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| Blister Stitch Hat |
I know, I know, it's high damn time that I made a multi-color piece. And here's what I came up with: a slightly goofy, slouchy, pom-pom bedecked ski bunny hat with all kinds of fun details: a cabled band! wee bubbles! Easter colors! etc. So let's get to it.
Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #910A Winter White - one skein (main color), #1973 Seafoam Heather - just a bit (accent color 1), #834 Strawberry Pink - just a bit (accent color 2), #1942 Mint - just a bit (accent color 3), and #820 Lemon - just a bit (accent color 4)
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| Dude! Let's view it from the back. |
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 6, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 6
Notions: Tapestry needle, cable needle (cn) or double-pointed needle (dpn) for cabling, 3 stitch markers or yarn scraps, 3 1/2" or 5/8" buttons, and a needle and thread with which to attach them
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches
Okie-doke, so this hat is a two-parter, and we're going to begin with the band, which is knit back and forth. Of course, I'm still using my circular needles, but that's a matter of personal preference.
ANYWAY, to knit the band you'll start by casting on 18 stitches with your main-color yarn. Also, we'll be knitting a very tiny variation on the loose five-rib braid from page 169 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. So we'll start with some notation, move on to a couple of set-up rows that include buttonholes, and then we'll get down to business.
Front Cross (FC): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then slip the purl stitch from cn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn
Back Cross (BC): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, then slip the purl stitch from cn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn
Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): p1, k1, (p2, k1) 4 times, p2, k1, p1
Set-up Row 2: k1, p1, (k2, p1) 4 times, k2, p1, k1
Buttonhole Row (aka Set-up Row 4): k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k1
And now that we're all ready to go, let's continue on to the main pattern, which goes as follows:
Row 1 and all other odd (wrong-side) rows: p1, k1, (p2, k1) 4 times, p2, k1, p1
Row 2: k1, p1, (k2, p1) 4 times, k2, p1, k1
Row 4: k1, p1, k2, (p1, FC) twice, p1, k1
Row 6: same as Row 2
Row 8: k1, p1, (BC, p1) twice, k2, p1, k1
Knit in pattern until piece measures about 23 inches (it doesn't really matter where you leave off, but stopping right after a cable row probably isn't your best choice). Bind off loosely. Position the 3 buttons 1/4 - 1/2 an inch from bound-off edge and in line with buttonholes, and then stitch them to piece. Fasten buttons. Decide which side of band you'd like to be "up" (so the side you'll be picking up stitches along for the rest of the hat) and use yarn tail or fresh scrap of yarn to stitch band together along top edge. Knot and tuck in end. If you never anticipate opening these buttons ever again, you may choose to do the same thing along bottom edge of band, to hold the pieces together more securely.
Now, beginning in line with the center of your buttons and still with your main-color yarn, pick up 112 stitches along the top of your band, placing one marker after you've picked up 4 stitches, and another when you're 5 stitches from the end (so there should be 103 stitches between these two markers, and about 5 stitches per inch). Place the final marker when you've completed all 112 stitches (so at the end of the row), and then knit one row around. Now it's time to begin our next pattern, which is a variation of Four-Color Blister Stitch from page 169 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns.
Rows 1 - 4: using your first accent color, knit
Row 5: using your main color, knit to first marker, slip marker, and then k3. Next, * drop next stitch off of needle and unravel four rows down, until you've exposed the main color stitch below. Without picking stitch up on left-hand needle, insert right-hand needle through the front of stitch and straight through, behind the four unraveled rows above. Knit stitch, catching the loose strands in stitch; k3; rep from * until you reach second marker, slip marker, and knit to end of row
Row 6: using main color, knit
Rows 7 - 10: using your second accent color, knit
Row 11: using your main color, knit to first marker, slip marker, and then k1. Next, rep from * of Row 5, ending last repeat k1 instead of k3, and knitting the stitches between your second marker and your end-of-row marker, as you did before.
Row 12: using main color, knit
Rows 13 - 16: using your third accent color, knit
Rows 17 & 18: using main color, repeat rows 5 & 6
Rows 19 - 22: using your fourth accent color, knit
Rows 23: using main color, repeat row 11
After completing rows 1 - 23, you can remove your two additional stitch markers, and knit in your main color until piece measures roughly 6.5". And now it's time to begin the decreases!
Row 1: * k2tog, k24, ssk *
Row 2: knit
Row 3: * k2tog, k22, ssk *
Row 4: knit
Row 5: * k2tog, k20, ssk *
Row 6: * k2tog, k18, ssk *
You may want to switch to your dpns right about now...
Row 7: * k2tog, k16, ssk *
Row 8: * k2tog, k14, ssk *
Row 9: * k2tog, k12, ssk *
Row 10: * k2tog, k10, ssk *
Row 11: * k2tog, k8, ssk *
Row 12: * k2tog, k6, ssk *
Row 13: * k2tog, k4, ssk *
Row 14: * k2tog, k2, ssk *
Row 15: * k2tog, ssk *
Clip tail; thread through remaining 8 stitches and pull tight. Bring to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends. Finally, make a pom-pom in whichever color(s) suits your fancy (my favorite instructions at the link), and attach securely to hat. Tuck in any ends you may have forgotten about the last time you tucked in ends.
I have a collection of your hat patterns but this is the cutiest by far and it is the next on my needles to work a stash of hats for kiddos in need in my hometown. Thank you for shareing.
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you like it! This one is definitely my taste, as well :)
DeleteI love this pattern, but although I have been knitting for years, I am not sure what ssk means. Please advise. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThe ssk is a left-leaning decrease (ssk stands for slip, slip, knit). You can find a more detailed explanation for this and any other term I use on my Glossary page, here: http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/p/glossary-of-knitting-terms.html (well, occasionally I miss something, but just let me know if I do!). Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Love this pattern. but is it for children?
ReplyDeleteNope, it's for adults! :)
Deletebut.....you can shorten the band and pick up stitches for an even 5 st pattern amount around, can't you? for children?
ReplyDeleteYes, totally - all you need to do in order to (basically) match the decrease is have a multiple of 4 stitches, and then have a multiple of 4 stitches plus 3 between your stitch markers for the pattern (since it breaks in the back you have some flexibility with how many stitches you have outside of the blister stitch pattern). Anyway, if I'm not making any sense here just let me know what gauge your yarn is and what age child you're knitting for and I can help you with some modifications. :)
Deletesorry, its 3 sts for bubble and one for dropping making it 4 st pattern. Re figuring your decrease
ReplyDeleteYes, exactly - it's a four stitch pattern that needs 3 pesky extra stitches to make it work out. :)
DeleteI love this pattern. Would make a lovely mother/daughter combo.
ReplyDeleteMy granddaughter is 3 years old and I like using a med. wgt worsted and 6 or 7 needle.
It sounds like your gauge should match the original, then. :) You can find the pattern below - I've had to post it in two comments because it's too big for one.
DeleteNeedles: One 16" circular needle in size 6, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 6
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches.
To knit the band you'll start by casting on 18 stitches with your main-color yarn. Here’s your notation:
Front Cross (FC): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then slip the purl stitch from cn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn
Back Cross (BC): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, then slip the purl stitch from cn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn
And now, work as follows:
Set-up Rows 1 & 3 (wrong side): p1, k1, (p2, k1) 4 times, p2, k1, p1
Set-up Row 2: k1, p1, (k2, p1) 4 times, k2, p1, k1
Buttonhole Row (aka Set-up Row 4): k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k1
Knit set-up rows 1 - 4, and then move on the main pattern, which goes as follows:
Row 1 and all other odd (wrong-side) rows: p1, k1, (p2, k1) 4 times, p2, k1, p1
Row 2: k1, p1, (k2, p1) 4 times, k2, p1, k1
Row 4: k1, p1, k2, (p1, FC) twice, p1, k1
Row 6: same as Row 2
Row 8: k1, p1, (BC, p1) twice, k2, p1, k1
Knit in pattern until piece measures about 20 inches (it doesn't really matter where you leave off, but stopping right after a cable row probably isn't your best choice). Bind off loosely. Position the 3 buttons 1/4 - 1/2 an inch from bound-off edge and in line with buttonholes, and then stitch them to piece. Fasten buttons. Decide which side of band you'd like to be "up" (so the side you'll be picking up stitches along for the rest of the hat) and use yarn tail or fresh scrap of yarn to stitch band together along top edge. Knot and tuck in end. If you never anticipate opening these buttons ever again, you may choose to do the same thing along bottom edge of band, to hold the pieces together more securely.
Now, beginning in line with the center of your buttons and still with your main-color yarn, pick up 96 stitches along the top of your band, placing one marker after you've picked up 2 stitches, and another when you're 3 stitches from the end (so there should be 91 stitches between these two markers, and about 5 stitches per inch). Place the final marker when you've completed all 96 stitches (so at the end of the row), and then knit one row around. Now it's time to begin our next pattern, as follows:
Rows 1 - 4: using your first accent color, knit
DeleteRow 5: using your main color, knit to first marker, slip marker, and then k3. Next, * drop next stitch off of needle and unravel four rows down, until you've exposed the main color stitch below. Without picking stitch up on left-hand needle, insert right-hand needle through the front of stitch and straight through, behind the four unraveled rows above. Knit stitch, catching the loose strands in stitch; k3; rep from * until you reach second marker, slip marker, and knit to end of row
Row 6: using main color, knit
Rows 7 - 10: using your second accent color, knit
Row 11: using your main color, knit to first marker, slip marker, and then k1. Next, rep from * of Row 5, ending last repeat k1 instead of k3, and knitting the stitches between your second marker and your end-of-row marker, as you did before.
Row 12: using main color, knit
Rows 13 - 16: using your third accent color, knit
Rows 17 & 18: using main color, repeat rows 5 & 6
Rows 19 - 22: using your fourth accent color, knit
Rows 23: using main color, repeat row 11
After completing rows 1 - 23, you can remove your two additional stitch markers, and knit in your main color until piece measures roughly 5.5". And now it's time to begin the decreases!
Row 1: * k2tog, k20, ssk *
Row 2: * k2tog, k18, ssk *
You may want to switch to your dpns right about now...
Row 3: * k2tog, k16, ssk *
Row 4: * k2tog, k14, ssk *
Row 5: * k2tog, k12, ssk *
Row 6: * k2tog, k10, ssk *
Row 7: * k2tog, k8, ssk *
Row 8: * k2tog, k6, ssk *
Row 9: * k2tog, k4, ssk *
Row 10: * k2tog, k2, ssk *
Row 11: * k2tog, ssk *
Clip tail; thread through remaining 8 stitches and pull tight. Bring to inside of hat and knot. Tuck in ends. Finally, make a pom-pom in whichever color(s) suits your fancy, and attach securely to hat. Tuck in any ends.