Handkerchief Cowl

Handkerchief Cowl

Okay, let's be real here.  For some ridiculous reason, I only bought one skein of this yarn, and I bought it on vacation, so I couldn't exactly pop to the store for another.  And that has seriously limited the yarn's utility, although a combination of my small neck and industriousness (I totally had to cut off the cast-on tail and use it to cast off; that's how low on yarn I was) has produced a decent result.  That being said, let's take a moment to talk about sizing!

As mentioned, I have a small neck.  I also have a healthy stash of scraps, so finding something else to make the I-cord to finish this beast was easy (I used the leftovers from the Arrowhead Lace Cowl).  However, I strongly, STRONGLY suggest having two skeins of yarn on hand to work this piece (or at least 100 yards), especially if your neck is any bigger than mine (12" around, by my husband's measure).  Furthermore, I suggest working the lace portion of this pattern to your neck's circumference, if not larger, for fit and comfort (the overall circumference of the piece is slightly larger, based on the positioning of the eyelets for the I-cord lacing, but not much).  Then you might even have enough yarn to work a matching I-cord!

Yarn: Cascade Luna (100% Peruvian Cotton; 82 yards [75 meters]/50 grams); #727 Coral - 1 - 2 skeins (2 highly recommended), plus some stash scrap yarn in a complimentary color, should you decide to knit the I-cord from a different material

A close-up of the closure

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7, one cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle (dpn) for cabling, one set of dpns in size 7 for working the I-cord

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Let's get this party started!  First, cast on 12 stitches.  Now, we're immediately going to begin working a double cable (from page 243 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns), which goes as follows:

Rows 1, 3, 5, & 7 (wrong side): k2, p8, k2

Row 2: p2, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn, slip next 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn, p2

Rows 4, 6, & 8: p2, k8, p2

Spiral Column Cuff

Spiral Column Cuff.  And the door.

Okay, so my yarn stash is dwindling and I'm trying to come up with stuff I can make from the scrapple of things I've already made.  Or in other words: enter the Spiral Column Cuff, which I made with the leftovers from the Madeira Mesh Cowl.  Yay, it's a twofer!

Yarn: Berroco Linsey (64% Cotton, 36% Linen; 114 yards [105 meters]/50 grams); #6556 Shell - less than 1 skein 

Horribly offended by the lace-in-the-front proposition?
Guess what?!?!  You can also put it in the back!!!

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 6, two double-pointed needles (dpns) also in size 6 (for the i-cord, of course!)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 21 stitches = 4 inches

Using your straight needles, cast on 32 stitches.  We're going to work a few eyelets for the lacing, so let's get started!

Set-up Row 1 (right side): p1, * k6, p2; rep from *; end p1 instead of p2

Set-up Row 2: k1, * p6, k2 *; end k1 instead of k2

Set-up Row 3: p1, * k1, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k1, p2 *; end p1 instead of p2

Arrowhead Lace Cowl

Arrowhead Lace Cowl

The idea for this cowl has been brewing for some time now, and I finally got a yarn that seemed perfect for it (also, the fact that it's basically a worsted-weight cotton makes it knit up quickly, and have a nice, cozy weight).  Basically, it's buttoned in the back, with a ribbed section to go around the neck, and then it explodes into a wide lace bit for the front.  And it's really fun to knit, if I do say so myself.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Sweet Caroline (100% Cotton; 76 yards [69 meters]/50 grams); #4021 White/Yellow - two skeins

Needles: One set of straight needles in size 7

Notions: Tapestry needle, 3 1/2" or 7/16" inch buttons, plus needle and thread if your yarn won't fit through the button holes

The pattern, yo.

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!  Cast on 21 stitches, and work the first couple of rows to include buttonholes as follows:

Row 1 (right side): * k1, p1; repeat from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Row 3 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) x 3, p1, yo, ssk, k1

Continue to work fabric in a k1, p1 ribbing until piece measures about 4 inches in length, and you're just about to begin a right-side row.  Now it's time to work some short rows for shaping.

Dimpled Eyelet Hat

Dimpled Eyelet Hat

Okay, so here's the deal.  I made the Dimpled Eyelet Cowl and really liked the tiny section of the pattern that wasn't fully eyeleted (which came as a result of the circular knitting and such).  I've also had this sock yarn kicking around my stash for years now, and this seemed like a perfect opportunity to use it.  Of course, as soon as I started making it, my four-year-old claimed it as his, which is why he insisted on being in many of the photos.  Even better, due to his enormous head and the hat's natural slouchiness, it fits everyone from a four-year-old to an adult!

Yarn: ShibuiKnits Sock (100% Superwash Merino; 191 yards [175 meters]/50 grams); #51305 Zinnea - one skein, but I got WICKED close to the end on this one, so you will probably want slightly more yarn, or two skeins just in case


Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 3, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 3

A close-up of the pattern

Notions: one stitch marker or scrap of yarn, tapestry needle

Gauge: 28 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 160 stitches, place marker, and join in round.  Next, knit one inch in the following ribbing pattern:

Ribbing pattern: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from *

And now it's time to switch to the main pattern, which goes as follows:

Row 1: * k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk *

Row 2: knit all stitches except double yo's, where you will p1 in first yo, and k1 in back loop of second yo

Rows 3 & 4: knit