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| Staghorn Fingerless Gloves, with tweeting bird, to complete the natural vibe |
Well, I'm still picking away at the same skein of yarn that I used for the Razor Shell Fingerless Gloves, and I'm still digging the results (and amazingly, even after finishing these bad boys, I think I'm still going to be able to put together a two-color cowl with the rest of my single skein). Anyway, this pair of fingerless gloves uses a basic stockinette and a pretty cable to create a bit of interest in the thumbs. And it's still such a lover-ly green!
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| Just one hand. It looks lonely, doesn't it? |
Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine (50% Superwash Wool, 20% Super Fine Alpaca, 30% Nylon; 433 yards [400 meters]/100 grams); #12177 Kaffir Mix - one skein
Needles: One set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size 2, one set of dpns in size 1, cable needle (cn)
Notions: Tapestry needle
Gauge: 30 stitches = 4 inches
Using your size 1 needles, cast on 56 (66) stitches loosely, and distribute between your three double pointed needles as follows: 20 stitches on your first needle, 16 stitches on your second needle, and 20 stitches on your third needle (for larger size: 20 stitches on you first needle, 26 stitches on your second needle, and 20 stitches on your third needle). Join in round. Then, we'll knit the following ribbing row:
Ribbing Row: * k1, p1 *
Knit this row 4 times, at which point we'll switch to our size 2 needles and our main pattern, which incorporates the Staghorn Cable from page 251 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. We'll need the following notation:
fc (front cross): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cn
bc (back cross): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cn
And then we'll proceed as follows (both sizes):
Rows 1, 3 & 5: k8, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k8
Row 2: fc, k4, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k4, bc
Row 4: k2, fc, k2, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k2, bc, k2
Row 6: k4, fc, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, bc, k4
Knit rows 1 - 6 six times. And now, it's time to begin gusseting in the thumb. So let's proceed as follows (both sizes):
Rows 1, 3 & 5: knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle, m1r, k8, p2, k10, knit across second needle, k10 from third needle, p2, k8, m1l, knit until end of round (and yes, this means that you won't be knitting at all before adding a stitch on your first repeat of this instruction)
Row 2: knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle, fc, k4, p2, k10, knit across second needle, k10 from third needle, p2, k4, bc, knit until end of round
Row 4: knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle, k2, fc, k2, p2, k10, knit across second needle, k10 from third needle, p2, k2, bc, knit until end of round
Row 6: knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle, k4, fc, p2, k10, knit across second needle, k10 from third needle, p2, bc, knit until end of round
Work rows 1 - 6 three times (for larger size, work rows 1 - 6 three times, and then work rows 1 - 2 once more). At this point, you should have 29 (30) stitches on your first and last needles. Knit across first 9 (10) stitches on your first needle and then transfer these 9 (10) stitches and the final 9 (10) stitches on your third needle to a scrap piece of yarn, to hold for working later as the thumb. And now, we'll resume our original pattern, joining the mitt back in the round at the thumb break. I've copied the pattern below again even though there are no changes. Naturally, that means it's still the same for both sizes, although you'll be beginning with row 3 of the pattern if you're making the larger size:
Rows 1, 3 & 5: k8, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k8
Row 2: fc, k4, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k4, bc
Row 4: k2, fc, k2, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, k2, bc, k2
Row 6: k4, fc, p2, knit until there are 10 stitches left in round, p2, bc, k4
Knit rows 1 - 6 three times, and then knit row 1 once more (I think this should be perfectly sufficient for both sizes. Feel free to knit a few less or a few more rows, depending on your personal preference). Switch to your size 1 needles, and then work four rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing pattern. And then, using your size 2 dpns, pick up your thumb stitches again, taking care not to put a seam where the break in the stitches occurs (where you rejoined your glove in the round after removing the thumb stitches from your dpns). Knit around, picking up two extra stitches at the break, and completing 5 knit rows in total. Switch to your size 1 needles and knit two more rounds. Bind off loosely, and tuck in ends. Make another.
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| Photobombed by my two-year-old. But it gives nice size perspective... |
Lovely pattern...thank you.
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you like it!
DeleteHi, Love the pattern, would love to complete it. I read all the replies, sorry to say I'm more confused about the increases for the thumb. Row 1 1st needle, k8, p2, then increase? the increase isn't in the cable area...then on the 3rd needle, knit 10, then increase?
DeleteThank you
Hi there! The increase is the first stitch you make - the instructions say to knit until there are 20 stitches left on the needle, and since you start with 20, that means you won't knit any before your first increase. Obviously the instructions will have more meaning when you get to that row again. :) Let me know if you have any other questions!
DeleteOh, and the second increase is also at the very end of the round, on the first repeat of the rows at least!
DeleteThese are beautiful! I'll have to have a go.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to hear you like them! And please, let me know if you have any questions!
DeleteCan I use circular needles instead of double pointed?
ReplyDeleteHi Monica! The smallest circular needle I know of is 9", which is probably too large to work these gloves (and definitely too small to work the thumbs). There is a technique to use two circulars instead of dpns, however. Here's a link: http://www.weebleknits.net/twocirculars.html
DeleteHope that helps! :)
Another person suggested the magic loop.... here's a link to a video:
Deletehttp://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop
I think you will find it is the "throes" of winter or was that a play on words since it is a knitting column?
ReplyDeleteI do have a tendency to pun, but that wasn't one I made on purpose. Oops! :)
DeleteYou could use the magic loop on one circular needle
ReplyDeleteGreat suggestion. Thanks!
DeleteHello, first, thank you for a lovely free pattern! It looks wonderful and I'm ready to cast on!
ReplyDeleteI have a silly question... is there no Left or Right mitten to this pattern, in other words, are they knitted exactly the same way, thumb and all? Since there was only instruction to 'make another'! (only had one other experience with mittens, sort of a newbie) Thank you!
Hello!
DeleteFirst of all, there are no silly questions, only silly... I think I forgot how that saying goes :) And secondly, you are correct that they are exactly the same! That's one of the benefits of this pattern :)
Well, I'm silly too! ke ke ke
DeleteAnd thank you for such a record time lightning fast response! Jimmy John's got nothing on you!
I appreciate you! =)
Maggie
Ha! Yes, knitting responses so fast you'll freak! :)
DeleteHI!! :)
ReplyDeleteI am stuck on the thumb gusset instructions. So I’ve already done rows 1-6 once and will repeat this section tonight. When I was starting it last night, it seemed odd to me. So I followed your instructions in the first part : Needle 1= 20 stitches, Needle 2= 16 stitches, Needle 3= 20 stitches. But when I get to the thumb gusset, it seems to not follow that after a while? Should I just keep going and cross my fingers? For example: Row 1 on thumb gusset says to knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle (so that means to knit all 20 stitches on my first needle right, since that’s all I have there?) Then on the second needle is where I begin to M1r, K8, P2, and knit the rest of second needle? Then on third needle still on row 1 of thumb gusset, I knit the first 10 stitches and do the p2, k8, m1l? The problem I ran into here is that I wasn’t sure what it meant by ”and yes, this means that you won’t be knitting at all before adding a stitch on your first repeat of this instruction”. My m1l begins on the first needle again. So do I keep going with row 2 now?
Should I be concerned that the fc beginning in row 2 does not align with where it was before the thumb gusset?
LOL Thanks for helping me with my madness.
Hi there!
DeleteYup, it definitely sounds like you're a little bit confused. :) So, when it says "knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle," the idea is that you'll be adding stitches to the right of those 20 stitches, i.e., at the row break. So the first time you come across this instruction, you won't knit at all (since you only have 20 stitches already), and you'll immediately do the m1r and then the cable should line up with what you've already knit. Then you'll knit across the second needle, exactly as you have been doing. Finally, when you get to the third needle, you'll be adding your stitches at the very end - next to your new stitches from the first needle, and after that second half of the cable. Your cabling should always line up with the cabling you already have. Let me know if you need any more help, or if that's unclear! :)
OK- Maybe I get it more now but not really? I'll have a frog the 6 rows I did last night, DEFINITELY LOL. I swear I thought I was intelligent at knitting after I learned to turn the heel of socks... but this. I'm struggling bad.
DeleteSo, beginning where thumb gusset instructions begin:
I already have 20 stitches on needle 1 when I begin. You're saying, when row 1 begins on needle 1, don't start knitting. Immediately do the M1R, K8, P2? So if I do that, I will have 12 stitches on my right needle, yeah? So the remaining 8 stitches on my left needle on needle 1, I just knit? (First area I am confused with because if I do just want I stated, the instructions tell me to begin knitting across the second needle). I think it is the 1st needle instructions that might be throwing me off.
What does this now mean for row 2, 4, and 6 with the "knit until there are 20 stitches left on first needle", if the first needle has more than 20 stitches now?
I can't stop laughing at myself. I'm sure these instructions are easier than how I am interpreting them.....................! Thank you again.
Ha! What's funny about this is that you're exactly right - these rows are missing a direction to k10 from the first needle - but you're the first person who's noticed. I guess you're just the most conscientious knitter who's run across them. :) Anyway, I updated the instructions, and they should make more sense. If you are still confused about those needle 1 directions let me know. As far as rows 2, 4, & 6 are concerned - the reason the instructions are written as they are is so that I don't have to write different instructions for every row of the gusset. So the first time you knit row 2, for instance, there will be 21 stitches on your needle, so you'll only knit 1 before going into the cable pattern. The next time, there will be 24 stitches, so you'll have to k4 before the cable. The only purpose of this instruction at all is to make sure the cables continue to line up, while adding those thumb stitches between them. When the gusset is done, you'll move the thumb stitches and then continue the glove exactly as it first began. Is it making any more sense now?
DeleteHa!! Thank you so much. The revised instructions and your clarification makes complete sense now. I'll know how to redo it tonight!!
ReplyDeleteOh good! I apologize for the confusion. Let me know if you have any other questions. :)
DeleteI have noticed that you don't include the yarn weight either by number or gauge in your patterns. I have made two of your fingerless glove patterns and have guessed at yarn weight. I did the lace cable in a 4-worsted weight and the lizard people in a 3-light weight. I like the results I got on each, but think I could have done the lizard people one in a 4 rather than a 3 to achieve the look of yours. I do enjoy the patterns you display though and will continue using them. I taught myself to knit a year ago and and going full steam ahead. I have even created a couple of my own patterns for fingerless mitts. I did learn to crochet at age 10 though so maybe that is why I have picked this up so quickly.
ReplyDeleteHi there! I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying knitting, and my patterns. :) I do include gauge and a general size category, however - the gauge comes after the information for yarn, needles, and notions, and the size category is tagged at the bottom of the post. Typically I use the American categorizations (i.e. worsted or dk), but I have begun to include the numerical categorization as well if it is provided on the label. I am also always happy to answer any questions you may have, including gauge ones! :)
DeleteThank you for the reply! I have noticed that the brands you use are not ones I am familiar with or that I can purchase from the stores here in Michigan and having the weight helps me find comparable yarns in other brands. I will try to pay better attention when picking out patterns! Please keep posting some wonderful work!
DeleteOf course, let me know if you have any more questions! :)
DeleteHi Gretchen, I LOVE this pattern! I was looking for an elegant look with a modern embellishment and this fits the bill. Here's my problem: The yarn I purchased (before looking at patterns, of course!) is an Aran weight. Is there any way to convert this to size 8 needles or is that just way too crazY?
ReplyDeleteHmmm, that's a good question. Of course you CAN convert the pattern, and if you want to, I'm happy to help! However, I think you'd probably want to swatch the cable for gauge since heavier-weight yarns tend to compress even more when they're cabled, and you presumably would like the gloves to fit. :)
DeleteThe other thing to consider is just the look, of course. The cable will stretch even further across your hands in that heavy of a yarn, and won't have the same delicate look... anyway, just food for thought!
Let me know if you're interested in adapting the pattern, and how wide your cable comes out, if you are interested and need help! :)
Hi - I have knitted several of these, usually only one for myself though, because I have arthritis in my left hand & the warmth of the wool helps a lot. One thing I find is that the lovely cable is hidden in a way by being on the "thumbside" so to speak - so I am going to move the cable to the other side next time. You have a marvellous site - I am half done the "Lance" hat as we speak. Thank you for all the pretty patterns & your generosity. Helen.
ReplyDeleteHi Helen! I'm glad to hear you're enjoying my site, and this pattern in particular. I'm sure they'll turn out very well when you switch the cable!!! :)
DeleteHi, what a great looking pattern! I have an issue, I did read the above situation regarding the gusset. So, I'm just on row 4 and wonder if it's the same situation. I already have 20 stitches on my first needle, so I go to the next instruction? k2, fc, k2...
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteThat's true for row 1, but by the time you reach row 4 for the first time you should have 21 stitches on your first needle, so you should need to k1 before you continue on. :)
Hi, me again. So, I've knit rows 1-6 three times and it's looking really nice. I'm making the smaller size. I don't understand the next set of instructions: You should have 29 stitches on your first and third needle. I've got 40. (The first needle started with 20 stitches, 16 for the second needle and 20 for the third, for a total of 56. I haven't done any decreases.
ReplyDeleteHi again!
DeleteI'm sorry, I just looked at the pattern again and realized that the increases occur on 1, 3, and 5 of the gusset rows of the pattern, so my previous reply was wrong - you should have knit two stitches before continuing with row 4. Otherwise, however, you should be adding three stitches on your first needle for every repeat of the gusset rows, and three on your last needle. So after three repeats, you should have added 9 stitches to both needles, for a total of 29 on each. I'm not exactly sure how you could have gotten to 40... The m1r and the m1l are the only increases in these rows. Sorry I can't be more helpful, but I'm not sure what's going wrong!
Where on row 4 does it say to increase stitches?
ReplyDeleteThere are no increases on rows 2, 4, or 6 of the gusset. :)
DeleteHi. Could we download the pattern?
ReplyDeleteIf you use the green printfriendly button under the pictures you should be able to download it as a PDF. :)
Delete