 |
| American Beauty Hat |
It may be spring in most of the country, but in my neck of the woods, we're still in single-digits, driving down roads rutted with ice. Of course, I think that this three-color, slipped stitch hat will transition nicely to warmer temperatures as well, and hopefully now that I've made it for my husband, that's exactly what we'll get. Or at least his ears will stay warm...
Yarn: Schachenmayr smc Juvel (100% New Wool; 116 yards [106 meters]/50 grams); #575 Light Moss - one skein (color A), #2 Medium Grey Heather - one skein (color B), #500 Mottled Bark - one skein (color C)
 |
| I couldn't bring myself to do a boring back - hit me up if you want one, though, and I'll come up with something. |
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 4, one 16" circular needle in size 7
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches on size 6 needles
Using your size 4 circular needle and your color A yarn, cast on 116 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 1.5" in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, and then switch to your size 7 needle and knit one row. Next, we'll begin the pattern, which is American Beauty Tweed from page 39 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. So here goes!
Row 1: using color B, * slip 2 with yarn in back, k2; rep from *
Row 2: using color B, * slip 1 with yarn in front, slip 1 with yarn in back, k2 *
Row 3: using color C, * k2, slip 2 with yarn in back *
Row 4: using color C, * k2, slip 1 with yarn in front, slip 1 with yarn in back *
Rows 5 & 6: using color A, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 7 & 8: using color B, repeat rows 3 & 4
Rows 9 & 10: using color C, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 11 & 12: using color A, repeat rows 3 & 4
Knit rows 1 - 12 until your piece measures roughly 7", and you've just finished an even row of your pattern (if you'd like to be more picky than that on which colors you want lining up where, be my guest). Clip tails for colors B & C, since you're done with them. Then, knit two rows in color A before we begin our decreases. And once you're done with those, proceed as follows:
Decrease row 1: * k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8 *
Decrease row 2: * k7, k2tog, k9, ssk, k7 *
Decrease row 3: * k6, k2tog, k9, ssk, k6 *
Decrease row 4: * k5, k2tog, k9, ssk, k5 *
You'll probably want to switch to your dpns on this round or the next!
Decrease row 5: * k4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4 *
Decrease row 6: * k3, k2tog, k9, ssk, k3 *
Decrease row 7: * k2, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2 *
Decrease row 8: * k1, k2tog, k9, ssk, k1 *
Decrease row 9: * k2tog, k9, ssk *
Decrease row 10: * ssk, k7, k2tog *
Decrease row 11: * ssk, k5, k2tog *
Decrease row 12: * ssk, k3, k2tog *
Decrease row 13: * ssk, k1, k2tog *
Decrease row 14: * sl1-k2tog-psso *
Clip tail, and thread through final four stitches. Pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.
 |
| The pattern. |
Can this pattern be done on straight knitting needles? If so, could you please comment and give the pattern!! I would love to do this hat but ONLY KNOW how to do use straight needles!
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteI can certainly convert this pattern to straight needles, but I have one pattern conversion in line ahead of this one, so it will be a few days. :) Also, a commenter on another pattern shared some words of wisdom regarding learning on circular needles, which I've pasted below, just in case you want to give it a shot. :) So here's what Carol has to say:
"I am an advanced beginner knitter too, and I would strongly encourage you to be brave and take the plunge into knitting in the round! It's really easy once you get started, and will open up new worlds for you insofar as knitting hats, socks, etc. There is a book available in your local public library called "Circular Knitting Workshop: Essential Techniques for Knitting in the Round" that will get you off to an excellent start. Treat you to a few sets of circular and double-pointed needles, and off you go! You'll be amazed at the results. You can do this!"
To Seaside girl ... please, please, do learn how to knit on dpns or circulars! You'll be so proud of yourself and be able to knit lovely things. ;)
DeleteOkay, I finally got a chance to work this up. As always when I convert patterns, I haven’t knit this, so there may be some unforeseen error. Please let me know if anything looks awry!
DeleteUsing your size 4 needle and your color A yarn, cast on 118 stitches. Then we’ll move to the following ribbing rows:
Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * p1, k1; rep from *; end p1
Ribbing Row 2: k1, * p1, k1*; end k1
Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until your piece measures roughly 1.5” and you’ve just finished a right side row. Then, switch to your size 7 needle and purl one row across. Next, we'll begin the pattern, which is American Beauty Tweed from page 39 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. So here goes!
Row 1 (right side): using color B, k1, * slip 2 with yarn in back (wyib), k2 *; end k1
Row 2: using color B, p1, * slip 1 wyib, slip 1 wyif, p2 *; end p1
Row 3: using color C, k1, * k2, slip 2 wyib *; end k1
Row 4: using color C, p1, * p2, slip 1 wyib, slip 1 wyif *; end p1
Rows 5 & 6: using color A, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 7 & 8: using color B, repeat rows 3 & 4
Rows 9 & 10: using color C, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 11 & 12: using color A, repeat rows 3 & 4
Knit rows 1 - 12 until your piece measures roughly 7", and you've just finished an even row of your pattern (if you'd like to be more picky than that on which colors you want lining up where, be my guest). Clip tails for colors B & C, since you're done with them. Then, knit the following transition rows:
Transition Row 1: knit
Transition Row 2: purl
And once you're done with those, proceed as follows:
Decrease row 1 (right side): k1, * k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8 *; end k1 (110 stitches)
Decrease row 2: p1, * p7, ssp, p9, p2tog, p7 *; end p1 (102 stitches)
(the ssp is a slip slip purl. Instructions here: http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/content/article/92-how-to/1141-slip-slip-purl-ssp)
Decrease row 3: k1, * k6, k2tog, k9, ssk, k6 *; end k1 (94 stitches)
Decrease row 4: p1, * p5, ssp, p9, p2tog, p5 *; end p1 (86 stitches)
Decrease row 5: k1, * k4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4 *; end k1 (78 stitches)
Decrease row 6: p1, * p3, ssp, p9, p2tog, p3 *; end p1 (70 stitches)
Decrease row 7: k1, * k2, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2 *; end k1 (62 stitches)
Decrease row 8: p1, * p1, ssp, p9, p2tog, p1*; end p1 (54 stitches)
Decrease row 9: k1, * k2tog, k9, ssk *; end k1 (46 stitches)
Decrease row 10: p1, * p2tog, p7, ssp *; end k1 (38 stitches)
Decrease row 11: k1, * ssk, k5, k2tog *; end k1 (30 stitches)
Decrease row 12: p1, * p2tog, p3, ssp *; end p1 (22 stitches)
Decrease row 13: k1, * ssk, k1, k2tog *; end k1 (14 stitches)
Decrease row 14: p1, * p3tog *; end p1 (6 stitches)
Thread final 6 stitches to scrap of yarn for safekeeping. Seam hat from bottom. When you reach final 6 stitches, thread seaming thread through them and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.
Thank you, Gretchen, for another beautiful and unusual hat! You are one clever girl. ♥
ReplyDeleteThank you! This is one of my husband's favorites. :)
DeleteI can believe that! :)
ReplyDeleteIf you hate double-pointed needles, don't assume that you won't love circular ones. They come in various lengths and when the point comes that you would normally switch to dpn, you can pull out a loop of the plastic part to make the circle smaller. It's fiddly, but it works.
ReplyDeleteExcellent point! :)
DeleteGretchen, the decrease rows make no sense to me. When I finish row one, I have a few stitches left before my marker.
ReplyDeleteI know this is wrong. I have 116 stitches, and I *k8, k2t, K9, ssk, K8* around and it doesn;t come out even. help
Marie
Hi Marie!
DeleteAll I can think is that something must have gone wrong, since your * k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8 * should take 29 stitches, and 4 x 29 = 116. Since I can't see your knitting, of course it's hard for me to guess, but is it possible that you aren't counting both of the k8s? Or in other words, are you actually knitting * k8, k2tog, k9, ssk *? That's the only thing I can think of off the top of my head... :) Let me know if that's not it and I'll try again!
прелесть
ReplyDeleteпрелесть
ReplyDeleteThank you! :) My husband wears this one.
DeleteCan you make this a downloadable pdf? The directions are much more than difficult to follow on my phone. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteRight click on the screen and select print, if you have a printer.
DeleteThanks for the tip! :) And for the original poster - you can also use the PrintFriendly button at the bottom to format it as a PDF.
DeleteDumb question, but when you say row 1 in colour A, row 2 in colour B etc, do you just mean we should cut colour A and tie on colour B when we're done the row? I haven't really done multi-colour knitting before, so I wanted to double check I'm not missing a technique!
ReplyDeleteOh, and thanks for all your work on here - I've really enjoyed using your patterns, and I've been trying a lot of new things thanks to them!
DeleteHi Lauren!
DeleteThe beauty of slipped stitch patterns in the round is that you almost never HAVE to cut the tails for the colors you aren't using - you can simply carry them up the seam of the piece. Here's a tutorial that explains it: http://stephaniemasondesign.com/2013/03/20/knitting-tutorial-carry-yarn/. Anyway, let me know if you have any more questions! I'm always happy to help. :)
Thanks so much, that's a really useful tip!
DeleteGlad I could help! :)
DeleteI want to make this in worsted and a more plain top, would you be willing to tell me what changes need to be made in order to do that? It would be for adult women with normal size heads. Thank you so much and I love the pattern. God bless
ReplyDeleteYup, here are my suggestions - let me know if you have any questions! :)
DeleteNeedles: One 16" circular needle in size US 6, one 16" circular needle in size US 9
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles
Using your size 6 circular needle and your color A yarn, cast on 100 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit 1.5" in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, and then switch to your size 9 needle and knit one row. Next, we'll begin the pattern, as follows:
Row 1: using color B, * slip 2 with yarn in back, k2; rep from *
Row 2: using color B, * slip 1 with yarn in front, slip 1 with yarn in back, k2 *
Row 3: using color C, * k2, slip 2 with yarn in back *
Row 4: using color C, * k2, slip 1 with yarn in front, slip 1 with yarn in back *
Rows 5 & 6: using color A, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 7 & 8: using color B, repeat rows 3 & 4
Rows 9 & 10: using color C, repeat rows 1 & 2
Rows 11 & 12: using color A, repeat rows 3 & 4
Knit rows 1 - 12 until your piece measures roughly 7", and you've just finished an even row of your pattern (if you'd like to be more picky than that on which colors you want lining up where, be my guest). Clip tails for colors B & C, since you're done with them. Then, knit two rows in color A before we begin our decreases. And once you're done with those, proceed as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * k8, k2tog * (90 stitches)
Decrease Row 2: knit
Decrease Row 3: * k7, k2tog * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 4: knit
Decrease Row 5: * k6, k2tog * (70 stitches)
Decrease Row 6: * k5, k2tog * (60 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * k4, k2tog * (50 stitches)
Decrease Row 8: * k3, k2tog * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 9: * k2, k2tog * (30 stitches)
Decrease Row 10: * k1, k2tog * (20 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: * k2tog * (10 stitches)
Clip yarn tail, thread through final 10 stitches, and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends.