Heart Headband |
Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9860 Jelly Bean - maybe 1/3 skein?
Needles: One 16" circular needle in size #8
How it looks without the whole head-stretching-out aspect. |
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (once again, I kinda made that up and I didn't knit a test swatch. The label says that 5 stitches = 1 inch on US 7 needles, and yet again I'm using 8's since I don't have 7's in a circular needle either. However, it's a pretty standard worsted weight, so any worsted weight yarn should work)
Cast on 96 (84) stitches, place marker, join in round. Knit two rows in seed stitch, or in other words,
Row 1: * k1, p1; rep from *
Row 2: * p1, k1 *
Now it's time to move on to the heart pattern, which is basically the Knit-Twist Heart Panel found on page 156 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. As a quick note:
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
m1 (make 1): insert needle from behind under the running thread and lift thread onto the left hand needle; knit one stitch into the back of it
And now the pattern!
Row 1 (and every odd row): * p1, k10, p1; rep from *
Row 2: * p1, k3, rt, lt, k3, p1 *
Row 4: * p1, k2, rt, k2, lt, k2, p1 *
Row 6: * p1, k1, rt, k4, lt, k1, p1 *
Row 8: * p1, rt, k6, lt, p1 *
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 12: * p1, lt, rt, k2, lt, rt, p1 *
Row 14: * p1, k1, m1, k2tog-b, k4, k2tog, m1, k1, p1 *
Row 15: * p1, k10, p1 *
Knit rows 1 - 15 once through, then knit two rows in seed stitch. Bind off loosely, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purled stitches. Tuck in ends.
Is there a way to knit this on straight needles so I can add a button closure?
ReplyDeleteHi Gail!
DeleteAbsolutely. It will still be knit bottom up, but it won't be any trouble to convert. Just tell me what you need - whether it's just the stitch pattern converted, or the button ends added as well. :)
I need both of those things. I assume it will be knit like the around we go headband. I'd like to either have a space at either end that doesn't interfere with the hearts or have half of the heart on either side that would match up when buttoned. I have heart shaped buttons that would work perfectly.
DeleteIf it's knit like the Around We Go Headband, so side-to-side rather than bottom up, the hearts will travel around sideways rather than right side up. Is that what you'd prefer? And I think it would be best if the button closure didn't interfere with the heart design, but just happened in the purled stitches at the ends. Anyway, let me know what you think about that hearts, and then we can get it converted!
DeleteI will knit this bottom up. I'll have to get longer needles because I don't think my little dpns are going to cut it. Yes some purl stitches on either side so as not to interfere with the hearts would work for me.
DeletePerfect! And I apologize, I thought that was all of my questions, but it's not. Final one: what size are your buttons? I know they're heart-shaped, but they probably still have a size designation, I would imagine. I just need to know how big of holes they need!!!
DeleteThey are 4 stitches across the widest part.
DeleteCan you give me an inch or a centimeter measurement? I just don't want to make the holes too loose!
DeleteThey are just slightly over a half inch.
ReplyDeleteI have two buttons I would like to affix to it (If that helps).
ReplyDeleteThey are also about 1 inch total height. Sorry for any confusion.
ReplyDeleteHi again! Just to make sure you realize - this headband is only about 3" tall to begin with, so those buttons will be pretty big. And I'm sorry but it's been a crazy day and I might not get to this until tomorrow. Anyway, I apologize. I will get the revised pattern to you as soon as I can. :)
DeleteI realize that now. I managed to find buttons that are a half inch top to bottom. Take your time. I'm working on another project that you were kind enough to alter for me and I'm hoping I haven't added to the craziness of the day. :)
DeleteGreat, I think those will be much more suitable! :) And no worries - the day was definitely not your fault. Anyway, I'll work on this. Happy knitting!
DeleteHi again! I got this done but I don't have a chance to doublecheck it. If anything seems wonky, please let me know!
DeleteCast on 102 (90) stitches. Then knit the following two rows:
Row 1 (wrong side): k4, * k1, p1; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row, k4
Row 2: p4, * p1, k1; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left in row, k4
Now it's time to move on to the heart pattern. As a quick note:
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right)
m1 (make 1): insert needle from behind under the running thread and lift thread onto the left hand needle; knit one stitch into the back of it
And now the pattern!
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, & 15 (wrong side): k3, * k1, p10, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, k3
Row 2: p3, * p1, k3, rt, lt, k3, p1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, p3
Row 3: k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, * p10, k2; rep from * until you have 14 stitches left in row, p10, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk
Row 4: p1, (k1, p1) in yo, * p1, k2, rt, k2, lt, k2, p1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, (k1, p1) in yo, p1
Row 6: p3, * p1, k1, rt, k4, lt, k1, p1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, p3
Row 8: p3, * p1, rt, k6, lt, p1 *
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 12: p3, * p1, lt, rt, k2, lt, rt, p1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, p3
Row 13: k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, * p10, k2; rep from * until you have 14 stitches left in row, p10, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk
Row 14: p1, (k1, p1) in yo, * p1, k1, m1, k2tog-b, k4, k2tog, m1, k1, p1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row, (k1, p1) in yo, p1
Knit rows 1 - 15 once through, then knit rows 2 & 1 again (you’ll be reversing the order). Bind off loosely, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purled stitches. Attach buttons to line up with buttonholes. Tuck in ends.
I started this but I'm curious about row 3 being listed two different ways. If I'm to follow row 3 with the yo, would I knit the the 2 purl stitches together?
ReplyDeleteScratch that. I figured it out. The wrong side row listing shouldn't have row 3. I adjusted and it's fine now. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat! I love it when people solve their own questions. :) Let me know if you have any more!
DeleteSorry after I asked I realized the answer. :)
ReplyDeleteI do wonder what this would look like in a scarf. My nieces love the headband, though they wear it as an ear warmer.
Glad to hear they like it! And I imagine it would make a super duper adorable scarf - let me know if you want to make one and need conversion suggestions! :)
Delete