Black & White & Cabled-All-Over Cowl

Black & White & Cabled-All-Over Cowl

First, I apologize for the word play. It's genetic. And seems to get worse with age (sorry, mom, but it's true)... And second, let me introduce this cowl, which I think is one of my most versatile so far. After all, I knit it with a dk weight yarn, but on size 10 needles, to give it a little bit of extra loft. You could just as easily knit it with worsted, however, which would make it that much wider, or even a bulky yarn, if you wanted something super robust. Basically, you can play with this pattern as much as you want, and I think it will still be pretty. This design also changes widths, from a thicker band to be worn closer to the neck, to a thinner band that drapes further down. The sizes of both loops are adjustable, which adds yet another layer of versatility. And finally, the unique seaming method of this cowl means that you won't have any twisted loops to deal with!

Yarn: Rozetti Polaris (65% Dralon, 31% Wool, 4% Ripped Off By Tag Removal; 191 yards [175 meters]/50 grams); #92002 Zenith – two skeins

The first, wider, pattern.
Yes, those are eyelets in the middle of
those cables.

Needles: Straight needles in size 10, cable needle (cn)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 21 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size 6 needles

We're going to begin this piece with the wider band, which, as you'll see, whittles down when you're about two feet in. To begin with, however, cast on 54 stitches, and then knit three set-up rows, which go as follows:

Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): * p4, k4, p4, k2; rep from *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Set-up Row 2: * k4, p4, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 from last repeat

And now that that's done, let's pick up a little notation to complete the pattern:

c2f (cable two front): slip next two knit stitches to cable needle and hold in front. Knit two, and then knit four from cable needle

c4f (cable four front): slip next four knit stitches to cable needle and hold in front. Knit four, and then knit four from cable needle

pcb (purl cross back): slip next two purl stitches to cable needle and hold in back. Knit four, and then purl two from cable needle

pcf (purl cross front): slip next four knit stitches to cable needle and hold in front. Purl two, and then knit four from cable needle

So let's get started!

Row 1: * pcf, pcb, p2, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 2: * p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k4, p8, k4 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 3: * p2, c4f, p4, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 4: * p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k4, p8, k4 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 5: * pcb, pcf, p2, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 6: * p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 7: * k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 8: * p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 9: * k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2, pcf, pcb, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 10: * k2, p8, k4, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 11: * k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p4, c4f, p4 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 12: same as row 10

Row 13: * k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2, pcb, pcf, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat

Row 14: * p4, k4, p4, k2, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat

Row 15: same as row 8 (* k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2 *, omitting final p2 in last repeat)

Row 16: same as row 9 (* p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2 *, omitting final k2 in last repeat)

Continue knitting these sixteen rows until piece measures roughly 24" - 25" (or you've gotten as far as you want to with your wider loop) and you've just knit row 14 of your pattern. Next, we're going to decrease into the thinner part of the piece, starting like so:

Thinner pattern. Still cabled, but with no eyelets.

Decrease Row 1: (ssk) twice, (p2tog) twice, (k2tog) twice, p2tog, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2tog, (ssk) twice, (p2tog) twice, (k2tog) twice

Row 2: p2, k2, p2, k1, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k1, p2, k2, p2

Row 3: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2, pcf, pcb, p1, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1

Row 4: p4, k3, p8, k4, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k1, p4

Row 5: c2f, p1, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, p2, c4f, p3, c2f

Row 6: same as decrease row 4

Row 7: k4, p1, k4, p2tog, (yo) twice, p2tog, k4, (p2tog) twice, k8, p2tog, p1, k4

Row 8: p4, k2, p8, k2, p4, k1, (k1, p1) into double yo of previous row, k1, p4, k1, p4

Row 9: k4, p1, pcf, pcb, p2tog, k8, p2, k4

Row 10: p4, k2, p8, k3, p8, k3, p4

Row 11: c2f, p2tog, p1, c4f, p2tog, p1, k8, p2, c2f

Row 12: p4, k2, p8, k2, p8, k2, p4

Once you've knit these twelve rows, the decreases are done. Which means it's time to move on to the next part of the pattern. So let's keep going!

Thin Rows 1, 3, 7, & 9: k4, p2, k8, p2, k8, p2, k4

Row 2 and all even rows: p4, k2, p8, k2, p8, k2, p4

Row 5: c2f, p2, k8, p2, c4f, p2, c2f

Row 11: c2f, p2, c4f, p2, k8, p2, c2f

Continue knitting rows 1 - 12 until piece measures roughly 55" (or you're about 6" from where you want to end it). It doesn't matter what row you're on, although I've just completed a wrong-side row, if that counts for anything. Knit in pattern across first 15 stitches, and then slip the second 15 stitches to a stitch holder for safekeeping. Now, knit 6 more inches in pattern, using just the first 15 stitches. Bind off loosely, and pick up the second fifteen stitches and do the same. At this point, you should have added 6 inches to your pattern, except in two strips instead of one. And now all we have to do is seam the beast such that there's no twisted loop. So here's how it goes:

First, lay cowl out, right side down. Fold over cast-on edge.

Second, fold the remainder of the cowl over the rest of the piece. As you'll notice, I've lined it up so that the decreases line up with the cast-on edge.

Third, wrap tail of cowl around again.

Finally, fold the tail of the cowl over such that your two thin strips line up with the outer edges of the cast-on edge. Based on the way you've folded the piece, the thinner part of the cowl should pass through the hole created by the split. Seam piece together, lining up outside edges. Tuck in ends. And then wear it somewhere, as it should be cozy!!!