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| Italian Wheat Hat |
Um, so it's a hat? Yes, definitely a hat. I got the idea for this after knitting the Wheat Ear Cuff, since I thought the cabling could be retooled into a cool hat. And that's pretty much all I've got for this one...
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Quatro (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #5019 Green Tea - I used what was left after I made the Zig Zag Legwarmers, which was almost exactly 3/4 of a skein
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one 16" circular needle in size 10, one set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 10, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn
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| The finishing. |
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches on size 8 needles
Cast on 108 stitches, place marker, and join in round. Knit one inch in a k1, p1 ribbing. Now it's time to switch to your size 10 circular needle, and your main pattern, which is a mash-up of Italian Chain Ribbing (from page 47 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns) and the Wheat Ear Cable (from page 244 of the same). You'll need the following notation to get 'er done:
fc (front cross): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 3, knit 3 from cn
fc-2: slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; knit 2, knit 2 from cn
fc-1: slip 1 stitch to cn and hold in front; knit 1, knit 1 from cn
bc (back cross): slip 3 stitches to cn and hold in back; knit 3, knit 3 from cn
bc-2: slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in back; knit 2, knit 2 from cn
So let's go!
Row 1: * p1, k16, p1; rep from *
Row 2: * p1, k6, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k6, p1 *
Row 3: * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, bc, p1 *
Row 4: * p1, k6, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k6, p1 *
Knit rows 1 - 4 until piece measures about 6" in length and you have just completed row 1 of the pattern. Now it's time to begin the decrease!
Row 1: * p1, k6, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k6, p2, ssk, k2, (k2tog) twice, (yo) twice, (ssk) twice, k2, k2tog, p1 *
Row 2: * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc-2, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, bc-2, p1 *
Row 3: * p1, k6, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k6, p2, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, p1 *
And here's where I switched to my dpns...
Row 4: * p1, k16, p2, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p1 *
Row 5: * p1, k6, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k6, p2, k8, p1 *
Row 6: * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc-2, bc-2, p1 *
Row 7: * p1, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, p2, ssk, k4, k2tog, p1 *
Row 8: * p1, k12, p2, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1 *
Row 9: * p1, k4, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k4, p2, ssk, k2tog, p1 *
Row 10: * p1, bc-2, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc-2, p2, fc-1, p1 *
Row 11: * p1, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, p2, k2tog, p1 *
Row 12: * p1, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p1, p3tog *
Row 13: * p1, bc-2, fc-2, p2tog *
Row 14: * p1, k2tog, ssk, k2tog, ssk, p1 *
Row 15: * p1, ssk, k2tog, p1 *
Cut yarn and thread through final twelve stitches. Pull tight, knot, and pull to interior of hat. Tuck in ends, since you're done.
Do you have to switch to double pointed needles or could you stick with the circular? I'm lacking in the needles or the knowledge for the double pointed, but it looks like it could be continued on the circular.... Thoughts?
ReplyDeleteThanks for your question! Basically, you will get to a point where you have too few stitches to work on your 16" needle comfortably. I know some people use two circular needles instead of a set of dpns, though, so you try that if you prefer. Here's a link to a tutorial I found about it online: http://knitting.about.com/od/knittingskills/ss/round_twocircs.htm
DeleteHope that helps!!!
HI!
ReplyDeleteShould I have extra stitches after row two? I have 112.
Hi Ellen! You should have the same number of stitches after row two - there are two decreases (the k2tog and the ssk) and two increases (the double yo). My guess is that you missed a couple of the decreases. You should have 7 stitches between the purls and yo's - you should be able to figure out where you went wrong by counting. Please let me know if you have any other questions! And happy knitting!!!
DeleteThanks so much! I love your patterns and can't wait to try another after this!!
DeleteI'm glad to hear it! I hope the rest of this hat goes without a hitch! :)
DeleteBELLISSIMO BRAVA!
ReplyDeleteGlad you like it :)
DeleteI'm going to try this lovely hat. Thank you
ReplyDeleteYou are very welcome :)
DeleteSuch a pretty hat. I would also like to make a matching scarf. It looks like the pattern is a repeat of 18 sts (108 divided by 18 = 6 repeats for the hat) So, could I cast on 54 sts and do 3 repeats for a scarf, plus adding extra sts for the edge? I'm not good at making up my own patterns, but it seems to me this should work.
ReplyDeleteHello there!
DeleteYes, you've got it right - it is an 18 stitch repeat, which includes a purled stitch at each edge that you could easily turn into a garter stitch instead (you could also cast on 2 extra stitches and do each edge as 2 garter stitches). Long story short, you could definitely cast on 54 or 56 stitches (or 36 or 38, if that works better with your gauge). Just don't forget to convert the pattern for back-and-forth knitting instead of circular! And if you need any help with that, just let me know. :)
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI am the editor-in-chief of a new digital iPad and Kindle-based magazine for knitters. We are currently looking for knitters to feature their projects, tips and techniques and new fun, interesting patterns. If you have a project you would like to submit along with one high-quality photo, please get in touch with us. Byline given for submissions.
Cheers,
Jason
Thanks for the heads-up! :)
DeleteThank you for sharing all of your beautiful patterns! You are so talented! I too find circular needles a challenge. I hope it gets easier. Just made the head band for my granddaughters and they are very happy with the pattern and look so pretty on them!
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you enjoy my patterns! :) And I hope circular knitting gets easier for you too, because it saves you so much seaming (and I don't like to seam!). Anyway, glad the headbands turned out well. Let me know if you ever have any questions! :)
DeleteSo very pretty and nicely instructed. Thank you for sharing your skill 😊
ReplyDeleteThank you! I'm glad to hear you're having a good time with this pattern. :) And I'm glad that there are people out there who appreciate my website as well!!!
DeleteDoes it takes 20 stitches to complete 1 pattern for row 2, before it repeats? If it does, what do I do with the extra 8 stitches at the end?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteNope, row 2 takes 18 stitches, since the ssk, k2tog, and double yo taken together are just 4 stitches. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
I just found what ssk means, in your Glossary. So thanks for that.
ReplyDeleteJenny
Hi Jenny!
DeleteLet me know if you have any other questions. I'm always happy to help! :)
LOVE your patterns. Also enjoy the conversational way you do your instructions. Makes me feel like you're in the same room!
ReplyDeleteI want to make your Italian Wheat hat for my daughter for Christmas but the yarn I have is #5 (bulky). Do I need to alter the number of cast ons (this is for an adult) and the needle size? Thank you again for your website and your help.
Hi! I'm so glad to hear that you enjoy my patterns. :) And this hat would be interesting in a bulky yarn, I think - in order to make it, use the needle that gives you about 14 stitches per 4 inches in stockinette for the main body of the hat, and a needle 1 or 2 sizes below for the ribbing. Also, cast on 72, and things should work from there. :)
DeleteCould your pattern is mighty interesting and I would love to take a try at making it. What yarn should I use according to your CO instructions. Thanks Marge
ReplyDeleteHi Marge!
DeleteYou need a yarn that gives you a gauge of 18 stitches per four inches in stockinette on size US 8 needles. :)
Hi Gretchen
ReplyDeletePlease can you share this with straight needles.
Here you go! I may have reversed the cables in row 13 of the decrease - it was hard to visualize. You should be able to tell when you get there though, and fix it if need be.
DeleteCast on 110 stitches. Knit one inch in a k1, p1 ribbing. Now it's time to switch to your size 10 circular needle and continue like so:
Row 1 (right side): k1, * p1, k16, p1; rep from *, end k1
Row 2: p1, * k1, p6, ssp, (yo) twice, p2tog, p6, k1 *, end p1
Row 3: k1, * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, bc, p1 *, end k1
Row 4: p1, * k1, p6, yo, p2tog, ssp, yo, p6, k1*, end p1
Knit rows 1 - 4 until piece measures about 6" in length and you have just completed row 1 of the pattern. Now it's time to begin the decrease!
Row 1 (wrong side): p1, * k1, p2tog, p2, (ssp) twice, (yo) twice, (p2tog) twice, p2, ssp, k2, p6, ssp, (yo) twice, p2tog, p6, k1 *, end p1
Row 2: k1, * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc-2, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, bc-2, p1 *, end k1
Row 3: p1, * k1, p4, p2tog, ssp, p4, k2, p6, yo, p2tog, ssp, yo, p6, k1 *, end p1
Row 4: k1, * p1, k16, p2, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p1 *, end k1
Row 5: p1, * k1, p8, k2, p6, ssp, (yo) twice, p2tog, p6, k1 *, end p1
Row 6: k1, * p1, bc, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc, p2, fc-2, bc-2, p1 *, end k1
Row 7: p1, * k1, p2tog, p4, ssp, k2, p2tog, p2, ssp, yo, p2tog, ssp, yo, p2tog, p2, ssp, k1 *, end p1
Row 8: k1, * p1, k12, p2, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1 *, end k1
Row 9: p1, * k1, p2tog, ssp, k2, p4, ssp, (yo) twice, p2tog, p4, k1 *, end p1
Row 10: k1, * p1, bc-2, k1, knit into front of 1st yo, knit into back of 2nd yo, k1, fc-2, p2, fc-1, p1 *, end k1
Row 11: p1, * k1, p2tog, k2, p4, p2tog, ssp, p4, k1 *, end p1
Row 12: k1, * p1, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p1, p3tog *, end k1
Row 13: p1, * k2tog, slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, p2, p2 from cn, slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, p2, p2 from cn, k1 *, end p1
Row 14: k1, * p1, k2tog, ssk, k2tog, ssk, p1 *, end k1
Row 15: p1, * k1, p2tog, ssp, k1 *, end p1
Cut yarn and thread through final fourteen stitches. Pull tight, knot, and pull to interior of hat. Seam from bottom and tuck in ends.