :) And a yo is just the action of putting your yarn over your needle to create a hole and an extra stitch above it - you probably practiced a k1 afterwards because you have to do SOMETHING next (you can also do a p1, but then the yo can be a bit trickier). Anyway, when I say yo, I just mean yo, and then you'll find the k1 written out as well. Hope that helps! :)
Thank you so much for such a quick reply and a perfect explanation!!! :-) All the best!
DeleteIs it possible to make this with two colors? Id like the lace inlay a separate color from the ribbing.
ReplyDeleteYes, if you want the ribbing a different color just knit the ribbing and the transition row as your first color, and then knit one extra row around. Then change to your second color and follow in pattern! :)
DeleteHi Gretchen!
ReplyDeleteI just stumbled across this pattern today, and I am SO going to give it a go! It's a lovely design, and the color is wonderful! What I really wanted to say was, I have NEVER seen anyone who actually monitors and responds to posts after a full THREE YEARS! Wow, Lady, you impress me!
Ha! Yes, I respond to everything (other than the occasional comment that gets lost in spam, and I always feel terrible about those when I find them again). I guess I should find something better to do, huh? ;) But since I won't, I will be around, so let me know if you have any questions!!!
DeleteJust found this pattern and would like to make for my passel of granddaughters for Christmas stocking stuffers.
ReplyDeleteI have convertible circular knitting needles with smallest cable at 8". Can I use that rather than dpn or do you think I should just do the magic loop? I have never had much luck with dpn's.
Thank you
Hi there! The trouble with using anything but the Magic Loop or dpns is that the top of the hat naturally gets smaller than 8" (at the last row it's probably only 1" in circumference). I did once watch someone finish a hat with a 16" circular needle, but by the end the stitches were all stretched out and it looked pretty strange! I think it's best to try the Magic Loop for a hat finish. :)
DeleteHi Gretchen!
ReplyDeleteI was wondering what size this hat is circumference-wise?
Hi there! The ribbing is a bit under 22" unstretched and the added stitches bring it to about 26"+ for the body. :)
DeleteThank you! If I wanted to make the circumference of the ribbing closer to 19”-20” how should I go about doing that with the same gauge?
DeleteHi again!
DeleteI designed this pattern so that the ribbing lines up with the main pattern, which is why I didn't offer sizes. I can't easily figure out how to adapt this particular facet of the pattern for a smaller ribbing, so unfortunately you will lose that design feature if you change it. That being said, you certain CAN change it - simply cast on 90 instead of 100, work in a k1, p1 ribbing, and then do the transition row as follows:
* k1, pfb, k1, p1, kfb, p1 *
Then you'll get up to 120 stitches for the body of the hat, the ribbing just won't line up quite as nicely. :)