Slouchy Baby-Cabled Stocking Hat

Slouchy Baby-Cabled Beanie.  To the stars.

All right!  So I had this yarn left over after finishing the Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat, and I wanted to make something that screamed '80s ski bunny, while also being versatile.  And hence this hat was born.  Basically, it's a hat with a little more give than your average beanie, which makes it perfect for multiple styles or big hair, and the pom pom is an optional accent.  I love the way this yarn's variegation knitted up in this pattern, too!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8

Hey look!  You can fold the edge up too, if you want!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 104 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 inches, and then you're going to switch patterns.  You'll need the following notation to proceed:

rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together

lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)

Now let's get to it!

Heart Headband

Heart Headband

As you may have guessed, I mostly knit this headband as a good way to get rid of some more of that skein of yarn I used for the Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers.  I also, admittedly, love hearts.  Finally, the adult version of this headband is intended for a head of about 22 inches in circumference; it would be easy to knit this pattern for a child by omitting 12 stitches, which would shave about 2 inches from the final circumference (and you'd cast on 84 stitches instead of 96).  And that's all I've got...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - maybe 1/3 skein?

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size #8

How it looks without the whole head-stretching-out aspect.

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (once again, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch. The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and yet again I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's in a circular needle either.  However, it's a pretty standard worsted weight, so any worsted weight yarn should work)

Cast on 96 (84) stitches, place marker, join in round.  Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words,

Row 1: * k1, p1; rep from *

Row 2: * p1, k1 *

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Twilled Stripe Arm Warmers

Okay, I bought this yarn a couple of years ago (I think my plan, at the time, was to knit a sock monkey out of it.  But then I knit two OTHER sock monkeys, got bored, and put my yarn in the closet).  Anyway, I've been looking for a good use for it ever since, because it is admittedly quite girly but a big enough gauge that it's never going to look dainty.  And while I considered doing fingerless gloves (with a thumb hole, you know), ultimately I decided that this pattern would look best without the disruption.  And I have to say - I love the pattern, and the way that the variegation knitted up in stripes.  With one less pattern repeat, this would also be an excellent design for little girls.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - just one skein, baby!

Needles: One set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in size 8

A close-up!  Dude, I love this pattern.

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (well, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch.  The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's and I can't spend the $$$ to buy a set.  Either way it worked)

Before we get started, let's take a moment to talk about sizing.  My forearms are about 8 inches in circumference and each iteration of this pattern (7 stitches per repeat) adds about an inch to the total circumference.  Therefore, if your forearms are one inch bigger, you can always add another set of 7 stitches (or if they're two inches bigger, two more sets, etc. - just remember that, if you choose to use this yarn or a similar one, the variegation won't knit up the exact same way).  Basically, this pattern is a deep rib, and you have lots of room to play.  So let's get to it!

Cast on 42 stitches (49, 56, etc.) and divide between 3 dpns in groups of 7 as evenly as possible.  Join in round.  If you cast on an even number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a k1, p1 ribbing.  Or, if you cast on an odd number of stitches, knit 1 inch in a p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 ribbing.

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

Tie-Closure Lace Trellis Cowl

I can't help it: I'm a sucker for a cotton yarn, even though they're heavy, and have a tendency to curl.  To combat this, I've knit another one-piece, open-work cowl which can be left unblocked and still looks pretty, especially with the I-cord ties.  And again, it's another good piece for spring, what with its rakish, rustic charm and all.  Yeah, I'm done...

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #3721 Ginseng - just one skein needed.

Needles: Straight or circular needle(s) in size 6, one set double pointed needles (dpn) in size 6 (I used 5's, but hey, that's what I've got!)

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (this will have a much looser gauge)

This cowl is knit in the Vertical Lace Trellis pattern from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.  However, as a note, I've written this pattern to add stitches to the work, which will change the appearance of the trellis slightly.  You will probably notice the change when you stop increasing, just fyi.  But let's get started!

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Two-Tone Marrowbone Hat

Okie dokie!  First of all.  The reason I started knitting this hat was to test my hypothesis that I could knit two of the beasts out of the same ball of yarn (since this is the same stuff I made the Twisted Check Hat out of).  And guess what?  It couldn't be done!  However, instead of going the boring route and buying yet another ball of the same color, I decided to switch it up and change colors, partially so that I wouldn't have to knit a THIRD hat out of the gray (I've got big plans for the blue, though, let me tell you).  Obviously, you wouldn't have to change colors to make this hat, if you didn't want to, or you could even stripe it every six rows, since if you look closely at the color change (there's a better picture below), the way the fabric tugs into the cables actually looks pretty good.  Or you could trim it with a crochet stitch on the bottom, if you wanted to tie the blue back in, or even add a tassel or a pom-pom of the gray.  So many options!  Any way you do it, I think this is a gorgeous texture for a hat.  So let's get this party started!

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - one skein, and #505 Caribbean blue - one skein

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles (dpns), also in size 8, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn

And... from the back!

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 inch

Now, before we begin the main pattern, which is adapted to the round from the Marrowbone Pattern from page 204 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, let's do a little notation note:

fc (front cross): slide 3 stitches to cn and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cn

fc2 (front cross 2): slide 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cn

fc1 (front cross 1): slide 1 stitch to cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cn

Calla Lily Cowl

Calla Lily Cowl
My three-year-old's opinion of the piece?  "It looks like a funny one!"

Ah, where to begin with this one!  Well, for starters, I've been lusting after this yarn for months now; it's hard to tell from this picture, but it has a slight metallic edge to it that makes it super fancy/sparkly/delicious.  When I finally bought it, however, I struggled a little with how to use it.  Since it's a cotton base, it's a bit dense and heavy, and I wanted to come up with a pattern that would show its prettiness without bogging down.  I also hate finishing, so I wanted to make it a one-piece knit.  Originally, I had planned to make a cabled necklace-type thing out of it, but after I began, I realized that my initial design wouldn't show the yarn off the way I wanted it to.  Which is when I decided to open it up.  Ultimately, the design reminds me of a calla lily more than anything (obviously, from the name!), and it's a nice, not-too-warm way to keep wearing your knit goods into the spring and summer.  This pattern also has very pretty dimensionality, as you can see from the photo at the bottom of the pattern.

Oh, and before I forget - I recommend reading this pattern all the way through before you begin, since there are multiple pattern changes, as well as the initial increases and the finishing decreases.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sunseeker (47% Cotton, 48% Acrylic, 5% Metallic Yarn; 237 yards [217 meters]/100 grams); #10 Blue Turquoise - just one skein needed.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles in size 4, and a straight or circular needle in size 4 if you so desire (for when you're done knitting in the round)


I don't know why I take pictures of the balls. 
I guess I like to.

Notions: Tapestry needle, 7/16" button, large darning needle, depending on button hole side

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

So let's get started!  To begin, cast on 3 stitches and divide evenly between 3 double pointed-needles, join in round.  By convention, we're going to call the needle with the first stitch dpn 1, the needle with the second stitch dpn 2, and the needle with the third stitch dpn 3.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: * kfb; rep from * (6 stitches)

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: * kfb, k1 * (9 stitches)

Twisted Check Hat

Twisted Check Hat

First things first: I know I show this hat on my little lady friend here, but I actually knit it for my husband.  Who looks pretty good in it.  But when I tried to get him to pose for the pictures, he refused to do anything but make weird faces and quips about being a Top Model.  So... little lady friend it is.  Besides that, it's a little difficult to tell from the pictures, but the way this yarn is variegated made cool zig-zags in the pattern.  Or in other words, it's a good, basic unisex hat.  I also suspect I could make two hats out of my one ball of yarn, but I have too many other projects to complete before I test that hypothesis ("Buddy, what's a hypothesis?" "It's an idea you can test!" - Dinosaur Train).  Where was I again?  Oh yeah, the hat.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pacific (40% Superwash Merino Wool, 60% Acrylic; 213 yards [195 meters]/100 grams); #500 Duo Tone - just one skein needed.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 8, one set double-pointed needles, also in size 8

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, join in round

Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 1.5"

The body of this hat is worked in Twisted Check Pattern, which you can find on page 117 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Rows 1 & 2: Knit

Gathered Mesh Cowl

Gathered Mesh Cowl

So here's the thing.  When I started knitting this piece, I intended to do it differently.  First, I was going to knit it in Star Rib Mesh, from page 196 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, which includes a direction to "slip 2 knitwise" (and even includes a special instruction on why you really, really need to slip 2 TOGETHER knitwise to accomplish the look).  Of course, I didn't do this.  I slipped one stitch knitwise, then slipped the second stitch knitwise, which creates an entirely different effect.  Then, of course, I liked it.  And decided to gather it.  Which resulted in the following.

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Sateen (100% Acrylic; 300.7 yards [275 meters]/100 grams); #24 Orange Poppy - another one skein masterpiece.

Once again, the kid wanted to help. 
Of course, he still refused to smile.

Needles: One 24" circular needle in size 4

Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, one 5/8" button

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches

Cast on 180 stitches, place marker, join in round.  Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words:

First row of seed stitch: k1, p1 around

2nd row: p1, k1 around

Now it's time for the main pattern!

Row 1: * yo, (sl 1 knitwise, sl 1 knitwise - k1 - p2sso), yo, k1; rep from *

Berry Swirl Hat



Berry Swirl Hat

And here's my second hat, which you will probably notice is in the exact same yarn as the Ripple Lattice Hat!  True story: I had two balls of the yarn.  Also, it's kind of fun to see how the same yarn knits in different designs, especially when that yarn is variegated, which always brings in an element of the unknown.  As far as this particular hat is concerned, the swirl effect is obviously a product of the variegation, so my recommendation if you're looking for a similar effect is to find a yarn that, in a ball, looks like it contains roughly the same amount of variegation.  In other words, not too much of a second color (see ball below).  And yet again, please see the Glossary if any of these terms are unfamiliar.  Otherwise, let's begin!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but this hat, like the other, only uses one skein.

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle



Yeah, it's the same picture as before!!!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

* k1, p1 * 1 inch in ribbing

The majority of this hat is knit in Berry Stitch, which I found in one of my favorite knitting books, or in other words on page 221 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns

Ripple Lattice Hat

Ripple Lattice Hat

All right!  So it's officially time to post my first hat, which I've named the "Ripple Lattice Hat" since it's both ripple-y and lattice-y.  Genius, I know.  Specs, recipe, and more pics below!  Oh, and quick note - if I use any terms or symbols that aren't familiar to you, please go to the Glossary!

Yarn: SMC Riana Color (50% New Wool, 45% Acrylic, 5% Viscose; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams); #5843 - don't know the color name, might be discontinued, but I only used one skein!!!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpn), also in size 9

Notions: Marker, tapestry needle, cable needle (cn) or extra dpn for cabling


My three-year-old REALLY wanted to hold
the ball for the picture!

Gauge: 19 stitches x 25 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Cast on 96 stitches, place marker, and join in a round

k1, p1, k1, p3 for one inch in ribbing

Rows 1 - 2: * k3, p3; rep from *

R 3: * k3, pass next 3 purled stitches to cable needle & hold in back, k3, p3 from cable needle, p3 *

R 4 – 5: * k6, p6 *