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| Floral Mesh Bonnet |
I can proudly state that this is my first-ever matching product; in fact, it goes with last week's design, the Floral Mesh Scarf. And while I haven't ever used the same stitch pattern week-to-week before, I just couldn't resist with this one since, as soon as I saw the scarf completed, I knew it had to have a bonnet. I also sized it for children through adults for a super-fun, multi-seasonal look that will fit most everyone in your family. Why? Well, 'cause they're all going to want one!
Sizes: Child's Small (Child's Large; Teen/Adult Small; Adult Large) (as far as the child's small and the child's large are concerned - think maybe 2 - 5 years for the small, 6 - 12 or so for the large)
Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Pantino (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic; 98 yards [90 meters]/50 grams); #0007 Egg Yolk (that color name is still made up) - 2 skeins
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| A close-up of the pattern. I left in the creepy eyes because I could. |
Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers
Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches
So let's make a hat, shall we? First, then, we'll start with the brim of this bonnet, which is knit back and forth. So, using your straight needles, cast on 84 (98; 112; 126) stitches loosely. Then we'll knit a few edging rows, as follows. Notice you'll be placing two stitch markers on your third edging row.
Edging Row 1 (right side): purl
Edging Row 2: knit
Edging Row 3: p8 (p11; p14; p17), place marker, p69 (p77; p85; p93), place marker, purl until end of row
And once these three edging rows are done, it's time to work in our Floral Mesh pattern, which is from 218 of Barbara G. Walker's A Fourth Treasury of Knitting Patterns, as well as some decreases. I have written two sets of instructions for this pattern - Set 1 has decreases every other right side row, Set 2 has decreases every right side row. Which sets you'll be knitting and how many depend on the size of the hat you're making. See below for details.
Child's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice
Child's Large - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once
Adult's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once
Adult's Large - Knit rows 1- 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 twice
Set 1:
Set 1 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them
Set 1 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 1 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 1 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 2:
Set 2 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them
Set 2 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 4: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Knit the given row combination for your size. At this point, you should have two stitches before your first marker and one after your second. It's also time to join this bad boy in the round. So, transfer work to your 16" circular needle, removing your markers when you do so (to be fair, I've been using my circulars the whole time, but if you are using straight needles than it's time to switch). Place marker, and join in round. Knit for 2" (2.25"; 2"; 2.25") in stockinette. Now we're ready to begin our decreases. Again, these differ slightly for the sizes, but only because you'll be beginning on a different row for each size. See below.
Child's Small - begin on decrease row 7
Child's Large - begin on decrease row 5
Adult Small - begin on decrease row 3
Adult Large - begin on decrease row 1
And the decrease rows themselves:
Decrease Row 1: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches)
Decrease Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, & 20: knit
Decrease Row 3: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 5: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches)
You may want to switch to your dpns about now...
Decrease Row 9: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches)
Decrease Row 13: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 15: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches)
Decrease Row 17: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches)
Decrease Row 19: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches)
Decrease Row 21: * k2tog * (8 stitches)
Knit your given start row through decrease row 21, clip yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Using your dpns, pick up 5 stitches along one of the bottom corners of hat, and work an i-cord until it measures 8" (9"; 10"; 11"). Bind off and repeat on other corner. Tuck in ends and block.
Love this version- it is beautiful~ Making it right now, thanks for the pattern!!
ReplyDeleteGreat to hear it! :) I hope it turns out beautifully. And please let me know if you have any questions.
DeleteHi there...just finished knitting your chevrons and cables hat....gorgeous and wonderfully written!..Thanks so much....Just wondering if you have a beanie type version of this pattern (Floral Mesh Bonnet ) for double knit wool (4mm needles)? Cheers
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteI do not currently have a beanie version of this hat, although it's something I've considered making, I'll let you know if I do! :)
That's wonderful...thank-you so much!
ReplyDeleteWhat weight of yarn is used for this hat , #4 or a finer yarn
ReplyDeleteIt is dk weight, so probably more of a #3! :)
DeleteIs it correct on edging row 3 to have 8 stitches on one side and 7 on the other( child small)?
ReplyDeleteYes, that's correct. Let me know if you have any more questions! :)
Deletethank-you so much!
ReplyDeleteKind + generous = Happy ever after
Glad you like it!!! :)
DeleteSimply wonderful
ReplyDeleteGlad you like it! I thought this was a pretty little pattern. :)
DeleteBeautifully made. And the color is so vibrant! Thank you for sharing your lovely design.
ReplyDeleteGlad you like it!!! :) And I love the color too...
DeleteHi there, I just finished!Made with white left over from another project. I will make this again.I have 3 grown daughters and 2 granddaughters....
ReplyDeleteYay, glad it worked out! :) I love the idea of white!!!
DeleteHi! Beautiful hat, thank you for sharing. I'm struggling with the sizing. I started with the adult small and am almost finished with the floral mesh section, but it seems too large. Can you tell me what size is in the picture, so I'll have a bit of a reference to make some adjustments?
ReplyDeleteHi! I made the adult small. I also achieved gauge, so if you're getting 17 stitches = 4 inches yours should be the same size. :)
DeleteI did actually make a swatch and match the gauge, which for me is a real challenge! Patience isn't always my strong suit, I just like to get going �� Thank you for the info, I will plan accordingly.
DeleteI understand; I'm also not patient, and usually design hats where gauge is less of an issue for that reason! Unfortunately stockinette is pretty sometimes so swatching isn't always avoidable. :)
ReplyDeleteSo, i began this lovely pattern and have completed the 1st 3 rows. But the 4th row (which is the 1st row of pattern #1, a purl row and on the "wrong" side) would seem to make the "curl" of the edging curl the wrong way? Did i miss something?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThe edging is just the first three rows, and it will indeed curl the other direction from the main pattern (so your first three rows will show a purl side on the right side; from then on out you'll have a knit side on your right side). Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Just found your hat and can't wait to get started. I'm just wondering if the ties are long enough to tie. I'll cast on a few more stitches if not. I have some lovely turquoise coloured aran that I got in Ireland a few years ago that will look great.
ReplyDeleteAh yes, the ties are a bit tricky because they get a bit long if they're functional... For that reason, I went with the minimum length that I considered able to tie, so you may want to make them a bit longer!
ReplyDeleteI'm in a cold climate so I'll add some length, thanks for your quick reply, I'm going to start it this aft. :)
DeleteSounds perfect! Let me know if you have any more questions! :)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi there! The ssk is a two-to-one decrease, as is the k2tog, and since you're performing one on each side things should stay even. :) Let me know if you have any other questions!
DeleteI'm knitting this now. In set one, row six, I noticed that there are 10 stitches prior to the marker in row 5 but in row six, it seems like we are only working over 9 of them. I have sub-markers set every 8 stitches (except for right before the two main markers) and if I only work 9 stitches, those will be off by one. I did notice that we go from 11 to 12 before the marker (row 5 to row 6). so am i just shifting that 8-stitch pattern over one? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi there! You will decrease the number of stitches on either end of this pattern ("outside" the markers). That's why the instructions are written flexibly, though - "ssk, knit until you reach marker", etc, rather than a stitch count. So I'm afraid I'm not really understanding what you're seeing that makes you think you're only working some of them, I guess! Can you clarify your question for me? :)
DeleteThank you for answering! BTW you have amazing patterns. I knit quite a bit, and totally understood your idea of not too easy, hard enough to make it interesting, and no, don't care to spend an endless time doing it. I make hats, neckwarners, legwarmers, wristlets, gotta try one of your hoods.
ReplyDeleteYes, I understand the decreases on the ends. This problem is "between" the markers. Set 1, Row 4 after you slip the first marker, k2, then work the 8-st pattern. Before the 2nd marker, you work the 8-stitch pattern with 3 st left, yo,ssk, k1, slip marker (still have 3 there). BUT in row six, when you slip the first marker, there are 2+ the 8-st pattern. YET the pattern says k1, yo, and work the 8-st pattern. However, that leaves an extra stitch not worked over that 8-st pattern. Right now I'm trying to just knit those first 2 st, no YO and work the pattern and see if that works. The pattern is just going all cock-eyed and doesn't look like diamonds. I've ripped it out 3 times now after working 18 rows or so.
I usually can figure it out, but I'm having trouble visualizing the pattern as I go. Not your fault. You've obviously been writing patterns a long time, and it's really pretty easy to follow. I'm just getting a st off between the markers sometimes. Thanks, maryb
Ah that makes so much more sense, I apologize for my misunderstanding! The trouble with this pattern is that it sort of "changes place", so your extra markers aren't always going to be accurate - that's why there are extra edge stitches in the first place (if they weren't required for the pattern, I wouldn't have them). In row 4, for instance, there's two extra stitches before the repeating pattern, and three after. In row 6, there's two before (the k1 and the yo), but four after, including a 3-to-1 decrease that makes up for that extra yo at the beginning. Essentially, the pattern moves over a stitch. So while it can be a great idea to place extra markers, as you have, in this case you'll probably need to be more flexible with them by moving them all one stitch over on row 6, starting after that yo, and then moving them back later.
DeleteHope that helps! :)
Yes, I kind of figured that the pattern was a little fluid. I use the markers because I'm so easily distracted, and they keep me from completely losing my place. But I could have slipped them over and back. Yes, I figured there was a reason for the extra stitches that I just wasn't quite snapping to. My pattern isn't quite right, but I can live with it--NOT. My husband told me, if you leave that, it'll eat at you like rust. He was right. So I ripped it out for the 4th time! The great thing about knitting is tinking removes all the evidence of the mistake--BOOM--Gone! I'll remember to slip the markers. I snapped to the fact that the stitches slid over, but I wasn't happy with what I was doing. Now I'll feel a little more confident to slide my markers around. Thanks so much for responding. Have a good week! If you're ever in Galveston TX let me know! I'll be happy to show you around! I'm a recognized Tourist Ambassador for the Island. ;) maryb
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry that you've had to redo it so many times, but hopefully now it will work out! :) And I've actually been to Galveston, once, many years ago (at least twenty!). I went ice skating, of all things. Anyway, it's a very kind offer, thank you. And I will keep my fingers crossed that the pattern works for you from here on out!!!
DeleteThe hat came out perfect to the stitch! I will just make a note that the repeats shift over a stitch 4-6. The only time I change the "extra" markers is on row six--I shift them over one stitch. They stay there the rest of the time. So I'm only moving them once per set. And like I said before: the great thing about knitting is there's no evidence of the mistakes! :)
ReplyDeleteThis is a terrific hat! I made it for my 82 yr old Aunt Braunda, and I wanted something like an earflap hat--but this is nicer. Still works as a good barn hat though. I think she will love it! She doesn't knit. She crochets, but mostly doilies and things like that. She's always excited when I make her something. This year she hit the grand prize. I made her leggings, a neckwarmer, wristlets, and a hat! She lives in Massachusetts, and she struggles to keep her house warm, so I try to make her things to keep her warm.
You must have visited Moody Gardens to ice skate. They still do that in the winter. They host a big ice festival now with ice sculptures inside a tent that they keep at 9 degrees F.
We have lived here for almost 20 years now and love the beach lifestyle!
Thanks again for all your help--and your patterns! Have a Great and Brilliant Day! maryb
Oh perfect, I'm so glad it worked out for you. I'm sure your aunt will love it! And I was definitely there in December, so that sounds right. :)
DeleteCan you please share the pattern on straight needles
DeleteHere you go! The pattern is too long so I've had to put it in two comments.
DeleteUsing your straight needles, cast on 84 (98; 112; 126) stitches loosely. Then we'll knit a few edging rows, as follows. Notice you'll be placing two stitch markers on your third edging row.
Edging Row 1 (right side): purl
Edging Row 2: knit
Edging Row 3: p8 (p11; p14; p17), place marker, p69 (p77; p85; p93), place marker, purl until end of row
And once these three edging rows are done, it's time to work in our Floral Mesh pattern as well as some decreases. I have written two sets of instructions for this pattern - Set 1 has decreases every other right side row, Set 2 has decreases every right side row. Which sets you'll be knitting and how many depend on the size of the hat you're making. See below for details.
Child's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice
Child's Large - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once
Adult's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once
Adult's Large - Knit rows 1- 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 twice
Set 1:
Set 1 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them
Set 1 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 1 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 1 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 1 Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until end of row
Set 2:
DeleteSet 2 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them
Set 2 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 4: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Set 2 Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches)
Knit the given row combination for your size. At this point, you should have two stitches before your first marker and one after your second. Remove markers and knit for 2" (2.25"; 2"; 2.25") in stockinette, ending with a wrong side row. Now we're ready to begin our decreases. Again, these differ slightly for the sizes, but only because you'll be beginning on a different row for each size. See below.
Child's Small - begin on decrease row 7
Child's Large - begin on decrease row 5
Adult Small - begin on decrease row 3
Adult Large - begin on decrease row 1
And the decrease rows themselves:
Decrease Row 1 (right side): * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches)
Decrease Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, & 20: purl
Decrease Row 3: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches)
Decrease Row 5: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches)
Decrease Row 7: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches)
You may want to switch to your dpns about now...
Decrease Row 9: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches)
Decrease Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches)
Decrease Row 13: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches)
Decrease Row 15: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches)
Decrease Row 17: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches)
Decrease Row 19: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches)
Decrease Row 21: * k2tog * (8 stitches)
Knit your given start row through decrease row 21, clip yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Seam from beginning of stockinette section up to end of decrease. Then, using your dpns, pick up 5 stitches along one of the bottom corners of hat, and work an i-cord until it measures 8" (9"; 10"; 11"). Bind off and repeat on other corner. Tuck in ends and block.
I am a loom knitter, is there anywhere I can get loom knit instruction? Appreciate your help.
ReplyDeleteHi there! Unfortunately I know absolutely nothing about loom knitting. Wish I could help!
DeleteHi, I'm a beginner and I think I am in over my head. Is there a video tutorial for the floral part of the pattern? Thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteHi there! I'm sorry, I never made a video and I can't knit anymore so it's too late now! Sorry I can't be more help!
DeleteI'm so sorry to hear that you can't knit anymore. No worries about the video. Thank you so much for sharing your patterns!
DeleteI’d like to knit it in stockinette only, is there such a pattern? Or is there a chart for the lace?
ReplyDeleteLovely pattern!
Hi! Do you mean that you would like to knit the whole pattern flat rather than in the round? If so, you can find the instructions for that in the comments above! :)
Delete