Zigzag Slouch Hat

Zigzag Slouch Hat
Pictured in size small

This is another one of those designs that first appeared in my mind half-formed and hazy, and then solidified as soon as I bought the yarn. And while I know I'm reusing some concepts here (I used the same stitch pattern and combination of a solid yarn and a variegated yarn in the Zigazig Ah Scarf), I think that the finished result is pretty and novel, from the faux icords running up the seam to the notched back design.

Oh, and some notes on sizing and design here - first off, I know that there's a fairly significant size difference between the small size (which fits up to about a 23" head) and the large size (which fits bigger ones - up to 26.5" at least). This is for two reasons - one, the design suits either a close-fitting or a loose-fitting wear, so it's not too finicky, and if you're borderline on sizes you can choose based on whether or not you want your hat to fit tightly or slouch (you can also choose a size based on your volume of hair!). And two, the stitch pattern is 24 stitches long, and, though one could create a medium size by only working 12 of the final 24-stitch repeat, it would no longer be symmetrical in the back, which compromises some of the hat's appeal. All of that being said, if you'd like a truly medium sized hat, you could always work the design on needles that give you a slightly different gauge - for instance, work the large size with needles that give you 26 inches per 4" instead of the given 24.

Speaking of symmetry and sizing, I would also like to mention that I successfully worked my entire hat on size 4 needles. However, the icord cast on is a little tight, and required blocking to relax it. If you'd prefer, you could work your icord cast on in a needle one size larger than the needle with which you work the rest of your hat. Then you will avoid any too-tight brim issues entirely!

Sizes: Teen/Adult Small (Adult Large)

Yarn: Lana Grossa Cool Wool Melange (100% Virgin Wool; 175 yards [160 meters]/50 grams); #115 - one skein (two skeins) (color A) and Lana Grossa Cool Wool Degrade (100% Virgin Wool; 175 yards [160 meters]/50 grams); #6002 - one skein (one skein) (color B)

A better look at the back,
faux icords and all!

Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 4, one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 4 (optional: dpns in size US 5 for icord cast on or a 24" circular in size US 4 if you're making the larger size of the hat)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 36" of scrap yarn, stitch marker

Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 4 needles

So let's make a hat! Using your color A yarn, and your size US 4 or 5 dpns, cast on 4 stitches loosely. Then we'll work an icord cast on, as follows:

Icord Row (always worked as a right-side row): kfb, k3; then, when you go to begin your next row, use your tapestry needle to thread the first of kfb stitches onto your piece of scrap yarn purlwise to hold for later

Knit this icord row until you're holding 127 (151) stitches on your scrap yarn. Kfb in your first stitch one final time, transfer the first stitch (of your kfb) to your scrap yarn, and then bind off your four icord stitches (which include the second stitch from your kfb). Then, transfer the 128 (152) held stitches from your scrap yarn and onto your circular needle (you can use a 24" if you're making the large size). Once you have all your stitches transferred, continue to use your color A yarn and work as follows. Note that you can pull the yarn tight behind your slipped stitches; this creates the icord look.

Row 1 (right side): knit

Row 2: slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in front (sl4-wyif), purl until you have 4 stitches left in row, sl4-wyif

Knit rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.75" (2") and you've just finished a wrong side row. Then proceed as follows:

Transition Row 1 (right side): using color A, knit until you have 1 stitch left in row, kfb, place marker, and join in round (129 stitches (153 stitches))

From here on out, the hat will be worked in the round so all rows will be right-side rows.

Transition Row 2: using color A, knit until you have 1 stitch left in round, p1

Complete these two transition rows, and then we'll begin our main pattern, which consists of Zebra Chevron from page 69 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns and those two faux icord ridges. It is important to remember that while you still want to pull your yarn tight when you slip your faux icord stitches, you will want to keep your slipped stitches LOOSE while working the rest of the pattern. So we'll continue as follows:

Row 1: using color B, slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back (sl4-wyib), * sl1-wyib, k2; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, k1

Row 2: using color B, sl4-wyib, * sl1-wyib, k2; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, p1

Row 3: using color A, k4, * k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k3, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k5

Row 4: using color A, k4, * k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k3, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k4, p1

Row 5: using color B, sl4-wyib, * k2, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib, k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times k1; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, k1

Row 6: using color B, sl4-wyib, * k2, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib, k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k1; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, p1

Row 7: using color A, k4, * sl1-wyib, k2; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k5

Row 8: using color A, k4, * sl1-wyib, k2; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k4, p1

Row 9: using color B, sl4-wyib, * k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k3, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, k1

Row 10: using color B, sl4-wyib, * k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k3, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, p1

Row 11: using color A, k4, * k2, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib, k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times k1; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k5

Row 12: using color A, k4 * k2, (sl1-wyib, k2) three times, sl1-wyib, k1, sl1-wyib, (k2, sl1-wyib) three times, k1; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in round, k4, p1

Knit rows 1 - 12 until your piece measures roughly 8.5" (9.5") long (don't measure along the back faux icord, as that will be slightly shorter) and you've just finished row 12 of the pattern (you can also quit after you finish row 6; if you do so you should swap the numbering of the rows below, such that rows 1 & 2 become rows 3 & 4 and rows 3 & 4 become rows 1 & 2). Clip the tail of your color B yarn and then work as follows. Note that you are now only working with your color A yarn.

Row 1: sl4-wyib, knit until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, k1

Row 2: sl4-wyib, knit until you have 5 stitches left in round, sl4-wyib, p1

Row 3: knit

Row 4: knit until you have 1 stitch left in round, p1

Knit rows 1 - 4 once (twice) and then transfer your work to your dpns. Now we'll work the decrease, as follows. Notice that your decrease row 4 is different for the two different sizes.

Decrease Row 1: * k2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left in row, end k1 (65 stitches (77 stitches))

Decrease Row 2: * k2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left in row, end k1 (33 stitches (39 stitches))

Decrease Row 3: * k2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left in row, end k1 (17 stitches (20 stitches))

Decrease Row 4 - size small: * k2tog; rep from * until you have 1 stitch left in row, end k1 (9 stitches)

Decrease Row 4 - size large: * k2tog * (10 stitches)

Complete decrease rows 1 - 4, clip yarn tail, and use tapestry needle to thread through final 9 (10) stitches. Thread tail to inside of hat, knot, and tuck in ends. Block, if desired.