Ruched Mitts

Ruched Mitts

I'm not exactly sure where to start with these guys, mostly because I don't actually want to start. After all, if I begin this post, I'm going to have to explain that my recent absence was due to repetitive stress issues with my forearms, that I'm doing much better now, thank you very much, and that I will probably be relaxing my regular posting schedule so that I can continue to do well.

And heck, since I don't want to go through all that, let's not - let's talk about these mitts instead! And the first thing I should mention in that realm is that I bought this yarn because I thought it would make an easy project - it's bulky weight, for goodness sake, and not even variegated! Unfortunately, I was wrong since it turns out that this particular fiber is one of those strong core/big halo types (you know what I mean, right? - there's a thick center and then lots of fuzz?). And those types of yarn are very pattern resistant, since lace knitting isn't well-defined in them and even cables look messy. Which is how I finally stumbled across the ruched design, which uses some well-placed eyelets and a scrap yarn i-cord to create some interest. So let's get started!

Sizes: small (medium; large) (the small will fit a hand roughly 7.5" - 8.5" in circumference at the base of the thumb, the medium up to 9.5", and the large goes up to about 10.5")

Yarn: Schachenmayr Fashion Nordic Dream (57% Viscose, 35% Wool, 8% Polyamide; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams); #00002 Natur Mélange - one skein (color A) & Malabrigo Worsted (100% Merino Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #12 Very Berry – roughly 20 yards (color B)

A better look at the ruching.
My five-year-old likes it.

Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 8

Notions: Tapestry needle

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches

Which brings us to the mitts! To begin, then, using your color A yarn, cast on 28 (32; 36) stitches loosely and distribute between 3 dpns as follows: 8 stitches on first needle, 12 stitches second needle, 8 stitches on third needle [(10; 12; 10); (12; 12; 12)]. Join in round. Then we'll move straight to our main pattern, as follows:

Rows 1 - 6: knit

Row 7: knit across first needle; k2, [k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk] twice, k2 from second needle; knit across third

Row 8: knit, working a (k1, p1) into each double yo 

Knit rows 1 - 8 five times. Then we'll set up our thumb gusset, as follows:

Set-up Gusset Row 1: m1r, knit remainder of round

Set-up Gusset Row 2: knit

Knit set-up gusset rows 1 & 2. Then we'll begin our proper gusset rows, like so:

Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 8 (10; 12) stitches remaining on first needle, m1r; then, knit across remainder of first needle and second needle; finally, k8 (10; 12) from third needle, m1l, and knit until end of round (the first time you knit this row you won't have any left to knit after that m1l)

Gusset Row 2: knit

Knit gusset rows 1 & 2 five (six; seven) times. Now you should have 14 (17; 20) on your first needle and 13 (16; 19) stitches on your third. Knit across first 6 (7; 8) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and final 5 (6; 7) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Rejoin work in round and knit approximately 2" (2.5"; 3") in stockinette. Bind off loosely.

And now that the mitt part is done, it's time to work on the thumb! With that goal in mind, transfer the 11 (13; 15) stitches held for thumb back onto your needles, making sure not to place the needle break between dpns at the thumb break. Knit around, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break. Knit around 4 (5; 5) more rows and bind off loosely. And now that your mitt is done, go ahead and use your color B yarn to cast on a 3-stitch i-cord. Work until cord measures roughly 23" and bind off loosely. Repeat for second mitt, tuck in ends, and, if desired, block! Oh, and lace and tie the i-cords as shown. :)