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| Rib & Cable Hat |
The name isn't flashy but the hat looks pretty darn good anyway; pairing cables which jump ribs and, well, ribbing, this thing squeezes up tight until you're ready to stick it on your head. Yeah, I have no idea what I'm talking about. So let's just make a hat already!
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| The finishing! |
Yarn: Berroco Vintage Chunky (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #6176 Pumpkin – one skein
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 10, and a cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle for cabling
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 14 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
Cast on 80 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Now we're going to work a ribbing row, which looks like so:
Ribbing row: * p1, k2, p1, (k1, p2, k1, p1) twice, k2; rep from *
Repeat ribbing row 6 times, and then we'll move on to the main pattern. But first, the notation:
front cross (fc): slip two stitches to cn and hold in front. Knit two stitches, then knit two from cn.
back cross (bc): slip two stitches to cn and hold in back. Knit two stitches, then knit two from cn.
And now for the pattern. Please note that Raveler sandeleh has been kind enough to work up a chart for this hat (using this handy online chart generator), which you can find below the written directions (and which you can use in place of the written directions, if desired). Thanks sandeleh!
Rows 1 & 2: * p1, k2, p1, (k4, p1) twice, k2 *
Row 3: * p1, k2, p1, fc, p1, bc, p1, k2 *
Row 4: * p1, k2, p1, (k4, p1) twice, k2 *
Rows 5 - 12: repeats rows 1 - 4 twice more
Rows 13 & 14: * p1, k4, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k4 *
Row 15: * p1, bc, p1, (k2, p1) twice, fc *
Row 16: * p1, k4, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k4 *
Rows 17 - 24: repeat rows 13 - 16 twice more
Knit rows 1 - 24 once, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * p1, k2tog, p1, (k4, p1) twice, ssk *
Row 2: * p3, (k4, p1) twice, p1 *
Row 3: * p1, p2tog, fc, p1, bc, p2tog *
And you're going to want to switch to your dpns now, if you haven't already.
Row 4: * p2, k4, p1, k4, p1 * except for the last repeat, where you'll slip the final purl stitch to the next dpn (making it, in effect, the first stitch of the next row)
Row 5: * p3tog, k4, p1, k4 *
Row 6: slip first two stitches to last dpn. Then, * k3, p1, k3, sl-k2tog-psso *
Row 7: * k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2 *
Row 8: * k2tog, p1, ssk, k1 *
Row 9: slip first stitch to last dpn. Then, * p1, sl-k2tog-psso *
Clip tail, thread through remaining 10 stitches, weave to inside of hat, and knot. Tuck in ends.
Cast on 80 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Now we're going to work a ribbing row, which looks like so:
Ribbing row: * p1, k2, p1, (k1, p2, k1, p1) twice, k2; rep from *
Repeat ribbing row 6 times, and then we'll move on to the main pattern. But first, the notation:
front cross (fc): slip two stitches to cn and hold in front. Knit two stitches, then knit two from cn.
back cross (bc): slip two stitches to cn and hold in back. Knit two stitches, then knit two from cn.
And now for the pattern. Please note that Raveler sandeleh has been kind enough to work up a chart for this hat (using this handy online chart generator), which you can find below the written directions (and which you can use in place of the written directions, if desired). Thanks sandeleh!
Rows 1 & 2: * p1, k2, p1, (k4, p1) twice, k2 *
Row 3: * p1, k2, p1, fc, p1, bc, p1, k2 *
Row 4: * p1, k2, p1, (k4, p1) twice, k2 *
Rows 5 - 12: repeats rows 1 - 4 twice more
Rows 13 & 14: * p1, k4, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k4 *
Row 15: * p1, bc, p1, (k2, p1) twice, fc *
Row 16: * p1, k4, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k4 *
Rows 17 - 24: repeat rows 13 - 16 twice more
Knit rows 1 - 24 once, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:
Decrease Row 1: * p1, k2tog, p1, (k4, p1) twice, ssk *
Row 2: * p3, (k4, p1) twice, p1 *
Row 3: * p1, p2tog, fc, p1, bc, p2tog *
And you're going to want to switch to your dpns now, if you haven't already.
Row 4: * p2, k4, p1, k4, p1 * except for the last repeat, where you'll slip the final purl stitch to the next dpn (making it, in effect, the first stitch of the next row)
Row 5: * p3tog, k4, p1, k4 *
Row 6: slip first two stitches to last dpn. Then, * k3, p1, k3, sl-k2tog-psso *
Row 7: * k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2 *
Row 8: * k2tog, p1, ssk, k1 *
Row 9: slip first stitch to last dpn. Then, * p1, sl-k2tog-psso *
Clip tail, thread through remaining 10 stitches, weave to inside of hat, and knot. Tuck in ends.
I really like this hat as well as the next one.
ReplyDeleteI thought this one turned out really nicely!
DeleteI'm stuck at decrease row 6. Slip first 2 stitches, then start repeat? Are these 2 stitches worked at all?
ReplyDeleteHello there!
DeleteBy slipping those first two stitches, you're essentially just making them the last two stitches in the round (so you'll work them in the final sl1-k2tog-psso). Let me know if you have any other questions!
Please help- I'm still just learning. I'm confused by row 33/row 5 of the decrease. If you have slipped the final purl from row 32/row 4 of the decrease, won't you have 13 stitches on your next dpn to work on? Row 32/row 4 of the decrease only accounts for 12 stitches. Thank you for any help you can give.
ReplyDeleteHi there! Yes, you will have more stitches on your first dpn, but you will still have the same number of stitches total, so the decrease will still work out (although you'll probably have to rearrange where some of your stitches lie on your dpns to get all your p3togs done). Does that make sense? :)
DeleteHi Gretchen how many stitches would I need for adult large size.
DeleteHi there!
DeleteI wrote this pattern in one size because the pattern repeat is too long to size differently - you can always try gauging up a needle size if you want it bigger, or using slightly thicker yarn though! :)
Please can you share this pattern using straight needles.
ReplyDeleteHi! Unfortunately it simply isn't possible to complete the decrease as written working flat. If you'd like to get started and then make up your own finish, I've translated it through row 5 of the decrease below. Then you're on your own!
DeleteCast on 82 stitches. Now we’re going to work a ribbing, as follows:
Ribbing Row 1 (right side): k1, * p1, k2, p1, (k1, p2, k1, p1) twice, k2; rep from *, end k1
Ribbing Row 2: p1, * p2, (k1, p1, k2, p1) twice, k1, p2, k1; rep from *, end p1
Repeat ribbing rows 3 times in total, and then we'll move on to the main pattern.
Row 1 (right side): k1, * p1, k2, p1, (k4, p1) twice, k2; rep from *, end k1
Row 2: p1, * p2, (k1, p4) twice, k1, p2, k1; rep from *, end p1
Row 3: k1, * p1, k2, p1, fc, p1, bc, p1, k2; rep from *, end k1
Row 4: p1, * p2, (k1, p4) twice, k1, p2, k1; rep from *, end p1
Rows 5 - 12: repeats rows 1 - 4 twice more
Row 13: k1, * p1, k4, p1, (k2, p1) twice, k4; rep from *, end k1
Row 14: p1, * p4, (k1, p2) twice, k1, p4, k1; rep from*, end p1
Row 15: k1, * p1, bc, p1, (k2, p1) twice, fc; rep from *, end k1
Row 16: p1, * p4, (k1, p2) twice, k1, p4, k1; rep from*, end p1
Rows 17 - 24: repeat rows 13 - 16 twice more
Knit rows 1 - 24 once, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now it's time to begin the decreases, which go as follows:
Decrease Row 1 (right side): k1, * p1, k2tog, p1, (k4, p1) twice, ssk; rep from *, end k1
Row 2: p1, * k1, (k1, p4) twice, k3; rep from *, end p1
Row 3: k1, * p1, p2tog, fc, p1, bc, p2tog; rep from *, end k1
Row 4: p1, * k1, p4, k1, p4, k2; rep from *, end p1
Row 5: * p3tog, k4, p1, k4; rep from *, end k2